need help about iwata micron

Bro- IWATA CAN KISS MY YOU KNOW WHAT FOR SELLING AIRBRUSHES FOR $ 500-700. I have been tattoo artist over a decade- artist of many forms- hobby man! Iwata not as responsive period.

Do you have shares in Olympos, or sell them or something??

Everyone has favourite brands, and if you love Olympos that's great. But I have seen a few posts where you are trashing Iwata, and if that's all you are here for, then you wont be here for long. We are respectful here, if you have an issue with a particular brand that is fine, but discuss it and any issues in a reasonable manner.

If you are here to be a member of this community then great, happy to have you here. If you are only here to bad mouth a company then we will be saying goodbye, we don't have attitude or trolling here.

Hope you decide to stay, some great artists here and lots of sharing of skill and techniques. I'm sure you have your own to share too, and it would be very welcome.
 
Iwata is the ONLY brand I had not any issues with! All their airbrushes are ready to work just right after pulling out off the box. I had dozens of Iwata of different models and not a single issue ever with them, instead of one AB with dozen issues (I mean here knock-offs). But I do own Olymposes also and can't say they're better then Iwata. Taking into account, that Iwata is produced at the same factory as Olympos was decades ago (and not produced for now!), we can presume that airbrushes are produced with more developed equipment. And they are! Machining of modern Iwata is better than old Olympos, at least nozzles, which are the main thing at AB work as they produce spraying.
I'm not saying Olympos is bad quality or something. It's good quality product, but Iwata is better now. Though, their first Microns were just the same as Olympos (micron is their "invention"). Now Iwata's internal mechanism is more simple, but it does not make the performance worse.
Olympos has very fragile needle tips, which are very easy to bend.
But all these issues are solved by buying Iwata part for Olympos:) I mean for Microns. I think wouldn't be clever to buy parts of less quality and to install them in better airbrush;)
Olympos is History that started it all! For what I have the highest respect for. I have these airbrushes and will buy more.
 
For illustration, I use two CM-SBs. I like having the color cup on the side. It's out out your eye line, out of the way of your finger, and fast and easy to switch colors and clean.
You can use the plastic color cups from Aztec, too, which are cheap, come is a variety of sizes, and are easy to clean. They do break eventually, but only cost a few bucks to replace.

The CM-C+ or Kustom CM-C+ are great for automotive work, especially solvent based paints. The solvent based paints I've used seemed to prefer the .23 tip CM-C+ over the finer tipped CM-B or CM-SB.

Long opinion short, the CM-SB is my favorite airbrush for detail. The two I have are the first airbrushes I reach for on any project. An Olympos MP200-C micron is usually #3.
Thank you very much
 
Iwata is the ONLY brand I had not any issues with! All their airbrushes are ready to work just right after pulling out off the box. I had dozens of Iwata of different models and not a single issue ever with them, instead of one AB with dozen issues (I mean here knock-offs). But I do own Olymposes also and can't say they're better then Iwata. Taking into account, that Iwata is produced at the same factory as Olympos was decades ago (and not produced for now!), we can presume that airbrushes are produced with more developed equipment. And they are! Machining of modern Iwata is better than old Olympos, at least nozzles, which are the main thing at AB work as they produce spraying.
I'm not saying Olympos is bad quality or something. It's good quality product, but Iwata is better now. Though, their first Microns were just the same as Olympos (micron is their "invention"). Now Iwata's internal mechanism is more simple, but it does not make the performance worse.
Olympos has very fragile needle tips, which are very easy to bend.
But all these issues are solved by buying Iwata part for Olympos:) I mean for Microns. I think wouldn't be clever to buy parts of less quality and to install them in better airbrush;)
Olympos is History that started it all! For what I have the highest respect for. I have these airbrushes and will buy more.
Thank you very much
 
Bro- I am telling you IWATA MICRON SUCK!!! Compared to olympos I own both!!!!
Dude, I LOVE my Olympos airbrushes (MP200-C, HP100-C, and HP100-B. All older models), but my Iwatas (CM-SBx2, HP-CS) hold their own just fine. They definitely don't suck.
 
