Good drawing board

AndreZA

Air-Valve Autobot!
Okay, so there are quite a few, including myself, using some kind of metal board to stick your artwork on while painting. Well, I just tried using it as a drawing board. Not to stick my paper on and and then draw, but to draw straight on the metal. I use the Staedtler Lumocolor "write on anything" pencils. Stabilo and Faber Castell also makes them. I have the Faber one but it does not erase as easy as the Staedtler one. Have not tried the Stabilo one. When you are done, you can do the final piece on tracing paper nice and clean. Another "why did I not think of this earlier" idea. Atleast for me.
 
Sorry Andre, you have totally lost me with this? why the Lumocolor? why the tracing paper?
I'm always interested in new ideas but maybe I'm being thick over this one?
 
I'm with you Marty lol I'm lost on why draw on metal then transfer to tracing paper lol
 
Kinda lost on meaning also. But because it comes from your mind I'm very interested :)
 
You do rough drawing on the metal. Wipe out and add what you want. When you are done, you place the paper over, trace the image nice and clean. Wipe the board and start the next one. No erasers and if your board is as big as mine, it is cheaper then tossing that size paper after every rough sketch.
 
Ah, Gotcha. That sounds like a reasonable idea, I'll give it a go next time I'm doing something.
Thanks
 
I always do rough sketches and then either go over the lines I want with markers or use tracing paper to get the clean lines. Drawing on the metal board is the same, just bigger and no wasted paper at all.

I've now recently started using light blue pencils for the small sketches. I go over it with a thin marker and then photo copy it. The blue sketch lines does not show on the photocopy and I have a clean drawing.
 
This is why I draw digitally lol, no waste or erasing necessary lol
 
Photoshop or painter. Then when done if I need line art I just print it and use a projector
 
I used photoshop for awhile but now I am trying to learn more on illustrator as you can have vector images and resize without worrying about detail. I hope to get a Cintiq tablet around the end of the year.
 
I used photoshop for awhile but now I am trying to learn more on illustrator as you can have vector images and resize without worrying about detail. I hope to get a Cintiq tablet around the end of the year.
I love illustrator but it really requires an extremely robust computer. In ps if you make your canvas large enough (i do 4000x4000 with lower dpi then up it for final render, this makes it run faster and can zoom in pretty far before anything is lost. Typically you work at 50% for final image size, then zoom in 100% for details. If you are zooming in over 200%, your canvas isn't large enough. If you were to print it actual size, it would cover the side of a house lol. I've always wanted a cintiqHD but paying over a grand just doesn't justify the amount I use it. I still use a cheap bamboo which they aren't called that anymore.
 
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Ya I looked into the bamboo but still doesn't fit my needs as a comic artist. If I had the cintiq I could just draw on that instead of what I do now which is scanning my pencils to clean up, convert to blue line so I can print for inking which I do manually with a brush the old school way. That is why I took up the airbrushing as well, as I wanted to color my comics and not have them done digitally. Their is just something about actual physical art that a computer can't replace.
 
There is a learning curve but becomes natural after awhile. The big thing is the size you get. If you normally draw smaller scale on paper, you are better off with a smaller tablet as you will be wasting all the space on a larger one and paying for it. It probably took me a couple weeks to get adjusted to drawing and looking up at the monitors instead of down at what I'm doing. This is why I have always dreamed of the HD but don't see the lottery in my favor haha.
I've got a 1st Gen bamboo touch (small) that works just fine that I don't use if you want to cover the shipping. Give you a feel for a tablet. The nub is worn out but you can replace that.
 
There is a learning curve but becomes natural after awhile. The big thing is the size you get. If you normally draw smaller scale on paper, you are better off with a smaller tablet as you will be wasting all the space on a larger one and paying for it. It probably took me a couple weeks to get adjusted to drawing and looking up at the monitors instead of down at what I'm doing. This is why I have always dreamed of the HD but don't see the lottery in my favor haha.
I've got a 1st Gen bamboo touch (small) that works just fine that I don't use if you want to cover the shipping. Give you a feel for a tablet. The nub is worn out but you can replace that.
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I've just started to delve into digital drawing and I don't have a problem looking at the screen and drawing on my tablet. I think it is because when I'm airbrusing I'm also looking at the surface I'm painting onto and not the airbrush.

@crewchief227 have you looked at Manga Studio 5 also known as Clip Studio Paint which is the downloadable version http://www.clipstudio.net/en It's designed for comic drawing and even though I don't draw comics I find the vector line tool so natural to use and makes line adjustment really easy. I like it's smooth line tool too and all in all I think it's great drawing software at a brilliant price, for around $50 US it's nothing. It will also import and export photoshop format files. If I hadn't bought a stupid digital Airbrush Tool which it doesn't support I'd be using it far more. Infact I might give up on the Airbrush Tool as a mistake purchase and get stuck in!! I've just convinced myself lol:laugh: The Airbrush Tool doesn't work like an Airbrush anyway.

