troubleshooting

Yea I saw that video too. I might order some from usaairbrush.com and give a shot. Has anyone ever used a dehumidifier in the garage while airbrushing and did it work?

Don't need a dehumidifier while airbrushing. Since you are using waterbased paints, that would dry the paint faster and create more tip dry. You could use it while trying to cure the paint. Humidity is waterbased friendly and can be used to your advantage. Drier climates won't experience same results. This is what I have found by warming bottles of waterbased paints before mixing and spraying them. Water is not a great pigment carrier by any means and some heat or humidity added to the equation will help the paint emulsify better.

My air pressure was set on 35psi turned it down to about 20psi and is smoother. Not getting as much splatter

Now when you say splatter, do you mean grainy spray and chunks flying out, or when it hits the surface it is real liquidy and doesn't want to stay and runs.

Liquid and runs. I have a inline filter too.

Sounds like you have it too over reduced. Thicken your paint or lower air pressure more. For detail work most of us work in the 10-15psi range.

Welcome! If you have it over reduced try kicking it down as low as 5 psi and up to 10 psi. But this is where touch comes in to play and is mostly for detailing. The thicker the paint the more pressure is need to atomize it correctly. Also it depends on how close and far away you are from your substrate. Like Shadow said we all have our ways of going about it so finding the right mixture in your environment is something you will have to play with to find a happy medium. Its just a kink in the game that we all have to figure out for what works best for how we paint and our environment.

Immortal Concepts said:

Etac actually what I think I'm going to try next. Jody barrio uses only etac and does incredible building murals and auto work with the stuff and has no issues. I've watched his scratch and water tests on youtube and actually impressed. There is a darkness that looms over the owner of etac and I know a couple people that hate his guts, but you can't please everyone.

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Whats this darkness that looms over Bill? Ive heard nothing but good things about him and EXPERIENCED nothing but the best customer service and knowledge of the use of Etac products. So i wouldnt spread anything about someone without knowing first hand. But like you said cant please everyone, but theres always those people that like to tear down others for their own egos.

I'm sure there are particular reasons why people I know dislike bill, and they have to be personal and related to other matters other than the paint. I'm a trust everyone once kinda person so I rarely listen to what is said about people.

This may sound dumb. For example if I'm painting my motorcycle tank and painting the side how do you get the paint thickness to match the rest so it's not higher than the rest?

If it makes sense at my tape line to be exact.

brandon84 said:

If it makes sense at my tape line to be exact.

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There's no dumb questions pal, ive never work on autos so i aint the best but from reading other threads i THINK its made up with the clearcoat at the end, like i say mate im no an auto worker but hang in there and someone will answer for ya, maybe @Immortal Concepts can answer as hes a world of paint knowledge

You can bury a line to an extent with the clear. Thicker the line, more times you will have to cut and buff it. The best way to avoid raised edges is to plan out your taping so you can minimize the buildup. For soft edges roll your tape back on itself and it will create a leveled out soft edge. I outline all my graphics with a pinstripe so this method works best so I don't have to clear stripe then clear again. You can also level out the paint by using a intercoat clear between graphics to keep it consistently butted up against the hard edge to minimize cut and buff needed at the end. If you spray lighter at the edges against the tape it will taper it against the tape so it's not so harsh, just have to watch your coverage. The other deal is your tape mil thickness. The thicker the tape, the harder the edge will be raised because it floats against the edge and pools as it dries. I use fbs or blue fine line tape instead of spraying against green tape. I will lay it all out with fine line then mask off with green tape.

Yer no doubt airbrush politics will always exist, and you have your own thoughts no doubt for ya own reasons but also have found Bill to be one of the most helpful manufacturers out there. one of the issues I find with tape is most use it as the barrier to paint up to, one would expect this but when filling say an area solid, spray the solid paint color just short of the tape but not right on it, then to fill in the rest, angle away from the tape so it feathers the color into it rather than builds a high edge, ya will still get a slight edge but nowhere near as bad and one that is easy enough to bury in ya clear..I does depend of course on ya needs but I see tape as my reminder to then change angle, at times I will also use my hand as an extra shield to ensure the paint isnt pooling or getting too much and creating build..best of luck..