Best "All around" performer

[Fresh Undies]

Is it worth getting a preset handle for eclipse lines or does no body really use them? Also ive see that you can get
Triple Action Handle for these guys. Has anyone had any experience with these new handles...?
https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=2936&product2_id=21

 

[Madbrush]

Is it worth getting a preset handle for eclipse lines or does no body really use them? Also ive see that you can get
Triple Action Handle for these guys. Has anyone had any experience with these new handles...?
https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=2936&product2_id=21

I've had them on every brush I've ever owned, and although in the beginning I was using it, it started to become tedious constantly adjusting it, because depending on what I'm doing I may want to pull back 30% to reduce the paint to air ratio, sometimes 60% and if I'm in real close maybe even as little as around 10%, so I have just got used to controlling distance on my own without the pre-set, and for periodic clogs it is necessary to open it right up, really the only thing I do with it now is ensure that it is fully open before I start work.

I've never tried the triple action set up, but since I've got used to my equipment now and it works for me I don't see the need to have get used to new things or methods, vendors are so keen to move these things on that they will do everything to make you think you actually need them or that they will miraculously improve your work or speed as you work, a lot of these devices make a brush look cool, but mostly that's all they do, if your equipment works and you get out of it what you want comfortably, you don't need anything else, I have one brush with a built in MAC and it is easy to nudge open accidentally and it makes it difficult to place the brush in it's stand, so I wish I had bough the model without it, I have some PTFE tape in it to make it stiff and keep it fully open and then use an external MAC which is situated well out of the way of my clumsy fingers I totally love the brush, just not the built in MAC, I think the best example of reliability is the Zippo lighter, living proof that the simplest things work the best

 

[Fresh Undies]

Thanks Madbrush, just what I wanted to here. I'm on the verge of buying a HP-SBS as I only have a patriot with 0.5 needle ( I know you can get finer needles) but the sbs has such great reviews, so I'll save my money on the pre set handle and buy some aztec cups for it instead. Cheers buddy.

 

[Madbrush]

Thanks Madbrush, just what I wanted to here. I'm on the verge of buying a HP-SBS as I only have a patriot with 0.5 needle ( I know you can get finer needles) but the sbs has such great reviews, so I'll save my money on the pre set handle and buy some aztec cups for it instead. Cheers buddy.

No Problem, from all I've heard of the SBS it seems to be one damn cool item, it's actually at the top of my next shopping list but I will stick with stock model with no intention of any kind of modification, my decision to purchase isn't just based on the good reviews it has but more form the fact that I have never heard a wrong word said about them.

I will say however that the one thing I do like about the pre-set handle is that it makes the brush look like it's finished, the closed handle actually looks like they just didn't know what to put there, , but as I said, I believe that it is it's simplicity that makes work so well

I now have the Iwata HP-BH+ (the one with the MAC) and the Micron CM-B, I love them both but they re both dedicated detail brushes the largest being 0.2 so I reckon the sbs will be an ideal companion for them, plus I have never had a side feed because I was always worried about balance problems with a cup hanging on the side, but I have been assured on many occasions that it in fact isn't a problem so I'de like to give it a go and if I like it, then the side feed Micron is probably next on the list

 

[Fresh Undies]

Is the side feed micron worth the money over say the HP-SB+ with the 0.2mm setup and half price? Don't get me wrong I get a zing when I see a CM but I wonder if its internals are any better thus worth the price.

 

[Madbrush]

Is the side feed micron worth the money over say the HP-SB+ with the 0.2mm setup and half price? Don't get me wrong I get a zing when I see a CM but I wonder if its internals are any better thus worth the price.

Everything around the head on all Microns is different to any other Iwata and how it performs at low pressure is far better than any other brush in the Iwata range, I had to try one myself before I would believe this, but it is true, as to whether it is worth the extra money or not I really couldn't be sure, but all I do know is I want one,

If you ever get a chance to try one do so, I can almost guarantee you will not want to leave the shop without it

 

[Vladimir]

Is the side feed micron worth the money over say the HP-SB+ with the 0.2mm setup and half price? Don't get me wrong I get a zing when I see a CM but I wonder if its internals are any better thus worth the price.

