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Lion (fur) step by step using transparants

Discussion in 'Step by Step' started by haasje dutchairbrush, Apr 19, 2014.


  1. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    Straight forward coppy paste of the relevant parts of a lion step by step I posted a while back.



    Background

    I started out with searching for a reference photo where the light was a bit interesting (generaly these nature pics seem to be made to give the clearest image of the critter possible which doesn't make for any interesting shadows). With photoshop I cut out the part I wanted to paint (a lot less background :)) and adjusted the darklights a tad to get a bit more shadow and enriched the colors a tad.

    As this isn't going to be a portrait and no one will notice if I don't follow the reference exactly I used a beamer to get the basic scetch on the paper. When drawing the scetch I search out the light/dark areas and some reference lines with animals I also indicate the direction the furr/hair is going.

    For the background I used fleshtone to indicate the light /dark areas at the bottom. The top which is just dark had a 1st layer of sepia which I also used to make the transition between the light and dark area. With transparant yellow ocher I went over the whole light area. With transparant blue I went over the area's that had to be a tad greenish (yellow below a transparant blue = green). The top got a layer of brown ocher and burned umber.

    As the colors of the background where a tad to bright I did a white wash with a verry reduced transparant white to push it a bit back. With transparant yellow ocher I enriched the bottom a tad again and with burned umber the top.

    Layer1

    To make it easier for myself to keep the detail up I'll do the lion in parts. With the tiger this was a tad easier as you had the black stripes that easily defined the border between area's. In this case I'll take the transitions between light and dark in the face which means I'll have to do a tad larger area's than I'd like.

    With sepia I verry roughly mark out the darker areas after that I use daggers and dots to indicate the direction of the fur and color in the darker area's where needed trying to aproach the grey scale as much as possible. This means that if I would use photo shop to make a black and white image of my lion and the reference I'd want the grey's to come out the same.

    I do step 2 at the same time as constantly doing daggers and dots gets a tad boring. With an electrical erazor I further define the hairs keeping a close eye on the direction they go. With an erazor pencil I lighten the light area's and make the hair a tad fuzzier where needed. As there will be a couple of more layers I'm not too precise here except for the eye area's but I do keep a close eye on the direction of the hairs as they in a large part will be responsible for giving the illusion of depth and shape.

    Sommething I came up with but didn't try on the tiger is to use a water color pencil on the tad out of focus hairs. I apply quit a bit of pencil and go over it with a wet finger in the direction of the hair. This gives a nice out of focus effect (didn't use it much in this layer but will certainly use it more in the last few layers)

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    1. The 1st layer of sepia and erazong is done. While doing the sepia I try to stay as close to the greyscale as possible. The erazing of the hairs will ruin this but the light/dark areas will remain visible through them making it easier to stick to the correct light dark values in later steps. It will also keep shining through making the background hairs in the darker area's darker. Erazong in this steop is done with the pencil erazor to lighten where needed and to make hair a bit fuzzier/out of focus, the electrical erazor was used to do individual hairs and harder textures.

    2. With transparant yellow ocher, brown ocher and brickred ocher the first color is added I apply the colors roughly in the area's where its needed but am not too carefull yet as this is pure background and needed to give the hairs some debth. In the eyes I am a lot more carefull as not a lot more will be done there (eyes got yellow in the light area's and brown in the transition to the dark area's). Just to be sure, coloring it like this only works with transparants as opaques will just cover all the work you did before.

    3. With blue and sepia I went into the area's that are either white (around the nose) or where more whitish (top of the head). As the top of the head already had some yellow in it I used mainly sepia there as blue would become greenish. The dark around the eyes got some blue as did the shadow parts of the hair. I did deviate a tad from my reference here the top of the head was basicly the same color as the whole face but looking at some other pics of lions some had some other color here and I thought it would make for a more interesting picture (I do stick to the grey values and hair direction of the reference ofc)

    4. Another layer of erazing, a repeat of the erazing step before only a tad more carefull as this will remain a lot more visible.

    5. Yellow ocher as these will be the final color steps (except maybe some tweaking in the end) I'm nor pretty carefull with where I apply my color.

    6. Brown ocher

    7. red ocher

    8. With burned umber I did the darkes parts and applied shadow where needed (looking at the grey scales), I also did detail hairs (loads of daggers) where needed and in the transitions to the dark areas. With a mix of black and umber I detailed the area around the eyes a bit further.