Iwata is the ONLY brand I had not any issues with! All their airbrushes are ready to work just right after pulling out off the box. I had dozens of Iwata of different models and not a single issue ever with them, instead of one AB with dozen issues (I mean here knock-offs). But I do own Olymposes also and can't say they're better then Iwata. Taking into account, that Iwata is produced at the same factory as Olympos was decades ago (and not produced for now!), we can presume that airbrushes are produced with more developed equipment. And they are! Machining of modern Iwata is better than old Olympos, at least nozzles, which are the main thing at AB work as they produce spraying.
I'm not saying Olympos is bad quality or something. It's good quality product, but Iwata is better now. Though, their first Microns were just the same as Olympos (micron is their "invention"). Now Iwata's internal mechanism is more simple, but it does not make the performance worse.
Olympos has very fragile needle tips, which are very easy to bend.
But all these issues are solved by buying Iwata part for Olympos:) I mean for Microns. I think wouldn't be clever to buy parts of less quality and to install them in better airbrush;)
Olympos is History that started it all! For what I have the highest respect for. I have these airbrushes and will buy more.

In my experience, the older Olympos parts where made of better quality materials and machined more precisely, than the Iwata parts. Especially modern Iwata parts. I haven't tried any of the "new" Olympos parts or brushes, and being under new ownership, they might not be using there traditional suppliers anymore.
My MP-200C was used by JW Baker for a decade or so before I bought it, and it's been used by me for several years now. It still has the original head unit and needle.
They never make em like they used too. Lol
 
In my experience, the older Olympos parts where made of better quality materials and machined more precisely, than the Iwata parts. Especially modern Iwata parts. I haven't tried any of the "new" Olympos parts or brushes, and being under new ownership, they might not be using there traditional suppliers anymore.
My MP-200C was used by JW Baker for a decade or so before I bought it, and it's been used by me for several years now. It still has the original head unit and needle.
They never make em like they used too. Lol

Actually, there's NO modern Olympos;) My airbrushes are from 80s or something. They are "new old stock", though it's not a problem. I expect performance:)

Can't say about if they were made with better quality materials as it's impossible to say just looking at the metal. I don't use neither Olympos nor Iwata for so many years so I couldn't judge what brand part materials are better. Though, some triggers on some Olymposes are made with some white steel and plated, but not with plated brass like modern triggers. How would that improve the performance?
But about the machining... I think I'll take pictures for the comparison. They will be the best "words" to describe the quality.
Olympos 0.18 mm micron nozzle is definitely has smaller hole than Iwata's 0.18. This nozzle is headache for opaque paint, for transparent it's great. But I use a lot of opaque colours.
Once I even broke nozzle in new Olympos airbrush. It was not a gentle micron's nozzle. I applied very low strength for tightening as usual and it broke just at once as I started to screw the nozzle in. I think it's unpleasant. The nozzles aren't cheap. Probably that was my bad luck, can't really say.
I first tried airbrushing in 2009 and since then no nozzle has been broken neither in knock offs, nor Iwatas.

You could think that I stand against Olympos:) No. I just call thing as they are.
I'm saying again that there are some Olympos models I intend to try;)
Only mine experience is described. Maybe someone has another, I would be glad to hear it as other people do.
 
Actually, there's NO modern Olympos;) My airbrushes are from 80s or something. They are "new old stock", though it's not a problem. I expect performance:)

Can't say about if they were made with better quality materials as it's impossible to say just looking at the metal. I don't use neither Olympos nor Iwata for so many years so I couldn't judge what brand part materials are better. Though, some triggers on some Olymposes are made with some white steel and plated, but not with plated brass like modern triggers. How would that improve the performance?
But about the machining... I think I'll take pictures for the comparison. They will be the best "words" to describe the quality.
Olympos 0.18 mm micron nozzle is definitely has smaller hole than Iwata's 0.18. This nozzle is headache for opaque paint, for transparent it's great. But I use a lot of opaque colours.
Once I even broke nozzle in new Olympos airbrush. It was not a gentle micron's nozzle. I applied very low strength for tightening as usual and it broke just at once as I started to screw the nozzle in. I think it's unpleasant. The nozzles aren't cheap. Probably that was my bad luck, can't really say.
I first tried airbrushing in 2009 and since then no nozzle has been broken neither in knock offs, nor Iwatas.

