For Every Airbrush Artist!

Ready to get involved? Register for free and you won't see any google advertising!

Register

Nymph (foilage/skin sbs)

Discussion in 'Step by Step' started by haasje dutchairbrush, Mar 1, 2015.


  1. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    2,865
    Likes Received:
    5,326
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Netherlands
    The painting isn't finished yet but I thought I'd put all the sbs I did on it sofar in the correct section for future reference (and I need a break from painting hair :p)

    Foilage

    [​IMG]

    1. Before starting on this I gathered some references of forests (some for shapes and details others for color and atmosphere). I scetched the general shape I want the forest to be in and am now picking different parts from references I like and put them in the painting. As this is "just the background" I didn't make a elaborate scetch and am just winging it as I'm reasonably confident I'll be able to pull that off :D. If one is going for rather safe than sorry draw it all out first.

    I start mapping out the general shapes/forms and lights and darks taking a lot of peeks at the references for idea's. In this case I used a mix of sepia and burnt umber. As I'll be using transparants everything done now will influence what is layered on top including the color. Only sepia would be too cold and I was afraid using only umber would make it to warm as all subsequent colors will also be in the "warm range". So the solution was to mix the two :p

    For the parts where I will have foilage I used a texture FX stencil and some torn appart scotchbrite to lay down some initial texture (this is just filler that saves a ot of time) after that I did a whole lot of scribling to add more texture and soften up the masks (in the end I dn't want it visible that a mask was used).

    As this is nature I ry to keep it a bit chaotic, I do keep an eye on the general balance but try to avoid a designed look. Especialy for the branches in the background i just randomly put some lines down. I already decided that this is the "background of the background" and I'll add some branches going over this when it's finished to add some more depth. If I end up with a part I don't like I'll just cover it up with those branches.

    While doing this I try to keep in mind the direction of the light which is indicated by the not yet visible nymph (important as its easy to get distracted/coppy the light of the reference one is staring at)

    2. The ground was done in the same manner. The debrish on the ground was done after the basic texture/light and darks was in. I just drew some lines with an electrical erasor, added some shadow and fogged them over a bit.

    3. With a pencil erasor I added more texture and tried to get rid of the remaining mask outlines where they were still noticable. This is just some random scribling but I keep in mind my light source and do some more/harder scribling in those area's I want as my lighter areas.

    4. For the ground I did the same only here I was a tad more carefull with the direction I scribbled in (has to follow the direction of the ground). I roughly went over the trees in the foreground to add some texture and the "illusion" of detail. just a few rough strokes will do for this, I don't want to get too detailed here as itis stilla background and shouldn't distract from the foreground later on.

    5. I aded the light beams shining through the foilage with the erasor pencil and a big fat erasor :p

    6. With the electrical erasor I added (scribling) some more detail especialy in the light areas of the foilage and the sun beams.

    7. 1st layer of paint and erasing is in next will be adding the 1st layer of color.


    Foilage pt 2
    the photo's are a bit crappy, i had to make them with my phone and colors change a bit depending on the time of the dag and wether the sun is out or not but it should give a general idea :).

    [​IMG]

    1. For the foilage I started out with yellow ocher. the parts that are leafs are hit considerably harder than the background areas, the light ray's where hit even less (just added a slight bit of color). The ground was also hit lightly with this followed by a layer of brown ocher with a drop of brickred ocher. While in the foilage area I realy just fogged area's on the ground I was more carefull and did a lot of detail scribling especialy in the shadow areas.

    2. With burnt umber I added some more detail on the ground area, I also used this to fog in some shape on the ground.

    3. I mixed E'tac rainforest green with illustration vile green to get the green shade I wanted (rain forest green is realy bright and the vile green toned that down). As in step 1 the foilage was hit harder than the background especialy the shadow areas. The light ray's where spared with this color 9they are only going to get hit with yellows). In the shadow areas of the foilage I also scribbled some shadow/detail with it.

    4. The ground was hit with this color also (in some spots) just to get a bit more color variation going (I just fogged it in where I thought it was needed). The edge of the ground was hit pretty hard with this color to fade it into the background and create the illusion the ground fades away into the forest. As the green wasn't enough to get that effect I also went in with burnt umber to enhance the effect. The umber was also used to add some shadows on the floor from trees that are out of frame.

    5. With a paencil erasor I lightened/texturised up the highlight parts of the foilage and considerably lightened the sun ray's. in the background I scribbled a bit to get some more texture going. I considered adding more detail to the ground but that looked good as it was so I left that for what it was.

    6. In the foilage I added some detail with the electrical erasor in the parts that were hit with the pencil erasor. in the background the electrical erasor was used to scrible a bit more detail, especialy in the sunray's.

