Has Anyone Had This To Happen????

G

Graywolf

Guest
Hi everyone I have a compressor that the cam of the piston rod had came off and I was wondering if I put some lock-tight on the threads would it last a while longer. This compressor is on a tank and I would like to get this going again. Any and all info on this would be most grateful
 
Im sure if the bolt just loosened up you can just tighten it back up with a little loc-tite on the threads and it will work
 
Do you have a photo??? If it's the where the piston bolts on and it's stripped out, the you could tap it out and use a bigger bolt. Make sure there are no metal particles in any of your oil if it's the type that has it.
 
Hi well I've done tried the loctite on it and let it set for a day and half so that it would cure but here are the pictures you requested
 

Attachments

  • 100_0734.JPG
    100_0734.JPG
    504.1 KB · Views: 59
  • 100_0735.JPG
    100_0735.JPG
    466.6 KB · Views: 54
That could be drilled and pinned, drill through the black bit and the shaft it mounts on and through the black bit again then fit a pin through the lot.
It would mean a fair bit of work to do it, might not last to long but might be worth the effort if you have nothing else. This is presuming the black bit is metal.

But honestly I wouldn't bother and just replace the whole thing with a new compressor.
 
The black piece is a counterweight is it on a spline if so important to get it in the right spot or balance is compromised and destruction ensues
 
First question , Have you ensured the bearing is not locked up and is free flowing?
Most time when a bolt comes out of a crank shaft it is due to either the bearing has gone bad or locked up due to heat .
Or the counter balance got stuck and cause excess vibration and loosen the threading for the bolt.
Locktight should lock the bolt in place providing the bearing and counter weight are in good shape.
Also if you have access to a thread chaser I would run the treads to ensure they are not striped out.
 
Ok. First, I would'nt modify the lower assembly. Nor recommend any one to try doing so in the future. Its a recipe waiting in disaster, unless your super confident you have an understanding of what your Mods will do in Off set weight transfur. Tho Its a small motor, you should be ok as the reciprocating assy isnt going to be stressed from fluctuating rpm's or load limits.
Your counter ballancer will act as a weight to equal out and eliminate harmonics from your upper assembly. All this will cause vibration. No two ways about it. It can be machined to a degree but it will always exist some where. So likely If all checks out, as Herb above had pointed out. The bolt may just have come loose from Vibration. As said, Lock-tight will help prevent it happening again. Just clean the area to a degree you could eat food off it, and glue that pesky bugger back in there.

Squishy gets a slap on the wrist. :D :D

Dan
 
I had one like that and it sheared the shaft off right at the bolt. I took it back to paasche and they made good with a replacement, it's a rebuild but whatever, it works. I prefer my California air tool 6 gallon , way better unit.
 
Ok. First, I would'nt modify the lower assembly. Nor recommend any one to try doing so in the future. Its a recipe waiting in disaster, unless your super confident you have an understanding of what your Mods will do in Off set weight transfur. Tho Its a small motor, you should be ok as the reciprocating assy isnt going to be stressed from fluctuating rpm's or load limits.
Your counter ballancer will act as a weight to equal out and eliminate harmonics from your upper assembly. All this will cause vibration. No two ways about it. It can be machined to a degree but it will always exist some where. So likely If all checks out, as Herb above had pointed out. The bolt may just have come loose from Vibration. As said, Lock-tight will help prevent it happening again. Just clean the area to a degree you could eat food off it, and glue that pesky bugger back in there.

Squishy gets a slap on the wrist. :D :D

Dan

Well I hadn't seen the picture then, so no not good in this case. I don't mind the ocassional slap :D
 
More a general comment Squishy. Never meant to come across harsh.
Nothing wrong with a well controlled slap in the right settings... Not to be confused with Piston slap on a cold morning. Often, counter acted with a receiving slap. :)

Dan
 
if, and it looks to me like a big if, the shaft is cast metal - then the drill and tap out to the next size option may be viable.
Check to see if you have sufficient surrounding material to cope with support, though, given it's going to be working under load, heat, friction etc.
Also, I totally agree with Mr M on the bearings. Once seized, they're toast. Toss 'em and replace.
"Also if you have access to a thread chaser I would run the treads to ensure they are not striped out." - quote from above [ Mr M]
I'm guessing you're referring to a tap and die set? Mr M.
I was having issues with a store bought "home / portable" compressor, but overcame them by replacing the DC drive motor with an old refridgerator compressor, and rewiring it to suit.
A little heavier, but a crapload quieter and more efficient for the job.
Win / win for me.
 
Well Thanks to all of your tips and helpful suggestions now I've got the piston cam fixed and it builds up pressure and once it cuts off the motor gets hot I think I may have the wires crossed but I'm not to sure I wrote down the color code and where they're located. But my grand kids threw a bunch of papers away off my desk. the color code of the wire's are red ,white, yellow
 
Back
Top