All Micron are worth I'd been been thinking for a very long time that Microns are just something to put out our money off our pockets. Just marketing you know ...till I tried it myself... All my detail ABs will be Micron level as soon as possible cause they're worth it. Before I tried CM I thought nothing higher than High Perfomance is required. I was wrong

Don't expect CM parts or AB body to be better than any other Iwata's series. All of the series, are the same quality. The differences are in body shapes, nozzles etc. But it is not in production quality. I'd say it's perfect. But springs are hell stiff as for me especially those in air valwes
The only thing that makes Micron to spray like Micron, which is THE MAIN feature of CM, is its air nozzle. Who owns micron can compare it to other ABs they're different. If we'd put such air nozzle, and of course 0.2mm nozzle to Eclipse, it would become a Micron in spray characteristics. What will never happen due to marketing department want to eat also and I think caviare mostly

And one pleasant thing about CM it's when you buy it from Japan! A lot of pleasure one could get

 

[Madbrush]

When I first saw the title of this thread I thought it was all about me me me

 

[Smiler65]

Is the side feed micron worth the money over say the HP-SB+ with the 0.2mm setup and half price? Don't get me wrong I get a zing when I see a CM but I wonder if its internals are any better thus worth the price.

I now have this exact combination of brushes and I love both of them,the hp- sb+ is just a little bit longer than the micron, but both fit very nicely into my hand. The micron is just in a league of its own, it just has that quality Feeling of a high end product.

 

[Nessus]

Is it worth getting a preset handle for eclipse lines or does no body really use them? Also ive see that you can get
Triple Action Handle for these guys. Has anyone had any experience with these new handles...?
https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?products_id=2936&product2_id=21

Madbrush already answered this, but I'll totally second what he said. I'm a newbie, and I did buy a preset handle for my HP-CS. It looks nicer than the stock handle, and the shape & balance are IMO more comfortable, but that's the extent of its pluses. I've found preset handles in general (I have two brushes with them now) to be significantly less efficient than just learning to control lines manually. And learning paint reduction is the lions share of that anyway, rather than trigger control (where it acts more as a crutch than training wheels), so it isn't really useful IMO.

And what Madbrush says about it interfering with manually pulling the needle back for flushing is 120% true with the Eclipse handle in particular. The Eclipse's preset knob only screws back as far as the needle's base trigger-based travel before it comes loose from the handle. W/ the Eclipse, you end up having to basically remove the preset knob from the handle in order to do that kind of flushing, making it less efficient than the stock handle (my Badger Sotar's preset handle goes back a lot further, and so doesn't have this problem).

In fact one thing I've noticed watching really advanced/experienced airbrush artists is that a lot of them seem to prefer working without a handle entirely. I assume this is to make grabbing the needle for flushing between colors that much simpler. Also with the Eclipse specifically, working with the handle off lets you adjust the trigger spring to a much lighter tension, as having the the handle screwed on blocks the spring guide from being backed up past a certain point (another issue my Sotar doesn't have).

I'd also recommend against a MAC valve. I bought an in-line one because I thought it would add flexibility to my setup (against the advice of some old forum hands here, at that), but it really just added redundant complication. If your regulator is within reach, that's all you need. A good regulator will give you more precise and repeatable control, and you only have to deal with one setting instead of juggling two separate ones which control the exact same thing anyway. IMO you only need a MAC valve if you're switching between paint brands/types a lot in the same session. Otherwise you don't really need to fiddle with pressure beyond occasional start-of-session calibration.

In fact, I don't even use quick-connectors anymore, since I prefer pen-like handling with a light hose and as short a stalk as possible. I rarely use multiple brushes in one session, and the speed difference between quick connect and screw connect is negligible enough that it wouldn't really be meaningful unless I was constantly switching between brushes... in which case a manifold setup would seem to be the win/win option. I've kinda come to feel quick connects are more for extending the stalk for those that prefer a bit of pseudo-pistol grip than they are for efficiency.

 

[Squishy]

I agree totally with the guys about the preset handle. Depending in what you wan to paint, it's extremely rare you will want to have the same volume of paint for very long at all. It's much better to get the feel of the trigger and be able to vary it as you are painting. I have never used one, and can't think of a time I would need to. I actually think it could interfere and slow down learning to control the brush.