    9. White washed the eyes. With a mix of +/- 1 white, 2 water, 2 base I "glazed over" the eyes

    10. With a verry reduced yellow ocher and brown ocher I added a bit more color back to the eyes where needed and redid the highlights.

    11. With an erazor pencil I lightened some areas and fuzzie dup the hair again, with an exacto knife I did the individual hairs. I do use an electrical erazor in this stage also but only in the verry light areas as with the electrical erazor you have a bit less controll than with a knife (it leaves a pretty clear start and end point)

    The work itself is considerably lighter than most posted pics as most were taken in the evening with my phone.


    Step by step wise I won't be able to add a lot to what I already posted as this will be just an endless repeat of what I already wrote (and though I wouldn't mind repeating myself 10 times over as I love to hear myself I hate typing :untroubled:)

    [​IMG]

    For the manes the process is the same as for the fur only I use longer strokes (pic 1 (sepia step) & 2 (erazing with erazor pencil and electrical erazor)) as the hairs are longer. Especialy in the 1st erazing layer make sure you do some hairs in random directions that don't go with the flow. Unless youre doing a model with perfect madeup hair there will always be some hairs going against the flow.

    With an exacto knife and a light blue pencil I did the individual hairs on top. The knife are for the "infocus" hairs and the ones with the pencils for those a tad in the background. In this stage I also "repair" those anoying dots you sometimes get at the start or end of an electrical erazor line. With the knife I make them to individual hairs camouflaging those dots. This will ofc only work if you do the background 1st :)

    A nice trick (use it a lot when doing human hair), take a couple of hairs you did with the pencil and go over a small part of it with an exacto knife, it will look as if the out of focus hair reflect a bit of light (watch out ofc you do this only in places where it could actual catch light)

    Got some more fur done. This was a repeat of the steps posted earlier, only at the end I went over the "light" shadow area with a reduced burned umber and the darker shadow areas with a mix of black and umber as the hairs in the last step would otherwise stand out too much. Don't over do this and make sure the paint is reduced enough else you run the risk of going to dark you want to have all the work you did before shine through and all the shadow area's should already be in there. This is just to prevent there from being white hairs in your dark area's.

    [​IMG]
    C0y0te likes this.
  2. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    The rightside of the head was done as described earlier. As this part seems to be slightly out of focus/blurry I refrained from adding too much detail with the exacto knife in the last phase and relied more on the erazor pencil which gives a more blurry effect.

    When doing a picture in phases like this it's a good idea to 1st think about the order in which you are going to do it to prevent one runing into problems later on (its a good idea to think about it however youre going to do it... I know it hurts :untroubled:).

    The chin has hairs going overlapping the manes. The manes inturn have hairs overlapping the small part of the body thats visible. Were I to continue with the head (which looks reasonably logical) I'd have to either paint all the manes between the hair of the chin or redo all the hairs in the chin that fall over the manes. To prevent this I'll do the body now 1st and than the manes under the chin. After that I'll 1st finish the face as the manes on the right side partly fall over the face again.

    The dark hairs / manes on the body I 1st did with sepia (and this is just a question of loads of dagger strokes/long lines), after that the same again with burned umber. This didn't look dark enough so it got another layer of daggers with a mix of umber and black. When doing hairs like this I try to reduce my paint as little as possible and cranck up the air pressure that way you can put down the lines quickly in one stroke. A pencil or brush would ofc also have been an option but I only thought of that when I was already done :ambivalence:

    [​IMG]

    Probably the last step by step for this one, the whiskers.

    [​IMG]

    With the tiger I did before this one I did the whiskers partly with an electrical erazor as that is a tad prone to error I wanted to try a different aproach (not involving one :)).

    1. With a white aquarel pencil I drew in the basic shape of the whiskers.
    2. With a blue greyish aquarel pencil I drew a small shadow line on the whiskers (keep an eye out for where they cros eachother you don't want a shadow line from a hair going through the hair thats on top)
    3. With white I went over the whiskers (reduced my white quit a bit and reduced the air presure so I had the control to slowly follow the lines)
    4. With a mix of black and burned umber I faded the whiskers into the fur (good thing they seem to startout black and than turn light) With an exacto knife I did some highlights
    5. The same as in step 3 but now with transparant yellow ocher to color them a tad.

