So I bought some Restorer.

[JonasCalhoun]

Hi gang. I've got some deep clogs in my Eclipse--I've been spraying acrylics and enamels without a deep clean between. So I bought myself some Createx restorer to just nuke the whole thing. What's the best way? Strip it down and wipe with the restorer, shoot it through, or should I put it in my ultrasonic cleaner for a few minutes? I'm concerned about soaking and O-rings.


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[Mr.Micron]

The only thing you put in the restorer is the Nozzle.... You let it soak for a while and use the needle to move the junk out of the nozzle.
Never spray Restorer in the air . Never soak the entire airbrush in it unless you want to replace all the rubber seals that are in it . The only teflon seal is the needle bearing .
Are the enamels water base ? If not you just need some acetone which you can go to any dollar tree and look in the finger nail polish remover to pick up a bottle of 100% acetone for a dollar.That you can put in the cup and let it soak out anything in that area. then dump it . then as with the restorer give the nozzle a good soaking in it all by itself.
If you are going from an oil base paint to a water based paint always clean your airbrush with the correct cleaners .

 

[JonasCalhoun]

Yep--was just in a hurry. The clog is down in the body. I've got some brushes and I'll go at it with the acetone. I was at the store, saw the restorer and picked it up anyway. Good to know on the o-rings. Thanks!


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[Leakyvalve]

Yep--was just in a hurry. The clog is down in the body. I've got some brushes and I'll go at it with the acetone. I was at the store, saw the restorer and picked it up anyway. Good to know on the o-rings. Thanks!


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I've said this a few times, but Restorer is the most God Awful substance in my collection of airbrush chemicals. It is a last ditch effort chemical.

If you end up using any restorer, make 100% sure every hint of that stuff is gone gone gone.

If any paint comes in contact with that stuff, even a micro film you didn't get wiped out in the bowl or paint channel, it will turn into the worst tar like slime you ever seen. You wanna talk about frustration, try getting a bowl of acrylic tar outta your airbrush.

 

[Mr.Micron]

I've said this a few times, but Restorer is the most God Awful substance in my collection of airbrush chemicals. It is a last ditch effort chemical.

If you end up using any restorer, make 100% sure every hint of that stuff is gone gone gone.

If any paint comes in contact with that stuff, even a micro film you didn't get wiped out in the bowl or paint channel, it will turn into the worst tar like slime you ever seen. You wanna talk about frustration, try getting a bowl of acrylic tar outta your airbrush.

That is why it is only recommended to soak a clogged nozzle and not the entire airbrush..
I have not had any issue while using restorer to clean a nozzle. and I only made the mistake of soaking my Eclipse cs Once and only once but now all the rubber o-rings have been replace and it works great again.

 

[Leakyvalve]

That is why it is only recommended to soak a clogged nozzle and not the entire airbrush..
I have not had any issue while using restorer to clean a nozzle. and I only made the mistake of soaking my Eclipse cs Once and only once but now all the rubber o-rings have been replace and it works great again.

I remember soaking something in some restorer and the rubber got totally destroyed.

Also, I don't think people picking it up understand just what it is. It's not a between colors cleaner or a mild soap. It's serious stuff.

 

[JonasCalhoun]

It's serious stuff.

That was what I was hoping for--like I said, nuke it from orbit. I've got extra o rings and such, but I won't soak the body--was hoping to. It's a giant bottle, so I figured it was for soaking. Oh well.


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[Mr.Micron]

I remember soaking something in some restorer and the rubber got totally destroyed.

Also, I don't think people picking it up understand just what it is. It's not a between colors cleaner or a mild soap. It's serious stuff.

That it is and to me kind of smells like brake fluid which will also cut a paint job on a car faster then most would think...

But I do agree I only use it if and when I have a clog I can not get out and then only on the nozzle...

 

[Mr.Micron]

That was what I was hoping for--like I said, nuke it from orbit. I've got extra o rings and such, but I won't soak the body--was hoping to. It's a giant bottle, so I figured it was for soaking. Oh well.


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Nope but you can just pour what you use back in the bottle (I filter mine) and it will last a long long time. I bought my bottle when it first cam out and I have not wasted much of it .

 

[RichardH]

That it is and to me kind of smells like brake fluid which will also cut a paint job on a car faster then most would think....