You could think that I stand against Olympos:) No. I just call thing as they are.
I'm saying again that there are some Olympos models I intend to try;)
Only mine experience is described. Maybe someone has another, I would be glad to hear it as other people do.

Triggers on some Olymposes are made with some white steel ? what olympos ? all my olympos trigger made from brass. Olympos needle stronger than iwata, i tested it (bent it). But olympos needle more pointy so the tip can bent easily, olympos neddle body more stronger than iwata.
 
Triggers on some Olymposes are made with some white steel ? what olympos ? all my olympos trigger made from brass. Olympos needle stronger than iwata, i tested it (bent it). But olympos needle more pointy so the tip can bent easily, olympos neddle body more stronger than iwata.

Can't say about certain models that have steel trigger. But I'm confident they aren't from microns, from some among HP.
I've discovered that when sanding down the triggers' top to glue there polyurethane pads for more convenient work. I've removed all of them and sanded, so can't say where they were originally. They're shown here, but I don't remember in which thread:) Though, I'll make an update of the tread for trigger design soon, where I'll show them again.

Never tried to bend the needles:) But I've bent Olympos micron's needle almost at once:) Just a touch of the surface and there you got it;)
But it's not an issue for me to repair any needle. Actually, I never use stock needles, they're modified from the start. Especially Olympos needles.
Maybe Olympos needles are stronger, but I've never bent Iwata's needle:) It's because they do another shape of the tip. After the modification they all look and work similar... Iwata, Olympos and others.
 
Actually, there's NO modern Olympos;) My airbrushes are from 80s or something. They are "new old stock", though it's not a problem. I expect performance:)

Can't say about if they were made with better quality materials as it's impossible to say just looking at the metal. I don't use neither Olympos nor Iwata for so many years so I couldn't judge what brand part materials are better. Though, some triggers on some Olymposes are made with some white steel and plated, but not with plated brass like modern triggers. How would that improve the performance?
But about the machining... I think I'll take pictures for the comparison. They will be the best "words" to describe the quality.
Olympos 0.18 mm micron nozzle is definitely has smaller hole than Iwata's 0.18. This nozzle is headache for opaque paint, for transparent it's great. But I use a lot of opaque colours.
Once I even broke nozzle in new Olympos airbrush. It was not a gentle micron's nozzle. I applied very low strength for tightening as usual and it broke just at once as I started to screw the nozzle in. I think it's unpleasant. The nozzles aren't cheap. Probably that was my bad luck, can't really say.
I first tried airbrushing in 2009 and since then no nozzle has been broken neither in knock offs, nor Iwatas.

You could think that I stand against Olympos:) No. I just call thing as they are.
I'm saying again that there are some Olympos models I intend to try;)
Only mine experience is described. Maybe someone has another, I would be glad to hear it as other people do.

Actually, there is. The brand was bought by new owners, and were being made new through the 2000's by the old owner. Basically, if it's in the old, plastic case, it's from the original owners era, the ones that gave Olympos their name. If it's not in the old case, or doesn't come with a case, it's from the new ownership.
I haven't tried any of the new ones yet, but hopefully they live up to the name.

Iwata micron to Olympos micron, the Olympos I've used and owned are noticeably more responsive and atomize finer. The only advantage Iwata has, for me, is the side feed.
The only Iwata I have that is better than the Olympos is my Eddy Wouters modified CM-SB, but you're going to have a tough time topping that with any airbrush.
 
