OK what's the difference...

Digitalflyer

Young Tutorling
I'm getting ready to order some more paint, and instead of getting the Createx Colors Primary Set I'm looking at getting the Wicked set instead (a bit more universal). But (yep there's always a but), can anyone point me in the right direction of which one to get, Detail or Normal Set.
I know the detail has a slightly smaller pigment but is the anyother benefits or non at all?

Cheers
Neil :)
 
Details are their version of transparent paints, so they have all of those properties. My preference as I sometimes like to do an underpainting, and also auto work is to get the following (which I find is just a generally good combo for me for shirts or anything else too)

Opaques:
- Black - Probably may not need this so much for portraits etc, but good f0r other stuff (be aware very heavily pigmented, bottle needs a very good shake, and will need more reduction than other colours.
- White - for underpainting over dark colours, mixing lighter colours (will turn trans opaque) highlights (similar properties to black, though I find not quite as heavily pigmented
- Red - for an instant red, the trans will be very pink until layers are built up and sometimes you just want straight red.

Detail:
- Primary colours, you can mix pretty much any colour using the white and teeny amounts of black (you can keep them trans with detail white and black, but I don't do this)
Sepia - For underpainting on light coloured surfaces, and just because I love the look of it.

Additives:
4012 reducer - a must have for negligable tip dry when you get the balance right, great flow, and a host of other benefits. Plus its also a great ab cleaner used on its own, so no need to buy additional products, just get the larger bottle as it works out much more cost effective and you will maybe use anywhere from 3 - 10 times as much as paint.
Transbase - not something I use all the time, but is great for sealing paint so that trans colours don't bleed into each other if you don't want them too, and for laying down a base on shirts etc. It is basically the paint carrier without pigment, so can be used to thicken paint that has been reduced to lighten colour etc and prevent spidering.

That is pretty much my kit, I don't need more than that. However in addition to that I do have:

fleshtone - it won't match any fleshtone you are trying to do, but I find it easier to mix colours for flesh using this as a starting point - not necessary as you can use the other paints, just a preference for me.
Gold and Silver - for a bit of bling - needs a .5 nozzle to get the best out of it
Candy20 primary set - which I'm still learning to use.

The reason I prefer the Detail colours to opaques is when I do auto work the colours pop when cleared vs the opaques which have a pastel/chalky look (IMO) which I don't like for auto, they also look great on other surfaces, and can give infinite colour blends creating many more hues on the surface as the colours overlap and change. They also need less reduction. The downside is you have to do more layers to reach more intense colour (hence the buying opaque red otherwise you get pink until it builds), but I find that helps you get more subtlety as you have to work a bit more slowly. It suits the way I paint so its not really a downside for me personally.
 
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Detail Colors is the transparent line of Wicked and Wicked Color is Semi Opaque. I did not care for the Detail line. Besides having the semi transparent you can always use transparent base to thin them down.


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But can't you make a transparent from the opaque by reducing heavily or would this be a bit of a daft idea?

Kinda..You'll essentially make a lighter opaque or semi opaque. Not a true trans but can at times be used as such but wont quite have the same effect..
 
Also you kind of need two types of paint - wicked for the models and Illustration for the paper if you are using Createx, you can use wicked for illustration but it's harder to erase. Wicked detail is the transparant range. Not sure if you know but keep away from createx Airbrush colours as they are for textiles, hope this helps
 
But can't you make a transparent from the opaque by reducing heavily or would this be a bit of a daft idea?
You can reduce opaque so that it becomes more trans, but if you are layering colours it can become 'muddy' (in my experience lol, but that could just be me) and unlike a true trans where you can just keep adding layers and the colour will continue to get richer and darker, a reduced opaque will eventually reach its original colour, stay there and also cover up the layer beneath (any textures or detail etc). So for a layer or so it could be ok, but it depends entirely on what and how you like to paint, and your preferred technique.
 
Also you kind of need two types of paint - wicked for the models and Illustration for the paper if you are using Createx, you can use wicked for illustration but it's harder to erase. Wicked detail is the transparant range. Not sure if you know but keep away from createx Airbrush colours as they are for textiles, hope this helps
Hmmm the Createx Colors is what I bought first time round after reading on a far from ideal forum post elsewhere... But I've managed to use it up on some Rc models. But I have a couple of bottles of wicked opaques and wondered whether to by a set or buy the detail, wasn't sure the difference :)
 
You can reduce opaque so that it becomes more trans, but if you are layering colours it can become 'muddy' (in my experience lol, but that could just be me) and unlike a true trans where you can just keep adding layers and the colour will continue to get richer and darker, a reduced opaque will eventually reach its original colour, stay there and also cover up the layer beneath (any textures or detail etc). So for a layer or so it could be ok, but it depends entirely on what and how you like to paint, and your preferred technique.
Most of the stuff will be rc models but occasionally now and then paper ect for something different. :)
 
Hmmm the Createx Colors is what I bought first time round after reading on a far from ideal forum post elsewhere... But I've managed to use it up on some Rc models. But I have a couple of bottles of wicked opaques and wondered whether to by a set or buy the detail, wasn't sure the difference :)

I have a feeling you're talking about standard createx colours? Music is referring to anything other than those from createx, standard requires larger nozzles and I certainly wouldn't use it for models.
 
