Rust-O 2x clear

Robbyrockett2

Air-Valve Autobot!
So a bunch of you guys had been saying you liked the Rust-oleum 2x paint (enamel btw) . It's been Idk a long time since i used any. I had a piece i was working on that will be a male plug to make a permanent female mold so rather than drive to the shop I just sprayed it with that on a table in the yard since 1. its gonna have to be cut and buffed no matter what because male mold plugs must be as perfect as is within your ability and 2 .it will be thrown away anyhow.

I was reminded how incredibly easy this stuff is to work with, I prepped only to 320 grit, sprayed two light coats and bam, slick. It does get a bit orange peely if you need more coats which could be probably worked around by sanding before your final two light coats if you need it thicker but anyhow bottom line The easiest clear to get smooth, ever.


I know tons of people here use it and and like it. I just had to re-iterate that it is soooo easy to lay down.

Bad parts
By no stretch of the imagination is it a high gloss lustrous clear
Its enamel

Anyway , now it has its own thread so lovers, haters, comments welcome.
 
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@Robbyrockett2 The rule is the right tool for the right job. Love it or hate it, if it worked for you, it was the right tool. Job well done.:thumbsup:
I am just thankful you used it outdoors!
It's a push that they put the word gloss on the can so I'm not sure what else I'd use it for besides maybe artwork or maybe black for touching up the mower deck or something but it would actually be difficult to mess up spraying it, it is that easy.
 
Actually, I take that back. I sprayed some in the shop this morning and just checked and the gloss level is....fair to pretty good. I guess the humidity killed the gloss.
 
Actually, I take that back. I sprayed some in the shop this morning and just checked and the gloss level is....fair to pretty good. I guess the humidity killed the gloss.
Sounds about right. IME Enamels hate water. Had some enamels not adhere due to condensation I didn't bother to check for or the finish looked funny because of moisture.:eek:ops:
 
I just sprayed this bowling pin with it!
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LOL thats awesome! Hmm durability test :)
Here in a couple days ill know how it cuts and buffs. Never really had occasion to cut and buff AE before because if its serious enough to cut and buff I wouldnt normally use AE.
I thought Id post about it mainly because I know this might be one of the few clear options some people have and I'm taking it through all the steps to a serious finish even though its throw away. So who knows , might be able to recommend it for more things.
How much have you used it?

Oh and isnt it awesome how 3d rivets look on metallics. Always surprises me how easily they just pop.
No pun intended.
 
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Well, as to be expected... It's a bit soft for any serious work. So i'm going to see how well it responds to baking. I have a whole bunch of phillips 250W heat-ray lamps in cheapo clamp on reflectors. I think each one totals $10-$15 with bulb and reflector. So its easily within reach for people who dont have the equipment to 2k clear their stuff.
We will see how it does.
Also as to be expected even if the results are great
It is more trouble than its worth if you have the option to 2k clear.....I wont be using it much in the future.
 
Well baked it, hard to say exactly the temp but probably only 150-180F for a couple hours. Brought the gloss out even more.
Preliminary... id say that with the baking effort this stuff is probably close to some low dollar 2k for most applications. Just based on the sheen and hardness.....not looking at solvent resistance or obviously I have no idea about long term UV or anything like that.
All in all a viable option if its what youve got to work with.
 
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Well baked it, hard to say exactly the temp but probably only 150-180F for a couple hours. Brought the gloss out even more.
Preliminary... id say that with the baking effort this stuff is probably close to some low dollar 2k for most applications. Just based on the sheen and hardness.....not looking at solvent resistance or obviously I have no idea about long term UV or anything like that.
All in all a viable option if its what youve got to work with.
Baking would likely melt my plastic models, but should work on some of my other projects just fine. They're half-baked anyway. :sus:
 
Baking would likely melt my plastic models, but should work on some of my other projects just fine. They're half-baked anyway. :sus:
LOL, well
The TDS is saying full adhesion and cure on plastic in 5-7 days and the dry heat resistance is only 200F. So I probably am not getting it any harder than if it just sat for a week indoors rather than baking.
Though idk the xylene might not be safe on some models anyhow.
 
Baking would likely melt my plastic models, but should work on some of my other projects just fine. They're half-baked anyway. :sus:
I wonder if you could possibly microwave them? Way many moons ago I remember something about that?

Tip: do not apply bare metal foil until after the microwave process! :thumbsup:
 
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