High performance reducer

Draxden

Double Actioner
Hey guys. Im having the absolute worst luck. I recently purchased the 4012 high performance reducer. Which I was under the impression would act the same as the w100 wicked reducer. However, it causes the paint to dry way too quick inside the cup. For instance, by the time m ready to actually clean the cup out. The paint is flaking off. Causing the airbrush to become clogged at the nozzle.

I clean out my airbrush each time I use it. I make sure to clean it very well. I just went to use it, and it had paint dried up inside so bad I had to deep clean it. This never happened with the w100. Idk what to do at this point.

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What mixing ratio's are you using? Manufacturer recommends 10% by volume.
 
Wicked colors. I tried using 10% but the paint is just too thick. So I've tried 25, and 50%. All ratios cause the paint to become rubbery inside the cup. Which leads to clogging. I've never had this issue before with w100. Unless I just forgot to clean it

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OK so in the first instance I suspect the problem you have with the paint thickening up is you are using too much reducer. I does have a shelf life which means it causes a reaction. 72 hours at 10%. It appears different to W100. My recommendation would be start with the W100.
 
I mix my paint seconds before painting. I've done say 10 drops paint, 1 drop reducer it's too thick.

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I mix my paint seconds before painting. I've done say 10 drops paint, 1 drop reducer it's too thick.

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Yes I gathered that. I recommend you use a different reducer, probably the W100 as they are different products.
 
Ok. Sorry I read what you said incorrectly. That's what I was planning on doing, I just want sure if maybe someone else has had the same experience as me

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I've never had this problem using CI. I thin sometimes 1 paint to 10 reducer and still have no problem.
I would contact createx as it sounds maybe the HP reducer is somehow bad.
 
I always mix my paint and reducer in a little container, let sit for 5-10 mins, mix again , then put it in the brush.
I mix it 10-50% depending on the color.
 
you could try homemade brews.

i can only speak from my experience but i reduce up to 90% at times and have zero paint issues with homemade reducers for acrylic use.. ...my mix differs on needle size being used.. .5 and .8 ill keep it thicker for sure..

ammonia free windex
isopropyl alcohol
distilled water
glycerin

i was going to use car windshield wiper fluid but i had the csr run a chem check on it and it had <1% ammonia, so i passed.. the 100% ammonia free stuff the auto part store had was 4x the amount as windex from the grocer.

i get isopropyl alcohol from the auto part store though.. i can get 100% bottles there.. its in the detailing prep sections for vinyl wraps.. being im only using a few% (5-10%) it goes a long way. idk what the fillers are in the store bought ones that are 70-91%

this is the stuff.. 100%

347001-zoom.jpg


i use my mix as a reducer and cleaner..

but i made a separate cleaner which was originally my reducer, but it kept clogging n drying too easy...the mix was water and isopropyl alcohol heavy.. i use it to clean some..

basically this guy shows you the process.. i think i use less alcohol (higher % of IA) and a lil more glycerin.. it works for my paint, so i stick to my recipe. but the water/windex is about the same

 
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Please be careful and mask up if you are spraying Isopropyl or windex through your airbrush. It wasnt designed for atomization The pump bottles they're sold in aren't such a problem to lungs as they spray drops not highly atomised mist !
 
Please be careful and mask up if you are spraying Isopropyl or windex through your airbrush. It wasnt designed for atomization The pump bottles they're sold in aren't such a problem to lungs as they spray drops not highly atomised mist !

always do..
 
here was the ipa heavy recipe.. well kind of.. ill make his version once i get more funds for better paints and other ingredients...

 
Please be careful and mask up if you are spraying Isopropyl or windex through your airbrush. It wasnt designed for atomization The pump bottles they're sold in aren't such a problem to lungs as they spray drops not highly atomised mist !

like i replied, i do wear a mask..

but when there are flammable ingredients in commercial thinners.. id say the same advice should be given.. they are probably using IPA or some other alcohol themselves..
 
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I use a home made cleaner....
But I use de-natured alcohol. It is also called Methyl hydrate in some countries. I mix 1/3 alcohol to 2/3 distilled water.
 
like i replied, i do wear a mask..

but when there are flammable ingredients in commercial thinners.. id say the same advice should be given.. they are probably using IPA or some other alcohol themselves..
The reason @JackEb mentioned it is while you may wear a mask there are people who read this aren't smart enough to put two and two together. Most manufacturers will specifically warn against this practice. While I agree they have a vested interest in selling their product they also have a vested interest in keeping their users alive to use their products and reduce lawyers fees.

So in the interest of safety, lets make sure we all understand, this advice given regarding the manufacture of homebrews is done by people who have found a method that works for their brush however are not chemists and Suitable repository protection is required when using these products in atomised form. Read here correct respirator (not just a dust mask).
 
It's always best to use the recommended reducers (sorry not a fan of home made reducers) If not done correctly it can also cause paint failure, change the chemistry of the uv properties/binders etc.

W100 was discontinued a couple of years ago. The 4012 replaced it, there is an issue with the paint/reducer if it's "thickening" the paint. The recommended 10% is just a recommendation, you can use higher percentages of 4012.

edited: Heat and humidity will affect drying in the cup. Do you use your lid for the cup? That may help.
 
It's always best to use the recommended reducers (sorry not a fan of home made reducers) If not done correctly it can also cause paint failure, change the chemistry of the uv properties/binders etc.

W100 was discontinued a couple of years ago. The 4012 replaced it, there is an issue with the paint/reducer if it's "thickening" the paint. The recommended 10% is just a recommendation, you can use higher percentages of 4012.

edited: Heat and humidity will affect drying in the cup. Do you use your lid for the cup? That may help.
I just use throwaway cups to mix my paint. It just doesn't seem to work. I've tried all kinds of ratios. But after it dries it clogs

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I think you're using restorer and not 4012. Restorer creates a gross rubber reaction, not 4012

and for the record, the last time someone posted home brews they got blasted and I think the thread was deleted.
 
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