DaveG
Airbush Analyst
I have been playing with inexpensive import airbrushes for some time now, and have found a build that I really quite enjoy. The first one(s) I tried were "B" sized cup (2cc) brushes, with integrated MAC valve. I then tried several "C" sized (9cc) brushes of the same or similar construction. After some very successful trials and tests with some of these brushes, I set sights on trying to find a side feed brush.
If you are on Facebook, I have a new page (DaveG's Airbrush Exploration) where I am testing and writing about many of the brushes I own, please feel free to stop by and check it out for more info : https://www.facebook.com/davegs.airbrush.exploration/
By simply comparing visual clues in on line adds, I decided on a "Master" branded SB86, which I purchased off an Ebay listing for $42US with free delivery. Before you read further, I will say that I love this brush. Unfortunately, unlike the others I have purchased up till this time, I had to do a decent amount of alteration and tweaking to this brush to make it work the way that I wanted it to. I don't consider much of what I did difficult, but may fall out of the realm of what most people would want to do with an airbrush...
Upon arrival I could confirm that the build is the same as some of the other brushes I have had success with. There are so many of these brushes that "look" the same, that are in fact very different - so, I was happy that I got the build I was looking for.
Starting at the beginning, the finish on this brush is not as clean as most of them I have gotten thus far. It looks like it was probably dirty when it went in for plating, and it didn't get better from there. I can live with that if the brush works well enough to make me happy, so carrying on... The trigger is the same as the previous versions, and I really like it. It is fairly soft, and responsive out of the box, and with just a little cleaning and spring tweaking it can be fantastic in feel and responsiveness. Not quite as good as an Iwata with soft spring, but not far behind either.
The brush comes standard with a large (and heavy) 20cc side cup. The feed stem that plugs into the brush is a larger diameter than a standard Iwata color cup. This meant that I would have to actually alter the brush to work the way that I want it to...
I machined a press in bushing out of Delrin for one side of the brush. Using the Delrin, which is very wear resistant and durable, allowed me to size the through hole to fit the stem of the Iwata color cup. As the bushing was pressed into the brush, it was squeezed in by the brushes hole taper, thus creating a perfect taper to the hole in the bushing to snugly hold and seal the stem of the Iwata cup (and any others with a similar sized feed stem).
I pressed the bushing far enough into the brush body, that I was able to remove the head assembly from the brush, and cut the inner surface to be flush with the interior of the brush. Because it is a tight press fit, no paint or cleaner can wick up behind the insert. I left the opposing side of the brush in the standard size, utilizing the factory plug to seal it. Two reasons for this - 1: I can still use the large cup if I want, and 2: I can pop the inserted bushing out the other side by using a punch through the larger side. Bushing installed, the brush now accepts Iwata color cups like it was meant to be.
The head assembly on this one was a big let down when compared to close to a dozen others I have tested. the nozzle is by far the most off center. The needle did not look terrible, but results with initial spraying where simply disappointing. It felt like the brush was having trouble establishing a good suction to draw paint in. So, this is where I really had to go to work... For most, I would have called it quits at this point, and suggested trying another brush. If you have seen any of my other write up's on this style brush, well, then you know that this brush will also accept a genuine Olympos, or Iwata Micron head assembly and needle. I did test this brush with a .23 Iwata head assembly, but continued working with the factory head to get things sorted out. (An additional note here: These brushes use a thin O-ring to seal the head assembly to the brush. If you replace the head with a name brand one, the seal does not work. You need to use either bee's wax, or a turn and half of Teflon tape around the threads on the head assembly.)
I previously made myself a tool for slipping around the nozzle post to aid in centering the nozzle on these heads. I did this while the brush body was chucked up in a lathe, and indicated center prior to tweaking away to try to center the nozzle. It took a good bit of tweaking to bring this one in, but I was eventually satisfied with the way it looked when done. Almost decided to hit it with a hammer to turn it all into a large smear, but kept cool just long enough to make it pay off.
Second round of testing had the brush producing a satisfactorily fine line - but, it would skip and pulse. After some additional testing with searching for an air leak, I found that the factory filler plug on the opposite side of the brush was allowing air to be drawn in. I turned it's OD down a bit, and sleeved it with Delrin, and it now seals perfectly, and the brushes performance came around accordingly.
Some quick initial testing of the now completed brush is showing some real promise. I enjoy the trigger on this build of brush, and have found a sweet spot that works quite well for me. I find the atomization to be smooth enough that color blends and fades look good, without freckling or graining in the pattern. Line weight for a line that I can pull continuously without it starting to break up is approximately the same as I get from am Iwata .23 set up - although the Micron makes me work less to get there. For $42US, and maybe an hour of tweaking, I am quite pleased with the out come, thus far.