I have a feeling you're talking about standard createx colours? Music is referring to anything other than those from createx, standard requires larger nozzles and I certainly wouldn't use it for models.
Yep the standard createx colors, most of the models I used it up on were covered in a fabric based covering but I have managed to use it on some of the film type of covering using a 0.4 needle was a bit of a struggle at times but managed it an got it to Clearcoat too, turned out pretty well but not perfect ;-)
 
Yep the standard createx colors, most of the models I used it up on were covered in a fabric based covering but I have managed to use it on some of the film type of covering using a 0.4 needle was a bit of a struggle at times but managed it an got it to Clearcoat too, turned out pretty well but not perfect ;-)

Going on your signature I shall assume you fly model planes and/or helicopters, I did too, so I think the covering you mention is probably oracover, the iron on covering for balsa models, you can paint this stuff with no prep at all other than maybe a very light scuff with scotchbrite, using either auto air or E'tac with private stock or other E'tac with the GAC additive.

I gave up flying to stay home and care for my sick wife,but I sure as hell miss it:(
 
Hi Malky
You had a TRex didn't you ;-)
According to the manufacturers of Solarfilm your need to use Prymol or Solarlac Clearcoat to help paint stick, I found that the Clearcoat worked well. But yep film and fibreglass ect :)
 
Hi Malky
You had a TRex didn't you ;-)
According to the manufacturers of Solarfilm your need to use Prymol or Solarlac Clearcoat to help paint stick, I found that the Clearcoat worked well. But yep film and fibreglass ect :)

I actually had three T-rex's 2 600 an 1 700 but problems when they went flybarless caused me to give it up and move over to planes, I did all fiberglass and foam repairs for the guys who crashed which is how I got started airbrushing, how to did you know I had a T-rex o_O:)

I've never heard of the Solarfilm, everything I flew that wasn't foam had Oracover, most of what I had was from Sebart, my last plane didn't even get maiden and was sold along with all my radio gear and chargers and such, all I have left now is a 6 - 25 amp power supply and my little iron for putting on the Oracover, like i said I miss it so might get back onto it one day, I certainly enjoyed the indoor flying with shock flyers and still have all the stuff I need to make those except for the depron:)

For all the model repairs and painting I used a Multi primer we have here called Sudwest allgrund primer, it's ideal for metal fiberglass, polyester and just about everything else, I even use it now for my art boards instead of gesso because it is self leveling and flows to a beautiful smooth finish with no sanding other than a light scuff before artwork.
 
I actually had three T-rex's 2 600 an 1 700 but problems when they went flybarless caused me to give it up and move over to planes, I did all fiberglass and foam repairs for the guys who crashed which is how I got started airbrushing, how to did you know I had a T-rex o_O:)

I've never heard of the Solarfilm, everything I flew that wasn't foam had Oracover, most of what I had was from Sebart, my last plane didn't even get maiden and was sold along with all my radio gear and chargers and such, all I have left now is a 6 - 25 amp power supply and my little iron for putting on the Oracover, like i said I miss it so might get back onto it one day, I certainly enjoyed the indoor flying with shock flyers and still have all the stuff I need to make those except for the depron:)

For all the model repairs and painting I used a Multi primer we have here called Sudwest allgrund primer, it's ideal for metal fiberglass, polyester and just about everything else, I even use it now for my art boards instead of gesso because it is self leveling and flows to a beautiful smooth finish with no sanding other than a light scuff before artwork.
Hahaha how do I know?
Well let's say we had a simular conversation a couple of months ago on what substrate people use to paint on, at the time my avatar was my Scale Discus Glider ;-) :-D :-D

Solarfilm is an age old iron on film that came along before Ocracover and is manufactured in the UK, Ocracover is very similar only cheaper and they have improved the manufacturering process to make it better quality. :)
 
Hahaha how do I know?
Well let's say we had a simular conversation a couple of months ago on what substrate people use to paint on, at the time my avatar was my Scale Discus Glider ;-) :-D :-D

Solarfilm is an age old iron on film that came along before Ocracover and is manufactured in the UK, Ocracover is very similar only cheaper and they have improved the manufacturering process to make it better quality. :)

I get it now you cheeky little toerag, you sneaked anavatar change by me

Definitely never heard of the Solarfilm, we have loads of model suppliers here in Holland but every one of them sell oracover, I'm happy with cheaper, less of a dentist when I crash which was another favorite hobby of mine:confused:
 
I get it now you cheeky little toerag, you sneaked anavatar change by me

Definitely never heard of the Solarfilm, we have loads of model suppliers here in Holland but every one of them sell oracover, I'm happy with cheaper, less of a dentist when I crash which was another favorite hobby of mine:confused:

Less of a dentist??? Did you used to fly them at dentists to get your own back for some kind of mistreatment. How much less of them was there, are we talking headless, just a nose or an eye??? It does sound like a fun hobby, I didn't really get it before, but now I know you get to damage dentists, I have a whole new perspective. Is it just dentists, or are other professions available. I vote for clowns (except basepaint).
 
Less of a dentist??? Did you used to fly them at dentists to get your own back for some kind of mistreatment. How much less of them was there, are we talking headless, just a nose or an eye??? It does sound like a fun hobby, I didn't really get it before, but now I know you get to damage dentists, I have a whole new perspective. Is it just dentists, or are other professions available. I vote for clowns (except basepaint).

LOL, note to self; stop typing on my bastard phone:eek:

Although less dentists might a good thing, should have read less of a dent:) but you knew that, didn't you? :):):)
 
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