jarheadmech
Young Tutorling
Are most people using a separate AB just for detail? I have a .35 and a .50 Eclipse airbrushes...
Detail AB?
- Thread starter jarheadmech
- Start date
Yes I use a few different one depending on my mood.
I have the Iwata C-CM+ with a .18 nozzle set up it came with the .23 set up
I also have an H&S Infinity with the .15 set up in it.
I had the Krome with the .20 set up but I gave it as a gift to Jurien72 when he made a trip to my house for a visit.
But in the right hands (not mine of course) super fine detail can be done with the Eclipse CS .35
But as Jurien says it comes down to practice time put in and learning to control both airbrush and paint reduction.
I have the Iwata C-CM+ with a .18 nozzle set up it came with the .23 set up
I also have an H&S Infinity with the .15 set up in it.
I had the Krome with the .20 set up but I gave it as a gift to Jurien72 when he made a trip to my house for a visit.
But in the right hands (not mine of course) super fine detail can be done with the Eclipse CS .35
But as Jurien says it comes down to practice time put in and learning to control both airbrush and paint reduction.
I have seen a guy paint 25 skulls on a small coin size circle with a 0.35mm eclipse, I've done an eagle in business card size with the same brush. Depends on skill, ability and size of the thing you are painting. Practice is the key and understanding how your brush and paint work together.
jarheadmech
Young Tutorling
Guess I'll be training a lot with my .35...
MeeshellMP
Goddess Queen of carts
Yep sure do!! I have several detail guns I use. One being a micron (which I don't play with enough), and my HP-B plus guns. All of my guns have a little play in what I'm working on, even the P.O.S. (pile of poop)
AndreZA
Air-Valve Autobot!
It depends on the size of the piece. I've painted big pieces with nothing more than my Eclipse because the "detail" did not need anything smaller. If you're painting a billboard you can do the detail with a spray gun. It is all relative to the piece. And when you go really small, don't bother with an airbrush, use a paintbrush or pencil.
Airbrush Dreams
Air-Valve Autobot!
You can do some amazing detail with almost any nozzle size. It is really a matter of mastering the control on that brush. With a .35mm CS you can dial down the pressure and reduce the paint to aid in achieving detail. The issue becomes the responsiveness of the trigger to paint flow. Just the slightest of pull on the trigger will give you paint, so a real delicate touch is key. The fine needle brushes allow you greater control and is more forgiving when pulling back. The hindrance is larger coverage and the need to balance the reduction of paint plus pigment size. Believe me I have seen some amazing art done with a Paasche H external mix airbrush. Practice is the key!
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Jurien72
Have Airbrush - Will Travel!
Rick and I were playing around with his H model, and I bet with determination and a lot of practice, someone could do some amazing artwork with that airbrush. I can kinda spin the nozzle as I'm painting, but it is very difficult! I'd love to do a painting someday just to show that it's possible. Plus cleaning is easy!
The Paasche H was THE workhorse of the practical special effects industry for decades. If you look at behind the scenes photos of FX people working on miniatures and creatures from the mid 70s through the early 2000s, if they're using an airbrush it'll be an H. In modern times, you see much more of a mix, with different artists using Microns, Eclipses, Renegades, even mini HVLP guns, but a good half of the time you'll still see them holding an H.
Supposedly this was because the H was a very good "no fuss" brush that allowed them to get good results very efficiently without the learning curve or maintenance needs of a double action.
I have one myself, and cannot do a thing with it. Struggled with it for years before getting my first Iwata (an Eclipse CS), and in my very first hour with the CS I was doing all the things I could never get the H to do practically without effort. My Iwata and Badger double actions "just work" right out of the box, but my H has terrible atomization, cannot be coaxed to do anything but very general broad coverage sorts of things, and is not any easier or faster to clean than the double actions (my CS and TH are both actually easier to clean than the H). I suspect mine must have a body weld out of alignment or something, B/C if it accurately represents the H line, there's no way they would've become as popular as that. I am intensely curious to compare notes in person with someone who used an H in the above capacity, just to see if my H really is faulty, or if there's some secret sauce technique that I'm just not picking up on for some reason.
Supposedly this was because the H was a very good "no fuss" brush that allowed them to get good results very efficiently without the learning curve or maintenance needs of a double action.
I have one myself, and cannot do a thing with it. Struggled with it for years before getting my first Iwata (an Eclipse CS), and in my very first hour with the CS I was doing all the things I could never get the H to do practically without effort. My Iwata and Badger double actions "just work" right out of the box, but my H has terrible atomization, cannot be coaxed to do anything but very general broad coverage sorts of things, and is not any easier or faster to clean than the double actions (my CS and TH are both actually easier to clean than the H). I suspect mine must have a body weld out of alignment or something, B/C if it accurately represents the H line, there's no way they would've become as popular as that. I am intensely curious to compare notes in person with someone who used an H in the above capacity, just to see if my H really is faulty, or if there's some secret sauce technique that I'm just not picking up on for some reason.
