troubleshooting

[brandon84]

I'm have a lot of trouble with splatting when airbrushing. And also I can not get a consistent flow . Still new to it and don't have the whole how much to reduce. Gets pretty frustrating but I don't want to give up. And help would be great! !

 

[Heliotropic]

What paint are you using? How have you been reducing? What air pressure are you using? What airbrush are you using?

 

[grantmartin850]

Hang in there bramdon. Get the infi that heliotropic requested and you wull get plenty of help

 

[brandon84]

Createx water base. May sound off but I don't understand the ratio 9:1 to reduce. About 35-40psi. Master craft g44 cheap brush. I got the kit from tcpglobal.com.

 

[brandon84]

I also am going to be taking classes at Pastrana Unlimited in a few months for the hands on experience.

 

[wmlepage]

Well 9:1 means 9 parts paint to 1 part reducer. Are you using basic Createx or Wicked? Basic Createx can be a pain, if using that try reducing at least 1:1 with basic old water. For wicked, reduce at the same rate but with actual reducer, and that should get you going. At these reductions you may want to run your air below 35 psi so you don t have the splats. A lot of that can be cured by speeding up your strokes. Or just plain old trigger control.

Alan will get ya going, he's a wiz with a brush, and is very knowledgeable with Createx products.

 

[Heliotropic]

Createx water base. May sound off but I don't understand the ratio 9:1 to reduce. About 35-40psi. Master craft g44 cheap brush. I got the kit from tcpglobal.com.

If you're using Createx Airbrush Color, you'd probably have better luck mixing it 9 parts water to 1 part paint. It really needs be thin to go through that 0.2mm airbrush setup.
I'm assuming you bought the cheap kit just to see if you'll like airbrushing? A lot of us have done the same thing. Unfortunately you'll probably find that it's going to be a constant struggle with that kit. Changing paint will be your best bet for starters. Try some Com-Art, it shoots pretty good with minimal to no reducing. You're also going to want to look into a different brush if/when you still have problems.

 

[brandon84]

Yea I kind of figured the kit wasn't the best. Also my main focus is for automotive use. I'm using auto and wicked paints. It's also very humid here right which doesn't help. Thank you for the help I'll give this stuff a shot and look at purchasing some better stuff and keep practicing every day!

 

[Heliotropic]

If you're intention is for automotive then sticking with Auto Air and Wicked would probably be your best bet. It sounds like you're experiencing the common tip dry. Are you using the reducer made for those paints?

 

[brandon84]

Im using Autoair 4012 reducer and wicked w100 reducer

 

[Blackthorne]

Do you have water filter/separator?

Envoyé depuis mon Android via Tapatalk 4!

 

[scooterrat]

Maybe you are pulling your trigger too far back and/or too close to your substrate. Practice your trigger control, air pressure and paint mix to get a feel for what works for you. You'll also find out temp and humidity will play a role in how you mix too. I'd use the 4012 or w500 reducers. W100 isn't all that great. The transparent base helps to get back some body to the paint if you thin out too far and the paint breaks. Play with that in your mix too if you'd like.

 

[shadow2462]

You will find that everyone has there own set up that works for them but so far all info given is good place to start. If you can tell us what substrait you are using or wish to use... auto/bike( meta)l, textiles (tee shirts), ect. and maybe post a pic of your type of splatter which will help define wether it is a reduction issue vs air pressure vs brush control. There is a wealth if experience here to help!! I personally use Wicked Detail paint with .2 needle/nozzle and 18 - 20 psi ( rule of thumb: the thinner the paint lower your pressure / thicker paint raise pressure) but also knowing the limits of you needle / nozzle set up is a big help also. Example: Your brush with a .2 might spray up to a 1 to 1 -1/4" line while another brand may spray a 1" line and maybe your control might allow you to get different results also how close you are to the media will give you different results as well, there are a ton of variables but we can get you in the right direction.

Oh yeah, and hello and welcome...

 

[brandon84]

Do you have water filter/separator?

Envoyé depuis mon Android via Tapatalk 4!

Yes

 

[jagardn]

Yea I kind of figured the kit wasn't the best. Also my main focus is for automotive use. I'm using auto and wicked paints. It's also very humid here right which doesn't help. Thank you for the help I'll give this stuff a shot and look at purchasing some better stuff and keep practicing every day!

I would suggest ETAC. In my opinion, it flows much better than Wicked/Auto Air. I have always had awful tip dry with Createx Paints, though they are much better with the 4012 Reducer, ETAC is much more consistent. The pigment load seems to be higher in Createx, once reduced properly, it works pretty well, but takes a bit of practice to get it right.

 

[Heliotropic]

I would suggest ETAC. In my opinion, it flows much better than Wicked/Auto Air. I have always had awful tip dry with Createx Paints, though they are much better with the 4012 Reducer, ETAC is much more consistent. The pigment load seems to be higher in Createx, once reduced properly, it works pretty well, but takes a bit of practice to get it right.

I agree, it's the best I've used so far, but is it used in automotive?

 

[brandon84]

My main focus is automotive so metal. I have a lot to learn and you guys have been a huge help!

 

[basepaint]

Just stick with it and you will learn alot on here! Theses guys/gals know the ropes when it comes to airbrushing!!!

 

[jagardn]

I agree, it's the best I've used so far, but is it used in automotive?

Yes, they are lightfast and can be used on automotive applications. I just ordered some AG Modifier for use with hard surface work and for some other tricks I've found work well for Illustration. Here is a snippet from their website about the AG Modifier.

Private Stock AG (Autograph) Opti-Film 2050 is a Phyto-Technology 'Green' Performance enhancement additive for making in-situ adjustments to acrylic artist products, water-based and waterborne, without the use of noxious solvents or alcohols.

Heat Curing - Use ample heat to fully encompass areas where colorant are used on surfaces that can sustain nominal to high heat using a heat source. Remember the higher the heat the quicker the film hardness develops. No open time, ready to clear as soon as dry.

Ambient Cure - AG 'Autograph' Opti-Film begins to coalesce as water is removed by evaporation or forced hot air. Helps build compatibility between various substrate and compatibilize chemistry between various acrylics. No need is using over-the counter ad hoc remedies.

Clearing - Private Stock's AG Opti-Film 2050 is ready for clearing after applying to properly prepped and clean substrates. You may use enamel, lacquer or urethane solvent clears as soon as all water has been either mechanically forced off or by ambient drying. Your processes may differ, we suggest always doing a test sample prior to commercial use with any products.

 

[Immortal Concepts]

Etac actually what I think I'm going to try next. Jody barrio uses only etac and does incredible building murals and auto work with the stuff and has no issues. I've watched his scratch and water tests on youtube and actually impressed. There is a darkness that looms over the owner of etac and I know a couple people that hate his guts, but you can't please everyone.