    A. Most of you will be familiar with this but I thought I'd show it anyway :). As the nose area is going to be mostly white and pretty tight (no overlapping hairs sticking out) I didn't want any brown overspray from the manes there (the chin area below it has a lot of hairs sticking out so I didn't mask that as overspray there is actualy usefull to blend it). Using a transparant piece of paper I coppied the area I wanted to mask and cut it out. As I didn't want a realy hard masking line here I made sure the mask was lifted a tad from the paper.

    The face is done only the agony of yet more hair left :). As you can see with the hairs overlapping each other (mentioned earlier) it's important to do the parts in the right order.

    [​IMG]

    Finished piece:



    [​IMG]
  3. beanpoleuk

    beanpoleuk Elite Member! Elite Member! Artist of the Month! Very Likeable!

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    Brilliant, fantastic work and very very helpful..

    Thanks for sharing
  4. Raidok

    Raidok Double Actioner

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    Amazing work! This is exactly how i wanted the step by step to be.
    Kamil likes this.
  5. MeeshellMP

    MeeshellMP Goddess Queen of carts Mod

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    Absolutely outstanding work as usual!!! Such an amazing good job!!!
  6. Iceman

    Iceman Spider Splatterer

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    man that is incredible and the detail is AWESOME maybe some year I might get to that level
  7. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    Awesome sauce!
  8. WhiteKnight

    WhiteKnight Code Dragon Slayer Admin

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    Love your step by step hasje, and your the first to post in the new forum section cheers :)
  9. Rees

    Rees Elite Member! Elite Member!

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    Awesome step by step! I hope to see more!
  10. Bossman

    Bossman Spider Splatterer

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    I would be curious how you would adjust your tek if you were working with a substrate that doesn't allow good erasing.

    T-shirts for one.
  11. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    If the surface I was working on wouldn't allow for erasing I would first ask myself if this would be the right technique to go about it as it is for a large part based on erasing.

    You could use the above technique with transparants if you would exchange all the erasing with painting with white (used it a couple of times on bikes). This is a <insert random abusive remark> load more work though if you were to do it with an airbrush. I used an old brush instead. If you make sure there is hardly any paint on it you can easily achieve lots of hairs with it (dry brushing).

    Made a little movie about it a while back as I find it hard to explain :): http://www.dutchairbrush.nl/downloads/drybrush.MOV

    This one I did a couple of years back using the above technique:

    [​IMG]
    Kamil and Kat Wolffpack like this.
  12. Jar

    Jar Spider Splatterer

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    wow. Simple splendid!
  13. Bossman

    Bossman Spider Splatterer

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    Wow, that was a great answer!!!!!!
  14. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

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    When I grow up I want to be like you haasje. But I'm too immature to grow up so I will never be as awesome as you.
  15. Mr.Micron

    Mr.Micron Royal pain in the air hose Admin

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    This is a outstanding step by step . very well done.
  16. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    Still waiting to grow up myself... should be fun a lot of people seem to do it :tickled_pink:
  17. Boltcase

    Boltcase Detail Decepticon!

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    Growing up is overrated...STAY YOUNG!!! Great Step by Step Haasje. Thank you very much for taking the time and effort to post these! Its very much appreciated. :)
  18. brookss1967

    brookss1967 Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    I have read this step by step four times and spent hours studying the reference pictures preparing to paint a tiger . I've spent 4 nights on my under drawing and if I 'm not drawing I'm studying my reference photo. I am hoping to do 1/8 as good as Haasje but I will be satisfied if it just resembles a tiger. But if I fail at that , atleast I will be an authority on the facail hair growth patterns of an adult male tiger.
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  19. brookss1967

    brookss1967 Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    @haasje dutchairbrush : By the way thank you for putting together such an informative Step by step , I plan to refer to it often while I attempt to paint my tiger. At the very least I already look at my reference photo differently and see things I might have missed before . So thank you Sir , your time and effort are appreciated.
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  20. AndreZA

    AndreZA Elite Member! Elite Member! Artist of the Month!

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    Absolutely crazy task. It came out awesome. Thanks for taking the time to write this out.
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