Free play in your triggers??

C

Cluck Kent

Guest
(Lost the first type up of this post dammit so now recreating it)

I have a brand new H&S Ultra that I have been doing my newbie practice lessons etc with but find that I am having some challenging moments due to about 2-3mm of free play in the trigger. That is, I have to move the trigger about 2 possibly 2.5mm before I sense an increase in the tension indicating that I've hit that spot where the needle is starting to move.
My question is: Is this how it is for all airbrushes and is it like this with the Iwata's and especially the Iwata Micron?
I am asking about the Iwata's as well as that is the way I am leaning BUT that is assuming that the free play that I am getting is model specific and that the Iwata's don't have that issue. At this point I am assuming that it is because I went for a basic starter type airbrush and didn't lash out on dole day!
Thanks everyone :)
Paul
 
Now you've asked the question I'll have to check for you (someone will probably answer before I get home from work to check) but I've just learnt the point where paint starts to flow, never took much notice if it was free play or not.
 
Hi Chuck, you might try and tighten the chuck guide. If it is too loose you will get play in the trigger. Don't tighten it all the way though or it will be too tight. Finger tight and then back a half turn or so I think. More experienced people can answer better than I can. Just a noob here myself.
 
Hi Chuck, you might try and tighten the chuck guide. If it is too loose you will get play in the trigger. Don't tighten it all the way though or it will be too tight. Finger tight and then back a half turn or so I think. More experienced people can answer better than I can. Just a noob here myself.
Apart from the 'Chuck' reference to Cluck, that's exactly how I tighten my guide
Everything on the airbrush should only be finger tight. The spanner included with the Iwata brushes is only used for the nozzle because it's so small, even then I only use it until I feel that it's 'home '
 
Apart from the 'Chuck' reference to Cluck, that's exactly how I tighten my guide
Everything on the airbrush should only be finger tight. The spanner included with the Iwata brushes is only used for the nozzle because it's so small, even then I only use it until I feel that it's 'home '

:eek::eek:ops:I need my :glasses: apparently! I read Chuck from the username and did not see that he signed it Paul. One of these days I will get some sleep. Sorry about that Paul:)
 
Interesting that this is posted now. For the past few days I've been trying to figure out why my Infinity has a dead spot and my Evolution not. By only keeping the body, I transferred all the parts from the Evolution to the Infinity body, the dead spot was gone. So by putting back the original parts bit by bit I could eliminate the problem. Only when I got to the nozzle the problem appeared again. I can't see what's the problem with the nozzle but I have new one on the way and will repeat the exercise.
 
You should be able to get any slack out of the trigger by first loosen the needle chuck,Then turn in the spring tenion a juster till the slacks out of the trigger then reseat the needle and tighten the needle chuck nut. (don't tighten the spring tenion without releasing the needle chuck as you can split the nozzle because when you screw the spring in it would push the needle up into the nozzle of the brush)
 
Interesting that this is posted now. For the past few days I've been trying to figure out why my Infinity has a dead spot and my Evolution not. By only keeping the body, I transferred all the parts from the Evolution to the Infinity body, the dead spot was gone. So by putting back the original parts bit by bit I could eliminate the problem. Only when I got to the nozzle the problem appeared again. I can't see what's the problem with the nozzle but I have new one on the way and will repeat the exercise.

Andre I had a small split in a nozzle that made my hp-cs do that for some reason?
 
The nozzle could be slightly flared, not enough to see but enough to affect performance?
 
Interesting that this is posted now. For the past few days I've been trying to figure out why my Infinity has a dead spot and my Evolution not. By only keeping the body, I transferred all the parts from the Evolution to the Infinity body, the dead spot was gone. So by putting back the original parts bit by bit I could eliminate the problem. Only when I got to the nozzle the problem appeared again. I can't see what's the problem with the nozzle but I have new one on the way and will repeat the exercise.

If you pull the trigger and watch the tip of the needle, does it move immediately? If it does, your needle probably has a clog. I had a similar delay issue with my Evo the other night, one quick twist with the nozzle cleaning tool and it was good as new.
 
