Using Wicked Colors with Xotic

[chwilson0607]

Hi all,

I've been airbrushing a while but it's been some time since I did a helmet. I have a couple of questions about using Wicked Colors with Xotic (a uro). I want to use the Xotics for base coats and Wicked for the detail work. Then I'll put a clear coat on top of that. Ok to use those two in different layers?

Also, I've been hearing about using a light coat of clear in between layers. Is that the standard method?

Thanks everyone,
Carl

 

[Squishy]

I haven't used Xotic paints, but use Wicked detail over other uros and then a 2k clear all the time. I personally have never needed to clear in between layers, especially with the w500 reducer, which is pretty tough (within reason of course ) But I think if people really need to protect the layer they just did for a particular reason they use an intercoat. If you aren't sure about the different paints, and clears reacting then maybe a test panel is the way to go just to be sure.

 

[chwilson0607]

Thanks Squishy. I never used an intercoat on my previous two helmets but everybody may be different and have their reasons. Panels to test on would be good.

Side question - know of a place I can order a solvent-resistant spray bottle? I used one before to help clean brushes and guns. The reducer typically eats away the spray trigger mechanism.

Carl

 

[Immortal Concepts]

You don't have to use an intercoat layer between them, just make sure each paint type is fully cured before layering on the next. I don't advise mixing systems, but it can be done and ive done it before. The main thing you have to deal with is the uro. Uro basecoat if not cleared within 24hrs of being sprayed, loses compatability with clear. You have to wake it back up with a mist of reducer. I've done this over AA before and it didn't have a reaction. Since you are putting an acrylic between urethanes, it's important to make sure the basecoat is "awake" and accepts the clear, or you may have issues down the road. Layering intercoat or a clear between each paint type is asking for cracking or peeling down the road as well. While it may be popular belief that more layers of clear equals more protection, the opposite is actually true. You dont want more clear than what is needed (2 coats standard and 3 coats if burying lines) As far as spray bottles no clue other than industrial sprayers. Reducer will soften plastics and melt them which is what it's doing to the sprayer. I don't see a use in using a sprayer for cleaning when all you need to do is flush your guns out with lacquer thinner and soak them in it for a couple minutes at most. Curious as to why you chose xotic over any normal urethane brand?

 

[Immortal Concepts]

BTW just noticed you live in lville, I work in shepherdsville and used to work in lville. If you are getting your paint from painter supply up in lville, stop. it's garbage old stock and have had many issues with their crap the few times I've tried it.

 

[chwilson0607]

Thanks Justin. As Imentioned, I've not used an intercoat application on the two helmets I've painted previously and they turned out pretty good so I'll stay away from that idea. So you're saying that if my paint job takes longer than 24 hours, I should "mist" reducer to reactivate the base before clearing? I haven't used lacquer thinner before - only reducer in a spray bottle. I'll try that out too. A friend recommended using Xotic colors a while back - they were the first set of uro's I'd purchased. I bought them as a kit since this was something I was trying out for the first time and my projects aren't anything large scale (yet).

 

[chwilson0607]

BTW just noticed you live in lville, I work in shepherdsville and used to work in lville. If you are getting your paint from painter supply up in lville, stop. it's garbage old stock and have had many issues with their crap the few times I've tried it.

Justin - yes - I moved back to L'Ville from the DC area last year. I've been looking recently for some local suppliers to buy from rather than ordering over the Internet but no luck so far. Any recommendations on where to go for paint or just buy online?

Thanks

 

[Immortal Concepts]

I use Auto paint performance in shepherdsville, he has matrix, AA, hok and plethora of other stuff. If he doesn't have it he will order it. Good prices and been using him for a few years and to the point now he let's me go in the back and mix what u want myself since he doesn't understand airbrushing that much. I will warn you, he is hit or miss on attitude . Catch him on a bad day and he can be a smartass, but usually he is very nice and helpful and will talk your head off

349 S Buckman St, Shepherdsville, KY 40165
(502) 543-8335

Oh and I meant don't use smart shoppers in lville, I was half awake when I posted that

 

[Immortal Concepts]

Thanks Justin. As Imentioned, I've not used an intercoat application on the two helmets I've painted previously and they turned out pretty good so I'll stay away from that idea. So you're saying that if my paint job takes longer than 24 hours, I should "mist" reducer to reactivate the base before clearing? I haven't used lacquer thinner before - only reducer in a spray bottle. I'll try that out too. A friend recommended using Xotic colors a while back - they were the first set of uro's I'd purchased. I bought them as a kit since this was something I was trying out for the first time and my projects aren't anything large scale (yet).

For uro, cleaning with reducer does work, but it's wasteful cost wise. Lacquer thinner is cheap and cleans better. With the misting, I turn my pressure down on my gun and spray over it at a far distance, like doing the last layer of metallics jobs. It's more of a fogging then actual mist, you don't want to soak it or it will fully reactivate the basecoat and start running. All this does is wake the paint back up (meaning bring it out of cured state) so that it will form a molecular bond with the clear. If you don't, the clear can start peeling off within a year. A lot of people don't do this little trick and wonder why it fails down the road. Some of my projects (pull tractors) can take weeks or months to paint so extremely important to do this then. I've seen paintjobs I've done 10 years ago that still look brand new.