Wicked detail and 4004 trans base.

Just trying things to see what I can do.
Actually I thought that the wicked detail was the more opaque and the normal wicked paint was the transparent. Live and learn. Though I just got my order of Candy 2O in so I will be playing with that next week too. :D Going to be a busy week. I just know I am going to have a three page honey do list though:sour:

Somebody is gonna have to site proof of the transparency thing. Wicked Detail was marketed exactly how it sounds.. for detail. It had much finer pigment, not a lower pigment load.
 
OH yeah I also just got a badger paint mixer. Hoping that a little better mixing will fix the problem. And it saves my wrists from shaking up the bottles. Lol.
 
It sounds like everyone has you covered ;) . I like to use the transparent base; if I over reduce and find the paint to thin it will help bring the viscosity back to the paint.
 
OH yeah I also just got a badger paint mixer. Hoping that a little better mixing will fix the problem. And it saves my wrists from shaking up the bottles. Lol.

I have the badger mixer but found it has issues with the balls in the bottle, and it doesn't get into the edges of the convex bottom of the bottle.
I've actually found a better result with the Tamiya hobby stirrer
upload_2017-7-19_10-21-22.png

theyre long enough to fit into the 2oz bottles too.
 
I have the badger mixer but found it has issues with the balls, and it doesn't get into the edges of the convex bottom of the bottle.
I've actually found a better result with the Tamiya hobby stirrer
View attachment 49112

theyre long enough to fit into the 2oz bottles too.
I may have to look for those. The wife is going to hate me lol.
Thank you everyone for the help. I will try everything you said and let you know how it works.
 
Somebody is gonna have to site proof of the transparency thing. Wicked Detail was marketed exactly how it sounds.. for detail. It had much finer pigment, not a lower pigment load.
Sorry I upset you, the information I gave was straight from Denis at Createx when I was having difficulty with the Wicked detail color Blue and Burnt Umber. Denis said and I quote "Wicked Detail is the transparent line of paint and Wicked is a semi opaque line". I would not shoot out facts like that without knowledge so there is no need for site proofing here. In fact the older bottles of Wicked I had said right on the label "semi opaque". If you go to Createx web sight now they list Wicked as transparent and in the description for Wicked detail it said "more transparent colors". However all are free to believe what they want.


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So got out today for a few minutes and tried a few things. As soon as I started mixing up the trans base I noticed chunks, kind of like latex. Guessing that it may have been temp damaged like some one said. Guess I will be ordering some more from mapleairbrush.
Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Ok so it is not me.
I don't think it has. I only just got it from maple airbrush. Like I said the first time I used it I thought it was the airbrush then I thought it was me doing something wrong. I will give it another try, it may still be something that I am doing. Who knows I may not have had it mixed up enough. I will keep practicing and see if I can figure it out. I am just glad that it is not me trying to mix two things together that are not supposed to be mixed. Like ammonia and sulphuric acid. Long story there and the reason I am bald lol:thumbsdown:
Well yes it is you being Transbase is used for making a paint act more like a transparent and not a reducer or a flow enhancer . 4012 or 4020 reducer depending on the material you are working on are the preferred reducers for the Wicked line. 4020 is their automotive reducer which contains acetone.
Learning a paint system and what to use with what is almost as hard as learning to airbrush LOL .
Transbase is also use between color changes while useing the new CandyO2 to keep the color from bleeding through . The Intercoat clear is the carrier for the CandyO2.
 
Well yes it is you being Transbase is used for making a paint act more like a transparent and not a reducer or a flow enhancer . 4012 or 4020 reducer depending on the material you are working on are the preferred reducers for the Wicked line. 4020 is their automotive reducer which contains acetone.
Learning a paint system and what to use with what is almost as hard as learning to airbrush LOL .
Transbase is also use between color changes while useing the new CandyO2 to keep the color from bleeding through . The Intercoat clear is the carrier for the CandyO2.

I was using the trans base to get the paint more transparent. And using 4012 reducer.
I was finally able to try some things yesterday, just mixing it up I could tell there was something wrong with the paint. It was almost like it separated, there was big chunks of almost latex in the bottom. After a few minutes mixing and breaking it up most of it was mixed but still chunks.
Do you think I could still use it? Just make sure that I strain it out a couple of times or just cut my losses and get some more?
 