I was trying to remove some paint on a plastic car and set it up in a rubbermaid container with brake fluid in my wood working shop. Went back a day later and the fumes had caused my metal tools to rust. Hand saws ruined, spade bits rusty, etc. Bad stuff brake fluid

 

[Mr.Micron]

That it is

 

[JonasCalhoun]

Oh yeah. I see people recommending using brake fluid for stripping paint off kits. No freaking way.


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[Leakyvalve]

You can soak a brush, you just need to remove all the rubber. Look at a diagram and figure out where the seals are and remove them.

Now getting them back in can be a pain.

 

[Jurien72]

I have used brake fluid to strip model kits before- it worked like a charm. You gotta use brake fluid, not brake cleaner. A lot of people get that mixed up.

I bought an airbrush cleaning kit from Blick Art Supply and its got some really good cleaner in it- Im not sure where to get a full bottle of it though!

 

[Lt4-396]

When I soak my brush I use a little 1 oz clear medicine cup and balance the airbrush body in the cup and bring the restorer up to the paint cup.
Now I just let my nozzle or sb head assembly soak in 4012 and rarely ever need restorer.

There is no point in soaking an entire brush, there can only be paint in the cup to the nozzle nothing behind the cup unless your packing is to loose.

 

[JackEb]

I remember soaking something in some restorer and the rubber got totally destroyed.

Also, I don't think people picking it up understand just what it is. It's not a between colors cleaner or a mild soap. It's serious stuff.

I have a 4oz bottle (120ml) that I bought in 2012, I decanted into small glass siphon bottle (with storage lid- no holes) to about half full Fast forward to now and I haven't refilled it. I will often drop a nozzle in there, leave it an hour or two, use a long bristle artist brush to nudge anything still hanging around, rinse, reassemble and spray about 3 'B' cup fulls of water into a spray out pot.

When used as per directions on the bottle its great stuff. If you don't read the instructions then you only have yourself to blame, not the product. If you aren't sure after reading the instructions then refer to the createx website.

• Partially dissolves dried paint allowing for easy clean-up with soap & water.
• Use as a soak for metallic parts: nozzle, needle, cup.
• Re-Usable. Keep in metal or ceramic container.
• Dissolves soft-plastics. Keep away from non-PTFE coated O-rings.
• Flush airbrush or spray-gun with water after using Restorer.

@JonasCalhoun I would suggest starting with the restorer, FLUSH WELL, then use the acetone. FLUSH WELL in future give the brush a good thorough clean before switching between the enamel / waterbased paint. or alternatively have two brushes, one for waterbased, one for enamels and two jars (labelled) one with acetone, one with restorer for soaking the nozzle.

 

[twood]

I bought a small bottle when I first learned about it, (4 yrs. ago) and I still have 1/2 left. I strain it and re-use portions at a time. I also tip my brush front first up to and into that pot-hole at the bottom....
Now that I am thinking about it, I need to do it. I haven't done a full clean since before the e-bike....hummmmm. I guess that is a good sign I clean well while using them....

 

[mike k]

I use naked gun cleaner, you can use that between colors and they have a paint stripper, that's not intended to be sprayed at all just pour in your airbrush and rinse out, it's more serious than create restorer, but works like a charm

 

[Nessus]

I have a spray can of Naked Gun. It'll clean ANYTHING more or less instantly, but it's a kitchen sink cocktail of every hard-core solvent you'd never want on your skin or in your lungs, so you gotta be very strict about safety with it.

I've only used it maybe twice, and although I love how well it works, I'll probably never use it again. The smallest whiff is enough to tell you it WILL turn your brain to Swiss cheese if you use it too often and/or the slightest bit incautiously. It'll go right through nitrile gloves on contact too.

 

[Chris g]

I think the best thing to do is strip it down and clean the parts separately.

There's a good video on line by the Iwata Guy, (

).

The problem I had was that paint was moving backwards along the needle so had built up and I had to take out the needle seal and clean the 'barrel'. So spraying anything through the airbrush wouldn't have cleared my problem.

Personally I wouldn't use brake fluid or acetone to clean my airbrush.

The two paint types, enamel and acrylics, are different so need different thinners and solvents. For acrylics, I've found generic airbrush cleaner or non acetone nail varnish remover work well.

For enamels the solvent, at least in modelling, has the generic name of lacquer thinners but the composition varies so I would only use these to clean the metal parts.

I've not got an ultrasonic cleaner but don't see why this wouldn't work on the individual pieces.