    7. With a mix of yellow ocher and culebra gold I hit the areas where I used the erasors. The background and sunray's where also hit with this (the spots with ray's a bit less). the whole ground area was fogged over a tad with this to give it a bit more wamth. As the areas between the foilage in the background had become a tad to warm I added a lot of transparant white to the mix and fogged over those areas (I made sure not to hit the light ray's with this)

    8. To create more depth I used an electrical erasor to erase some branches and leafs (if I hadn't done this I think I would have needed to spend some more time on the back ground making it more detailed and creating some more depth)

    9. With burnt Umber I colored in the branches. I added a few drops of green to get a dark green. i scribbed some detail throughout the foilage. I fogged in a transition from the shadows to the lighter areas. To give the foilage some more boday and have dark detail going I scribled foilage in the shadow areas below the parts that I had erased.

    10. I used rainbow green and vile green again to color the foilage. I added less vile green as this part is alowed to be a bit brighter green.

    11. With the electrical erasor some more detail leafs were scribled in the lighter area's of the foilage.

    12. The parts i just erased where colored with a mix of culebra gold and yellow ocher. I fogged over all this new foilage to blend it all a bit.
    jord001, Vladimir, triskel and 3 others like this.
  2. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    2,865
    Likes Received:
    5,326
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Skin tone

    [​IMG]

    1. With the umber I mapped out the lights and darks this by default means the lighter areas get hit less hard. The realy bright highlights are avoided (I don't mind a little overspray there) and the light range of the midtones (everything close to highlight) gets either hit by overspray or fogged over very very lightly (I need this for texture and a bit of consistancy in color).

    2. Highlights were applied where needed (electrical erasor) and textures created (erasor pencil). The textures were applied pretty hard in the lighter areas and transitions to the highlights. In the dark areas I was very carefull, i don't want to go back to white there but just get some slightly lighter texture in the umber.

    3. With fleshtone I hit everything so the texture I made (erased) now got flesh color. The areas where I hardly or marginaly used umber got hit pretty hard (transitions dark-midtones). I now have flesh tone in the lighter areas and can erase texture in that.

    4. Once again the highlights were patched up where needed. I added texture again but now only in the areas that were mainly avoided with the umber in the previous stage. I don't hit the darks as I want the texture there to remain skin toned.

    5. With the lights and darks in it's time to add some color (forgot to take pics of each color :cry:). The darker areas tend to get hit harder with the colors than the lighter areas. I mainly fog over areas till the have the tone I want them to have normaly I would checkthe reference a lot while doing this, but as this is fantasy I mainly applied it so it would look good.

    -For colors I used (all transpartants else I would ruin all the work I did before):
    *Brick red ocher (E'tac). this was applied generously especialy in the dark areas. This was also used to do some detail work on the lips and the eyes.
    *Yellow ocher. Just used to apply color.
    *Brown ocher. Just used to apply color.
    *Sepia. Some color beneath the eyes and some detail work in the eyes.
    *Green. Eye shade above the eyes (just thought it would look cool :))

    6. To blend everyting a bit I "white washed" everything (1transparant white, 3 transparant base, 3 water). As I didn't mask off the background I was very carefull around the edges :p

    7. With sepia I darkened up some of the shadows where needed (only emphasize them and stick to the realy dark areas, stay away from midtones and highlights) and started on the fine detail (with portraits that is generaly only the eyes. ears and mouth). I could have used umber for this but as I already did the first step in that color I choose for sepia to get some more variation in color going.

    8. highlight and detail time. With erasors (electrical. pencil and fiberglass) I add the last details and textures in the lighter areas (only areas around the eyes are more or less finished here). When I get to the mouth I'll probably use red ocher to give it a bit more vibrance and detail.
    doc1, Eveliina and Oddball like this.
  3. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    2,865
    Likes Received:
    5,326
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Netherlands
    Repair time
    As most people seem to freak out when they make a mistake i thought i'd do a small sbs on this also (shows almost every mistake can be fixed)

    I normaly check my paintings regulary by making a picture and mirroring it. it gives a fresh look and suddenly all small mistakes become apearant. For reasons unknown (ok I'm just stupid :p) I didn't do this while working on the nymph as I wasn't realy trying to coppy the reference.

    When I did mirror it when it was almost finished i noticed the nose looked wrong. I used photoshop to check a picture of the painting by putting it over the reference and noticed I probably used a scetch line that indicated a shadow as the bottom of the right nostril.

    [​IMG]

    1. I cut out a mask with the correct shape.
    2. With a burntumber and sepia mix (basicly the colors that were applied there in the previous layers) I redid the "top" of the nostrils.
    3. The bottom of the right nostril had to go a lot higher. If I were just to go over it with paint I would still see the old transition (as I'm using transparants, with an opaque one can ofc just cover it up). So I used an erasor pencil to get rid of the line that existed between the light and darks.
    4. With the same mix the shaddow was put in.
    5. I messed around a bit freehand to hide the masking lines. I'l lighten the inside of the right nostril a bit later on when I'm doing something else that has the correct color to do that.
    doc1, jord001, Vladimir and 3 others like this.
  4. Diegojavbau

    Diegojavbau Air-Valve Autobot!