I do disagree with nessus about the MAC valve though. We all have our preferences I guess I wouldn't have a built in one, if it ever messed up then your brush is out of action, and I find the position of them gets in the way. But I do use an inline one. My regulator isn't near me, and isn't too accurate at low pressure either. Having the in line MAC means I can set my regulator to the highest I am likely to need to use, and then easily adjust pressure on the go, and as I do automotive work like to change fairly frequently for larger coverage, down to fine detail work. I really like the quick connect too, even though I only use two brushes I find it much easier and more efficient to swap them around, plus I don't have to have a bulky manifold taking up space, with more hoses everywhere, and also has many more places to leak from (in my experience anyway, but I may just have been unlucky, and again it's a personal preference thing too.). Having the MAC valve underneath the brush also helps me with my double handed grip, I find it very comfortable to hold, so I do agree with nessus there

 

[Madbrush]

@Squishy I've had my built in mac open and there is too little in it that can go wrong with it so that would hardly ever be a problem, my only complaint about is that it is situated such that I have accidentally nudged it open a few times and ruined stuff because of it, like you I use an inline mac but my compressor sits on floor and because I have a bad back I can't keep going down to it so the mac is handy, I could put the compressor on my table but it's a mini oilless with little tank and it would irritate me if I had it all day in my ear

I actually agree with nessus and if I worked as he does I would actually do it the same way but I do mainly small work on an easel just a bit bigger than A3 and what I'm doing fits my needs, I normally only use one brush but I do use the quick connect because I've dropped my earlier brushes which were cheapie ones at the time so many times that because I now have my two top Iwatas I want them off the hose and at the back of my table where I can't knock them over, because I also hold my brush like a pen I've stopped using the pistol grip water trap because it's uncomfortable to me, instead I simply check the main trap regular and empty when needed.

As you say though it's all about personal needs and tastes and I think no two people even with exactly the same kit would have the same needs as each other, having said that knowing how others work and their preferences can sometimes cause a little light bulb moment that could make some people's lives just a touch easier, I can't count the times I've thought "now why didn't I think of that?"

 

[Nessus]

My compressor is separated from the regulator by a length of coil hose, so I could in theory stick the regulator just about anywhere pretty easily. Currently the regulator is on a stalk about knee high under my easel. If I had to adjust it here and there throughout a session, I'd agree with you guys on the mac valve, but my experience so far has been that provided my paint reduction is correct and consistent, I only have to do a calibration adjustment at the very beginning of a session. After that I don't need to touch it at all.

I did go hunting specifically for a regulator that was good at lower pressures. This is the one I'm using: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GK9Y1S/ref=s9_hps_bw_g263_i1
It's worked out quite well, so I'd be happy to recommend it.

I don't keep the brushes attached to the hose when I'm not painting. Not using a quick connect doesn't really effect where or how I keep or rest my brushes, as I connect and disconnect them under the exact same circumstances as I would with a quick connect. It just takes half a second longer to connect/disconnect by twisting instead of pulling, so even if I were switching brushes mid-session the difference is entirely trivial. I do like how a quick connect acts as a swivel, and wish I could retain that aspect, but in terms of actual quickness my experience is it's 90% placebo.

This has made me curious about other people's setups, ergonomically speaking, so I think I'll have a comb through the thread for that in the General Discussion section.

 

[Wayne Wickers II]

Which is better, the "Super Lube" or "Iwata Lube" from Coastairbrush? Using Iwata Eclipse SBS

 

[Nessus]

Dunno about the Iwata spray gun lube, as I've never tried it. I've used Iwata Superlube, and IMO it's not very good as an actual lube. It does have some utility in lessening tip dry when using water based paints, but I never noticed any difference as far as it allegedly making the brush easier to keep clean by keeping paint from sticking to internals.

Badger Regdab "Needle Juice" has the best actual lubrication of the lubes I've tried, but it's very watery and that makes it kinda sloppy to apply. Some folks say it dies out and turns sticky, but I've never had it left in the brush long enough for that to happen to me (it gets stripped out and reapplied during cleaning).

There's new stuff called K33 that's exclusive to Foxy Studio. It has a consistency similar to petroleum jelly. Doesn't lube as well as the Badger Regdab stuff, but is better than Iwata Superlube. It is however much easier to apply precisely than either badger or Iwata lube, and allegedly (I haven't been using it long enough to verify) doesn't dry out or gum up ever.

Currently I'm using K33. I like the Badger stuff better in terms of actual lubrication performance, but K33 lubes well enough, and is the most practical in terms of ease of use/mess.

 

[Basstrack238]

The 155 or 105 are pretty good at 'all around ' work for me. I'm a badger guy so I can't say much for the others. Plus you can get the needle conversion for fine work. They are pretty good for details but you can also open em up and let it rip. Takes some getting used to though after working with a velocity or other fine tip unit.

 

[jaystacy]

I need to buy that regulator it shows per lb where mine is like every 2 and harder to read. Thanks for posting link.