@Immortal Concepts You say you work at 4000 x 4000 at a low resolution, how low? And then you bump up the resolution for the finished picture can you explain that more? Pretty please :D What size canvas do you end up with in cm? At the moment I tend to create an A4 canvas at 300 resolution because that's what I'm going to print out.
 
I've just started to delve into digital drawing and I don't have a problem looking at the screen and drawing on my tablet. I think it is because when I'm airbrusing I'm also looking at the surface I'm painting onto and not the airbrush.

@crewchief227 have you looked at Manga Studio 5 also known as Clip Studio Paint which is the downloadable version http://www.clipstudio.net/en It's designed for comic drawing and even though I don't draw comics I find the vector line tool so natural to use and makes line adjustment really easy. I like it's smooth line tool too and all in all I think it's great drawing software at a brilliant price, for around $50 US it's nothing. It will also import and export photoshop format files. If I hadn't bought a stupid digital Airbrush Tool which it doesn't support I'd be using it far more. Infact I might give up on the Airbrush Tool as a mistake purchase and get stuck in!! I've just convinced myself lol:laugh: The Airbrush Tool doesn't work like an Airbrush anyway.

@Immortal Concepts You say you work at 4000 x 4000 at a low resolution, how low? And then you bump up the resolution for the finished picture can you explain that more? Pretty please :D What size canvas do you end up with in cm? At the moment I tend to create an A4 canvas at 300 resolution because that's what I'm going to print out.

4000 pixels is equal to like 53.33 in, or 135.45 cm. Now here is where it gets tricky and confusing lol. The printed or display size changes according to the resolution you set. The higher the dpi the smaller the printed image will be. Pixels don't have a set size to them and is just the amount of information contained in the image. Most monitors only display at 75dpi (mine displays like 96dpi) and 300dpi is photo like print. This is why often when you print out a picture that looks big on your screen for a reference, prints out really small or really big and you get frusterated because it won't print at what you assume is a large photo on the web, when in reality it has a high or low dpi set to it (computers rescale images to be viewed best to your screen size and resolution)

Going back to 4000 pixels, it won't always be 135 cm as I just said, and this is because of the dpi. I'll have to stay with inches from here on out because trying to convert to cm is confusing the hell outta me lol. To scale the sheer size down to better understanding, I'll stick with 5400 x 3600px canvas size. If you set the dpi to 300, it would print out to about 18 x 12 inch paper. Now if you set it to 200dpi, the pixels don't change, but the paper print size would change to 27 x 18 inches. Now you can print it however small or big you want, but this is native resolution print size, and obviously the larger you try to print it, the more pixelated it will look because the pixel size increases.

I work in 150dpi because it is the standard max that most home printers or print stores can do. If the final image needs to be photo like quality or a giclee, I will bump it up to 300dpi. There are some really high end printers that will do 600dpi and up and becomes extremely expensive to have printed.This is why when you find people who sell prints, have different prices for the same image. The more it costs, the higher the dpi was set, and since the higher the dpi is set, the smaller the image would print so then it has to be modified to scale to the same size for every different setting. Mind blown yet? lol

To further simplify, it doesn't matter if you work in 100 dpi or 4 million dpi, the pixels of the canvas don't change so there is no point to be working in a high dpi the whole time. It's purely for physical print information. Since monitors are typically 75dpi you cannot see a difference, only in the physical print would you see it and are limited to what your printer or print shop can output.

Now to confuse you more hehe. Programs like PS match your image to your monitor's resolution at 100% size to provide the sharpest view on the screen. So at 100% zoom you are viewing the image 3 to 4 times actual size. This is why when you scale the canvas while working on it, say 25%, 50% etc it views fine, but if you try an odd percentage like 36%, 76% etc etc it looks pixelated *its actually called scaling artifacts* These ragged edges look awful, but the do not affect the actual image file and you cannot see them in the printed image.

I can go on and on and get more confusing lol but I'll say a quick thing about illustrator and vectors. These are not pixels, but mathematical curves.This is why they are virtually infinitely scaleable and stay sharp at all sizes. However, lol, if you output it to print, vectors are still converted to the restrictions of the printer the same as pixel based images are and will pixelate if printed too big. This is why vinyl wraps look good at a distance, but pixelated up close. Now they can be printed to massive scale and stay sharp as you can see out in the world in huge ads on buildings and super high quality wraps, and they accomplish this by offset printing. This is a completely different subject but basically the images are converted electronically into equidistant dots of different sizes to create halftones instead of same size dots. This is why a wrap can cost a couple hundred bucks, or thousands for the same thing.
 
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@Immortal Concepts - I'm starting to think that if I wanted to build a rocket to go to Venus you would know how. You are truly a wealth of information and so willing to share it . Thanks.
 
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