I was using the trans base to get the paint more transparent. And using 4012 reducer.
I was finally able to try some things yesterday, just mixing it up I could tell there was something wrong with the paint. It was almost like it separated, there was big chunks of almost latex in the bottom. After a few minutes mixing and breaking it up most of it was mixed but still chunks.
Do you think I could still use it? Just make sure that I strain it out a couple of times or just cut my losses and get some more?
I can only assume you are mixing and reducing your paint in a separate cup , May I ask the process you use when mixing ... what I mean is the way I have found works best for me is add the reducer i the cup first . About half of what I think I will need. Then add in the transbase followed by color.
I have had kind of the same thing happen to me when I use to mix it Trans base , Color then reducer , The color would act like a glob of goo and even with a battery operated (drink mixer) paint mixer would seem to take longer to break down and blend the paint.
But Yes you should still be able to use it if it has not been frozen at anytime during stoage. Just strain it. Once through should be fine. but that is up to you.
 
I was using the trans base to get the paint more transparent. And using 4012 reducer.
I was finally able to try some things yesterday, just mixing it up I could tell there was something wrong with the paint. It was almost like it separated, there was big chunks of almost latex in the bottom. After a few minutes mixing and breaking it up most of it was mixed but still chunks.
Do you think I could still use it? Just make sure that I strain it out a couple of times or just cut my losses and get some more?
If it wasn't at the stage of breaking down like that i would say keep trying, but it would be better to replace it. Why struggle that hard. I have a whole double batch of Createx Illustration Paint that I am replacing because I have struggled with it since I bought it. At first it would start clumping in the nozzle and the suddenly spit it out on the paper. There was very little warning. Even with straining and reducing I never got it to stop. I recently have been playing with Blair Synthetic Paper to see if I like working on it so I broke out the same paint. Now it is seven years old and it still is the same way, but now it tip dries so fast I can't hold a fine line, but for a second and then it won't spray. You have to reduce it so far to make it work and then it skates on the synthetic paper and is more of a wash than paint. Even at 8 psi. I broke down and ordered new at the advice of Dru Blair and we will see how the new paint behaves. If it works better, than great, but if not Createx and I will be through.

What I am saying is don't struggle like I have done for so long. Just order some new.


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I can only assume you are mixing and reducing your paint in a separate cup , May I ask the process you use when mixing ... what I mean is the way I have found works best for me is add the reducer i the cup first . About half of what I think I will need. Then add in the transbase followed by color.
I have had kind of the same thing happen to me when I use to mix it Trans base , Color then reducer , The color would act like a glob of goo and even with a battery operated (drink mixer) paint mixer would seem to take longer to break down and blend the paint.
But Yes you should still be able to use it if it has not been frozen at anytime during stoage. Just strain it. Once through should be fine. but that is up to you.
I do mix in a separate cup. I usually put the paint in first but will try putting in the reducer first.
I don't know for sure if the trans base has been frozen but seeing as how it is clumpy in the bottle I am going to hazard a guess that it may have been. That or something has happened to it.
I have no issues with the other paint I have though. It works great even with the learning curv.
 
I would go ahead and replace the transbase then . I have saw a post where it turn rock hard in the bottle .
 
I would go ahead and replace the transbase then . I have saw a post where it turn rock hard in the bottle .
I think you'll find that it was the 4030 mix additive that turned rock hard in the bottle (exposure to air was suspected I think, or a bad batch)
 
I think you'll find that it was the 4030 mix additive that turned rock hard in the bottle (exposure to air was suspected I think, or a bad batch)
Agreed. 4030 is a great product in my opinion, but it reduces paint life. It's not designed to be mixed and stored for prolonged periods. Mix only what you need for a particular project.
 
Agreed. 4030 is a great product in my opinion, but it reduces paint life. It's not designed to be mixed and stored for prolonged periods. Mix only what you need for a particular project.
From memory it wasn't mixed. Almost new bottle of 4030 set hard. Weird.
 
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