I am just now beginning a new painting using this brush, and feel pretty optimistic about the outcome.
If you are on Facebook, I have a new page (DaveG's Airbrush Exploration) where I am testing and writing about many of the brushes I own, please feel free to stop by and check it out for more info : https://www.facebook.com/davegs.airbrush.exploration/
By simply comparing visual clues in on line adds, I decided on a "Master" branded SB86, which I purchased off an Ebay listing for $42US with free delivery. Before you read further, I will say that I love this brush. Unfortunately, unlike the others I have purchased up till this time, I had to do a decent amount of alteration and tweaking to this brush to make it work the way that I wanted it to. I don't consider much of what I did difficult, but may fall out of the realm of what most people would want to do with an airbrush...
Upon arrival I could confirm that the build is the same as some of the other brushes I have had success with. There are so many of these brushes that "look" the same, that are in fact very different - so, I was happy that I got the build I was looking for.
Starting at the beginning, the finish on this brush is not as clean as most of them I have gotten thus far. It looks like it was probably dirty when it went in for plating, and it didn't get better from there. I can live with that if the brush works well enough to make me happy, so carrying on... The trigger is the same as the previous versions, and I really like it. It is fairly soft, and responsive out of the box, and with just a little cleaning and spring tweaking it can be fantastic in feel and responsiveness. Not quite as good as an Iwata with soft spring, but not far behind either.
The brush comes standard with a large (and heavy) 20cc side cup. The feed stem that plugs into the brush is a larger diameter than a standard Iwata color cup. This meant that I would have to actually alter the brush to work the way that I want it to...
I machined a press in bushing out of Delrin for one side of the brush. Using the Delrin, which is very wear resistant and durable, allowed me to size the through hole to fit the stem of the Iwata color cup. As the bushing was pressed into the brush, it was squeezed in by the brushes hole taper, thus creating a perfect taper to the hole in the bushing to snugly hold and seal the stem of the Iwata cup (and any others with a similar sized feed stem).
I pressed the bushing far enough into the brush body, that I was able to remove the head assembly from the brush, and cut the inner surface to be flush with the interior of the brush. Because it is a tight press fit, no paint or cleaner can wick up behind the insert. I left the opposing side of the brush in the standard size, utilizing the factory plug to seal it. Two reasons for this - 1: I can still use the large cup if I want, and 2: I can pop the inserted bushing out the other side by using a punch through the larger side. Bushing installed, the brush now accepts Iwata color cups like it was meant to be.
The head assembly on this one was a big let down when compared to close to a dozen others I have tested. the nozzle is by far the most off center. The needle did not look terrible, but results with initial spraying where simply disappointing. It felt like the brush was having trouble establishing a good suction to draw paint in. So, this is where I really had to go to work... For most, I would have called it quits at this point, and suggested trying another brush. If you have seen any of my other write up's on this style brush, well, then you know that this brush will also accept a genuine Olympos, or Iwata Micron head assembly and needle. I did test this brush with a .23 Iwata head assembly, but continued working with the factory head to get things sorted out. (An additional note here: These brushes use a thin O-ring to seal the head assembly to the brush. If you replace the head with a name brand one, the seal does not work. You need to use either bee's wax, or a turn and half of Teflon tape around the threads on the head assembly.)
I previously made myself a tool for slipping around the nozzle post to aid in centering the nozzle on these heads. I did this while the brush body was chucked up in a lathe, and indicated center prior to tweaking away to try to center the nozzle. It took a good bit of tweaking to bring this one in, but I was eventually satisfied with the way it looked when done. Almost decided to hit it with a hammer to turn it all into a large smear, but kept cool just long enough to make it pay off.
Second round of testing had the brush producing a satisfactorily fine line - but, it would skip and pulse. After some additional testing with searching for an air leak, I found that the factory filler plug on the opposite side of the brush was allowing air to be drawn in. I turned it's OD down a bit, and sleeved it with Delrin, and it now seals perfectly, and the brushes performance came around accordingly.
Some quick initial testing of the now completed brush is showing some real promise. I enjoy the trigger on this build of brush, and have found a sweet spot that works quite well for me. I find the atomization to be smooth enough that color blends and fades look good, without freckling or graining in the pattern. Line weight for a line that I can pull continuously without it starting to break up is approximately the same as I get from am Iwata .23 set up - although the Micron makes me work less to get there. For $42US, and maybe an hour of tweaking, I am quite pleased with the out come, thus far.
I am just now beginning a new painting using this brush, and feel pretty optimistic about the outcome.
Last edited:
., but you have alot of informative information there and i appericiate you taking the time to do it. Now if someone could tweak a HF brush that would be cool but i think those are a lost cause. I only like them because they are small in daimeter and i have small hands.