I checked, no delay! But actually found it easier to remove the handle and watch the back of the needle to see if it was moving. Because the tip is tapered it makes it harder to see movement with all the reflection going on
 
Hi
Just came off Youtube, I visited airbrushtutor and once again watched the review from Mitch on the H & S Evolution AL. Low and behold he actually comments on the fact that there is a 2 to 3 mm delay on the trigger of the airbrush. I own an H &S Infinity 2 in 1 and a Evolution 2 in 1. If I set my Infinity up to have a very soft trigger action (which incidentally you can adjust with the Infinity) then I too have a small amount of play in the trigger, yet in the Evolution there is no play. I haven't been in touch with H & S about this but I think I might have to ask the question. I wonder if some of their brushes are just designed that way?. If anyone has the answer could they let us know please.
 
(Lost the first type up of this post dammit so now recreating it)

I have a brand new H&S Ultra that I have been doing my newbie practice lessons etc with but find that I am having some challenging moments due to about 2-3mm of free play in the trigger. That is, I have to move the trigger about 2 possibly 2.5mm before I sense an increase in the tension indicating that I've hit that spot where the needle is starting to move.
My question is: Is this how it is for all airbrushes and is it like this with the Iwata's and especially the Iwata Micron?
I am asking about the Iwata's as well as that is the way I am leaning BUT that is assuming that the free play that I am getting is model specific and that the Iwata's don't have that issue. At this point I am assuming that it is because I went for a basic starter type airbrush and didn't lash out on dole day!
Thanks everyone :)
Paul

Harder and steenbeck are about the best brush you can buy , believe it or not.
I have just bought the infinity and I can honestly say that it is the most responsive and controllabe airbrush that i will have ever. As for the play you must make sure that the barrel tension is wound in tighter to increase pressure on the spring and then re-insert your needle and there should be no play at the beginning of the trigger. Ok.
hope it helps.
tuffnutz.
 
I have the Evolution 2 in 1... It has a slight delay, but nothing major and it is consistant so I have got used to it. On my Veda it was the same but more irratic and varied, so harder to be smooth.
 
I've long complained about the delay in my Infinity 2 in 1 but thought it was just me. My CM-C+ had a delay as well, but that turned out to be a damaged headset. All better now. My Sotar has the best response by far. I'd love to have the response of my Sotar with the detail of the Micron and the look if the Infinity. Might have to check out an Evolution next.
 
I just discovered something new. I've always just tightened the nozzle cap till it felt tight enough. Had a look and saw that the nozzle was moving a bit untill it hits the body. I now tightened the nozzle cap till it can't go any more and now the nozzle does not move anymore. I will test it this way for a while and see if that might have been the issue.
 
Thank you everyone for your replies. I have had to do that horrible four letter word so haven't been able to come back in here and see all your feed back. WORK!! Grrr!

Anyway, the needle tensioner/chuck/spring tensioner thingy :) is tightened all the way in and when I have the end off the AB and move the trigger there is initally NO movement and then a small movement starts to occur in the AB at that point further back. However, through sheer persistence and stubbornness I have persevered and gotten used to the freeplay a bit more. However, I do still find it annoying to work with nonetheless BUT only when trying to do small fine lines and sometimes when trying to do the really light touch movements eg the last part of blends etc. Anything that requires stronger pull on the trigger isn't an issue and I enjoy it and will keep it but when doing finer work this particular model does not inspire a lot of confidence to trust that it will not lead to a blob being squeezed out instead if say just a fine line. Perhaps it's me but I want an airbrush with a trigger that will have an effect AS SOON AS I move the trigger. I can control that but not the sporadic operation of this freeplay which when coupled with say slight blockages compounds the issue further.

Mitch in one of his lessons / tutorials refers to the fact that he says something like ".... you can't see paint coming out but you're moving the trigger so you know it is..." I think it's in the eye project from the basic course ... anyway, that comment is what got me most interested in the Iwata Micron so I'll post a second query specific to all Micron owners.

Thanks again all and happy airbrushing.
Paul :) aka Cluck aka Chuck if you haven't had your eyes tested lately :) :)
 
You should be able to get any slack out of the trigger by first loosen the needle chuck,Then turn in the spring tenion a juster till the slacks out of the trigger then reseat the needle and tighten the needle chuck nut. (don't tighten the spring tenion without releasing the needle chuck as you can split the nozzle because when you screw the spring in it would push the needle up into the nozzle of the brush)

excremente ... good point Basepaint. Makes sense when you think about it. Appreciate this good tip ...!!
 
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