Actually, there is. The brand was bought by new owners, and were being made new through the 2000's by the old owner. Basically, if it's in the old, plastic case, it's from the original owners era, the ones that gave Olympos their name. If it's not in the old case, or doesn't come with a case, it's from the new ownership.
I haven't tried any of the new ones yet, but hopefully they live up to the name.

Iwata micron to Olympos micron, the Olympos I've used and owned are noticeably more responsive and atomize finer. The only advantage Iwata has, for me, is the side feed.
The only Iwata I have that is better than the Olympos is my Eddy Wouters modified CM-SB, but you're going to have a tough time topping that with any airbrush.

where you got this info from? there is no info from olympos website about it. Olympos sold without case is to reduce price (case manufacturing is expensive), according olympos website. All olympos are old stock they not manufactured it anymore, so thats why there is limited olympos airbrush or sold out stock.
 
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In the two months that I tried the Olympos I bought and the one send as a replacement, I bent 3 needles. In the 5 years I've owned Iwatas and Harder & Steenbecks, I have not bent a single one of those. My Olympus will be fitted with an Iwata needle and nozzle as I have done a test with it like that and it worked beautifully.
 
In the two months that I tried the Olympos I bought and the one send as a replacement, I bent 3 needles. In the 5 years I've owned Iwatas and Harder & Steenbecks, I have not bent a single one of those. My Olympus will be fitted with an Iwata needle and nozzle as I have done a test with it like that and it worked beautifully.

What type of olympos that you bent the needles?
 
where you got this info from? there is no info from olympos website about it. Olympos sold without case is to reduce price (case manufacturing is expensive), according olympos website. All olympos are old stock they not manufactured it anymore, so thats why there is limited olympos airbrush or sold out stock.
An old friend from my school days lives in Japan and works as a translator, and was able to get in touch with somebody over there, and that was the info he was given. I tried contacting one of their Japanese vendors, but their English was horrible, and my Japanese is, well, none, so trying to find out what was going on was confusing, to say the least.
MP200's used to go for $500-$600 IF you were lucky enough to find one on eBay. Now you can buy them for $200 or less. Trust me, the cases and extra head unit don't make a $300-$400 difference. They're plastic.

My guess is that your vendor either doesn't know, or doesn't want you to know, that there is new production. From the sounds of it they may have someone new doing the manufacturing. The older needles I have would probably break before they'd bend. (Also, AndreZA, quit bumping stuff. Lol.) They are ridiculously hard, and definitely work best after they're polished

The only Olympos needle I've bent was on my HP100-B, and it was because I dropped it. I replaced the nozzle and needle with Iwata HP-B parts, but it wasn't quite the same. Eventually, on a tip, I tried Grex parts, and it's pretty damn close. The Grex parts are softer, but apparently quite a few details for their XN were borrowed from the HP100-B.
 
An old friend from my school days lives in Japan and works as a translator, and was able to get in touch with somebody over there, and that was the info he was given. I tried contacting one of their Japanese vendors, but their English was horrible, and my Japanese is, well, none, so trying to find out what was going on was confusing, to say the least.
MP200's used to go for $500-$600 IF you were lucky enough to find one on eBay. Now you can buy them for $200 or less. Trust me, the cases and extra head unit don't make a $300-$400 difference. They're plastic.

My guess is that your vendor either doesn't know, or doesn't want you to know, that there is new production. From the sounds of it they may have someone new doing the manufacturing. The older needles I have would probably break before they'd bend. (Also, AndreZA, quit bumping stuff. Lol.) They are ridiculously hard, and definitely work best after they're polished

The only Olympos needle I've bent was on my HP100-B, and it was because I dropped it. I replaced the nozzle and needle with Iwata HP-B parts, but it wasn't quite the same. Eventually, on a tip, I tried Grex parts, and it's pretty damn close. The Grex parts are softer, but apparently quite a few details for their XN were borrowed from the HP100-B.

If Grex parts are softer than Olympos then it will be like soft cheese heated up in a microwave.
 
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