Suggestions for instant response trigger AB

S

Smiler65

Guest
As title really, looking for a more responsive trigger on an AB.
Currently have an Evolution AL PLUS, I love the weight of it and the small paint cup size but I am constantly struggling to find the start point for the paint flow.
Yes I am new to this hobby and I'm sure some of you will just suggest keep practicing and it will get better. I do also struggle with air pressure,having bought a cheap Mac valve that I consider to be a waste of money as it seem to be all or nothing with it.
So I'm hoping by being able to know exactly when the paint is coming I'll be able to concentrate more on the air pressure side of things.
Oh by the way it is the 0.2 version I have if it makes any difference.
 
Due to how the trigger mechanism is build on an Evolution there is a wee bit of leeway on it. You'll probably get a feel for it with enough use but it will not respond instantly due to this (I used one for 2-3 years though and found it to be a more than decent airbrush especialy considering it's price for real fine detail there are more suitable airbrushes though).

If you realy want instand reaction go for an Iwata. It has a different trigger mechanism (I'm sure other brands respond just as well but I have no experience with those)

Edit:
ps. In regard to macvalve, I also bought a cheap one at first (by now i realy should know better) and that had 2 settings; no pressure, almost full pressure (it leaked :p). I now have a more expensive one and that works perfectly.
 
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As title really, looking for a more responsive trigger on an AB.
Currently have an Evolution AL PLUS, I love the weight of it and the small paint cup size but I am constantly struggling to find the start point for the paint flow.
Yes I am new to this hobby and I'm sure some of you will just suggest keep practicing and it will get better. I do also struggle with air pressure,having bought a cheap Mac valve that I consider to be a waste of money as it seem to be all or nothing with it.
So I'm hoping by being able to know exactly when the paint is coming I'll be able to concentrate more on the air pressure side of things.
Oh by the way it is the 0.2 version I have if it makes any difference.

This is why mine got lobbed and to prevent a suicide, I had exactly the same problem with the Evolution silverline 2 in 1 and when the paint finally did come it blasted everything around it, I'm afraid unless you thin your paint even more it something you will never be able to remedy unless H&S have some means of tricking it out.
 
Thanks gents,:thumbsup:

Looks like I should of went with the Iwata in the beggining as was suggested when I was first considering what to buy.:eek:ops:
Will do a bit of research on the different models as they seem to have a vast line up.
Ideally want fine line capability and small paint cup.
Would love the micron but realistically that's to good for me at my entry level of ability, not to mention the spares prices.
 
Thanks gents,:thumbsup:

Looks like I should of went with the Iwata in the beggining as was suggested when I was first considering what to buy.:eek:ops:
Will do a bit of research on the different models as they seem to have a vast line up.
Ideally want fine line capability and small paint cup.
Would love the micron but realistically that's to good for me at my entry level of ability, not to mention the spares prices.

The Iwata HP-B is a good airbrush (0.2 nozzle) for a reasonable price. I bought it as an "upgrade" for my evolution. About a year later I went for the micron so if you can spare the cash you might as well go for that gun imidiately, lack of skill is no reason not to buy good equipement imo.
 
Thanks gents,:thumbsup:

Looks like I should of went with the Iwata in the beggining as was suggested when I was first considering what to buy.:eek:ops:
Will do a bit of research on the different models as they seem to have a vast line up.
Ideally want fine line capability and small paint cup.
Would love the micron but realistically that's to good for me at my entry level of ability, not to mention the spares prices.

I now have the Iwata HP-BH+ and I can tell you I absolutely love it, it has the small cup and 0.2 nozzle as well the built in mac valve although I would have preferred an alternative mac, I keep nudging it accidently, but I got it for the same price as the one without.
 
The Iwata HP-B is a good airbrush (0.2 nozzle) for a reasonable price. I bought it as an "upgrade" for my evolution. About a year later I went for the micron so if you can spare the cash you might as well go for that gun imidiately, lack of skill is no reason not to buy good equipement imo.
Was just looking at the HP-BH as it has the built in mac valve. Not worried about the cost of the micron(im not rich) but do believe in buying the best you can,just know ill have that inevitable first drop.maybe i should just buy it as this is my challenge to myself to achieve a reasonable level of skill in airbrush illustration, and i am determined to suceed.
 
Bloody hell you lot type quick just replying to one and another post appears. Got to learn how to use more than 1 finger at a time.
 
Was just looking at the HP-BH as it has the built in mac valve. Not worried about the cost of the micron(im not rich) but do believe in buying the best you can,just know ill have that inevitable first drop.maybe i should just buy it as this is my challenge to myself to achieve a reasonable level of skill in airbrush illustration, and i am determined to suceed.