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2012
    Messages:
    5,491
    Likes Received:
    4,107
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Berisso , Buenos Aires , Argentina
    I want to kiss you , thanks a lot !!
    haasje dutchairbrush and Oddball like this.
  5. TattooGabby

    TattooGabby Spider Splatterer

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2014
    Messages:
    104
    Likes Received:
    59
    Trophy Points:
    26
    Location:
    Deutschland
  6. haasje dutchairbrush

    haasje dutchairbrush Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2013
    Messages:
    2,865
    Likes Received:
    5,326
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Netherlands
    I was asked in a private message how I did the moss on the rocks. As Ihave written the answer I might as well post it here also.

    I started documenting this but at a certain point just forgot to take pictures so I don't have pictures off all steps.

    In this case it was background so I didn't realy paint moss, I just added color. With paintings where this much is going on I learned to be carefull to add not too much detail to the background as the foreground needs to be more detailed and sharper than the background else it will look wrong/wierd.

    1. Using the spickle technique I layed down some texture (reduce the air pressure till there isn't enough to atomise the paint completely). Not much of this will remain visible but it does add to the texture in the end.

    A mix of grey and a little black was used for this (the grey from the bottle was too light)

    2. With normal grey I mapped out shape and forms and added more texture.

    3. With a pencil erasor and sand paper I added more texture.

    4. Next I went in with color and this is where the moss effect is created. For the parts hat would remain rock I fogged in some sepia and burnt umber (just lightly to add some color difference)

    For the moss I used a brown green (don't want bright/pure green in a background) this I fogged in more thickly. The lights and darks put in earlier remained visible but less so than with the rock parts as I covered this pretty thickly. To get the moss effect i wanted the shados and shapes to remainvisible but a lot less than in the acual rock parts as moss is soft. For the moss I went in with a fiberglass pen to add some more texture and covered this with a yellow ocher.

    5. With a mix of sepia/burnt umber/grey I added detail and shadow to the rock parts. In the moss parts I didn't add detail (wanted it to remain soft) but fogged in those parts a bit where I wanted to enhance the shadows/shapes.

    [​IMG]
    jord001, Vladimir, doc1 and 4 others like this.
  7. wmlepage

    wmlepage Elite Member! Elite Member!

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2012
    Messages:
    4,018
    Likes Received:
    2,087
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Rochester, NH USA
    Amazing use of colors and how to achieve the total outcome. Thank you!
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  8. Squishy

    Squishy Queen Clown Slayer Mod

    Joined:
    May 8, 2012
    Messages:
    11,580
    Likes Received:
    8,565
    Trophy Points:
    126
    Location:
    Hampshire South Coast UK
    Thanks for your endless generosity in sharing your knowledge and skill. Total legend.
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  9. IPT

    IPT Mac-Valve Maestro! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2013
    Messages:
    921
    Likes Received:
    1,137
    Trophy Points:
    91
    amazing. I will aspire to create the type of stuff you displayed. Thanks for posting it.
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  10. Oddball

    Oddball Detail Decepticon!

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2014
    Messages:
    1,396
    Likes Received:
    1,124
    Trophy Points:
    111
    Location:
    North Wales, UK
    Fantastic, thanks for sharing :)
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  11. frowan

    frowan Needle-chuck Ninja

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2013
    Messages:
    240
    Likes Received:
    270
    Trophy Points:
    61
    Location:
    Argentina
    thanks for sharing us
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  12. triskel

    triskel Needle-chuck Ninja

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2012
    Messages:
    138
    Likes Received:
    345
    Trophy Points:
    61
    Location:
    Gijón (Spain)
    Wow ! thx a lot and beautiful work
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  13. Patrick Van Laere

    Patrick Van Laere Young Tutorling

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2016
    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    18
    Trophy Points:
    1
    Location:
    BELGIUM
    Nice thanks for sharing, I love your work !!!!!!
    haasje dutchairbrush likes this.
  14. Micha der Wolf

    Micha der Wolf Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2015
    Messages:
    1,448
    Likes Received:
    2,388
    Trophy Points:
    111
    Location:
    Germany
    Thanks for sharing I love your style!
  15. Chris g

    Chris g Double Actioner

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2012
    Messages:
    98
    Likes Received:
    27
    Trophy Points:
    16
    Location:
    France
    Another great piece of work. Love the softness of the light and background in the forest and the contrast with the details in the foreground.

    Thanks for the insight.

Share This Page