Air pressure Pffffft at hit?

K

kjt1010

Guest
I figure the dumbest questions are the ones you don't ask so here goes...New to all of this, have an Iwata HP-CS, regulated at 35lbs with a mac valve and separator in line. When I dial the pressure down to like 15-20lbs, I get an initial hard hit of air that sometimes throws a splatter but is definitely NOT something I want near the piece I am working on because it would be a big splat. Do I have something setup wrong. Needle and tip are clean. California compressor.
 
Almost sounds like your turning the air off before the paint, this would spray out when you next engages the paint!
Other than that burst of air sounds weird
 
Almost sounds like your turning the air off before the paint, this would spray out when you next engages the paint!
Other than that burst of air sounds weird
No, this is even before I pull back. I'll dial the MAC valve down and hit the air to where I want it to be. Pause for a few seconds, hit it again, and on the initial hit, it is much harder than the pressure is set to. Hard enough for me to ask WTF is going on.
 
Do this when using your brush....trigger down for air, back for paint, forward to stop paint, and then up to stop air. You do not need to stop air all the time. That splat of paint is what is deposited on the needle if you stop air before stopping paint.
That burst of air at the beginning of pushing trigger down is what has been built up in your lines. Set your air pressure while holding air on on the brush.
Never start air over your work and always to the side
 
Is the MAC valve between the water trap and gun or is the trap between the valve and gun? If it is the latter the it is because although you limit the air to 15-20psi, it build up in the trap and only when you release it does it return to what it should be. If the trap is before the valve air can build up as much as it likes, the valve will cut it down.
 
Firstly we like newcomers to go to the intro section and say hi, let us know where you call home, what got you started , what your interest is with Airbrush eg: lures, T-shirt’s, vehicles, RC , fine art etc
We have pretty much all the bases covered so whatever your interest I’m sure we’ll be able to help you on your journey.

As for your problem... what paint are you using ? Are you reducing it, if so with what and at what ratio.
Your paint may be to thick and clogging the nozzle... and as for the whole ‘Airbrush is clean’ statement .... well I think we have all said that before only to find it’s not quite as clean as it should be lol
 
This is what I'm talking about.

View attachment 55029

I have mine just as your second picture, or the one the says "wrong" :) But I don't have a choice, I bought a Harder & Steenbeck hose with a combined MAC and quick release set permanently installed on the hose so my trap has to go between that and the brush.

I also have a California Air type compressor and also notice that little burst of air when first pressing for air, but I'ts not a problem, as suggested above I always put the air on before going near my work, even then and I'm sure many others do this, I have piece scrap paper next to my work that I use to test the brush on also after colour changes and even adjustments in pressure, I wouldn't trust even the most reliable of brushes to not want to give the occasional splat here and there, but these are all just habits we all learn as we go on, I even pick off tip dry when there is none:) not necessary but not a bad habit either:)
 
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Firstly we like newcomers to go to the intro section and say hi, let us know where you call home, what got you started , what your interest is with Airbrush eg: lures, T-shirt’s, vehicles, RC , fine art etc
We have pretty much all the bases covered so whatever your interest I’m sure we’ll be able to help you on your journey.

As for your problem... what paint are you using ? Are you reducing it, if so with what and at what ratio.
Your paint may be to thick and clogging the nozzle... and as for the whole ‘Airbrush is clean’ statement .... well I think we have all said that before only to find it’s not quite as clean as it should be lol
Done...thanks! Actually thought I had done this already but evidently not.
 
From your intro thread, you say you are using
"Creatix wicked and regular paint with some Com Air "

Createx wicked it is recommended to be used at 30+psi and a reduction with 4012 at around 10-20%. If you want to lower your pressure you will need to reduce your paint more to allow good flow.

Com Art can be used straight out of the bottle reduced with water if needed,

"regular paint" could be anything - so its hard to advise on that one :)
 
From your intro thread, you say you are using
"Creatix wicked and regular paint with some Com Air "

Createx wicked it is recommended to be used at 30+psi and a reduction with 4012 at around 10-20%. If you want to lower your pressure you will need to reduce your paint more to allow good flow.

Com Art can be used straight out of the bottle reduced with water if needed,

"regular paint" could be anything - so its hard to advise on that one :)
I was referring to Creatix paint...non wicked.
 
'Createx acrylic paint' isnt designed for airbrush use.
'Createx airbrush colors' are designed for an airbrush, primarily for textiles, but can be used for hard surface plastics.
Add a minimum of 10-20% of 4012 reducer to enable proper viscosity.
Add 4030 Mix additive to Createx Airbrush Colors for improved spray performance and adhesion on plastic, vinyl and application onto hard-surfaces, then add the 4012 as above.
I'm confident you are suffering from massive headspins trying to figure out which series of paint you should be using..... Join the club, we all had headspins when we first started using Createx, some of us still do lol

This is why i asked so many questions to try and find out exactly what paint you were using :)

Dont make the mistake of thinning Createx (of any series) with water, it wont work reliably, its a water bourne product and contains minimal amounts of mild solvents.
 
If your compressors regulator has a moisture trap i'm about 98% sure you can dispense with the inline trap, ohio is not exactly a tropical rainforest.
 
'Createx acrylic paint' isnt designed for airbrush use.
'Createx airbrush colors' are designed for an airbrush, primarily for textiles, but can be used for hard surface plastics.
Add a minimum of 10-20% of 4012 reducer to enable proper viscosity.
Add 4030 Mix additive to Createx Airbrush Colors for improved spray performance and adhesion on plastic, vinyl and application onto hard-surfaces, then add the 4012 as above.
I'm confident you are suffering from massive headspins trying to figure out which series of paint you should be using..... Join the club, we all had headspins when we first started using Createx, some of us still do lol

This is why i asked so many questions to try and find out exactly what paint you were using :)

Dont make the mistake of thinning Createx (of any series) with water, it wont work reliably, its a water bourne product and contains minimal amounts of mild solvents.

Do I add it directly to bottle or just in the cup? I picked up some Com-Art and really like the way it sprays. Way less tip dry even on a detail pen. What other types of paints are you guys spraying? I am messing around/practicing with stencils and line drawing on paper now just to get used to the brush. My goal is for lure painting.
 
Personally I’d suggest using the com art until you get a feel for the brush, the control required and the psi etc. once you know how things should work then you can use the wicked for the lures. You add the reducer to the cup, not to the bottle. You can either use a cocktail stick to mix in the cup or backflush... just keep it away from your artwork if you’re not using a lid :)
 
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