Just have a look here, the guy is a member here.

Lion art

You can change to English at the bottom of the page.
 
@Madbrush thanks for all the info and link,have seen that site before,think it was mentioned in another micron post.

Is there much difference in performance between the hp-bh and the micron,original version.
Noticed that the micron doesn't have the Mac valve (on the cheaper ones on that site) so would it be wise buying a separate one like @haasje dutchairbrush has(any link to the one purchased Haasje )
Is the soft spring worth the purchase?
Appreciate your time to answer these question as I'm sure you're all sick of questions about the microns.
 
There is a very noticable difference in performance between a hp-bh and a micron, though you might not notice it when you start out as the micron realy shines with detail work at low airpersure (and that will requier more than a bit of practice)

The soft spring is also worth it, but again this is an option that will only come to its right after a lot of practice.

Valve I use (dutch site :)): http://www.airo-flex.nl/lucht-aansl...met-lucht-regelaar-slang-aansluiting-4-x-6-mm
 
so is there a huge difference between the new model and the old, is it worth the extra money ?
 
so is there a huge difference between the new model and the old, is it worth the extra money ?

You would only notice a difference if you knew what you were looking for and if you owned one or the other beforehand.
 
so is there a huge difference between the new model and the old, is it worth the extra money ?

Note this is my personal opinion, but no (and I've used both). I myself would take the old one if it was more than 50,- cheaper than the new one. If there is a difference in how they paint I think I need to practice a bit more as I don't notice it (the new one has some nice extra's though)
 
Only real differences are the square trigger and nozzle cap holder on back of the adjustment knob.
 
This is why mine got lobbed and to prevent a suicide, I had exactly the same problem with the Evolution silverline 2 in 1 and when the paint finally did come it blasted everything around it, I'm afraid unless you thin your paint even more it something you will never be able to remedy unless H&S have some means of tricking it out.
The reaction on my H&S brushes are no different than my HP-CH. When you have a good seal at the air cap and proper paint reduction, it works great. There is little to no lag in response. Most times there is a lag, as with any other brush, I wipe the needle clean, loosen the needle chuck and spin the needle with a very slight(almost no) pressure forward. Any paint that has dried in the tip of the nozzle gets loosened. Just re-tighten the needle chuck, blast a bit of paint out and it's all good. This works for all my brushes.
 
The no-name brand mac valves are a no go. I did have a few that worked 100% but they died like clockwork every 6 months. The Sparmax ones with the black knob is really good.

I have no problems regarding the dead spot in either my Revolution or Infinity. But I think that is because of the crazy reduction I'm using. I will have to try with a thicker viscosity paint to see if that is the cause.
 
The reaction on my H&S brushes are no different than my HP-CH. When you have a good seal at the air cap and proper paint reduction, it works great. There is little to no lag in response. Most times there is a lag, as with any other brush, I wipe the needle clean, loosen the needle chuck and spin the needle with a very slight(almost no) pressure forward. Any paint that has dried in the tip of the nozzle gets loosened. Just re-tighten the needle chuck, blast a bit of paint out and it's all good. This works for all my brushes.

As much as I have a pet hate of anything H&S I'm not stupid enough to believe that H&S actually supply brushes with built in nozzle blockage from new, you can't clean out what isn't there, the brush never ever worked from the minute it came out of the box, as well as the constant splattering the body was tarnished to the point that most of it was black instead of chrome and the inside of the cup was pure brass after one cleaning session.

At the time, people gave all kinds of suggestions at to what the cause might be including pulsing compressor but I had two other brushes in use at the same time and on the same compressor with no issues, the simple fact is I got a Monday model that managed to get through the rigorous checks unnoticed (it happens) and nothing in this world was going to make it better.

I didn't just decide all of this, I actually spent six months trying out all of the suggested fixes and possible solutions including a new nozzle and needle until it all became too much and it got trashed, so because of this experience I have obvious trust issues and refuse to buy anything at all H&S.
 
I worked with an H&S for about a minute or so and did not like it , but I am used to a iwata cm sb and am hooked on side feeds ;) what I didnt like about the H&S was the trigger and the air valve spring : both are real stiff compared to the micron but I didnt notice a late response to the trigger as you mention here . I was using real thin paint at the time : a 1:5 paint/water reduction.
what struck me the most was the fact that my student who was using the H&S from day one improved his skills in about a second when I gave him an Iwata hp B with a soft air valve spring set up I bought for students to work with.
 
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