Autoborne Sealers over one another

rmedtr6

Young Tutorling
I am painting my son's fiberglass goalie mask and am wondering about which products to use. I intend to use wicked colors and have also purchased the corresponding colors of auto borne sealer. The colors on the mask are black, white, yellow and red. I will be masking off a stallion head (old Calgary Flames logo) . I have prepped and primed the mask with Spraymax 2K primer and sanded with 6oo grit. Initially I had painted the black outline with wicked colors directly over the primer and masked off the outline of the stallion head. While repositioning a section of mask material (Oracal 813) i noticed some very small (pinhole) lifts of the black. I removed all the black with denatured alcohol and remanded with 600 grit dry. Since I have the Autoborne sealers in all of the colors I'll be using, would I be better served using them over the wicked colors? Black, then white, and then yellow. Can autoborne sealers be sprayed over one another?

Thanks in advance
 
Just to clarify, my last sentence...Would I be better served using auto borne sealer instead of the wicked colors at each layer of paint.
 
I would first lay down the 2k spraymax primer , then the autoborne sealer as a basecoat (also because it's dry-sandable), then go all out with wicked colors, then the clear.
From what i heard u also can use the sealers as intercoats if u got the transparant one too, so i think sealer over sealer will work also.

This video is very helpful:

greets Souldog Airbrush
 
As for autobourne o er autobourne no issues at all, just keep your mill thickness reasinable
 
Thank you for the advice. The createx website says 48 hours for fully cured and painted over in 30 minutes for th swale . How long of a cure would you all recommend prior to masking with Oracal?
 
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I would make a small test panel if i am not sure or don't know my paints good enough for test masking , adhesion , scratching and all that.
Always good to do before a big project.

But i would personally start masking in about a hour orso, and if the mask peels off my sealer i wont be that upset because i will repair that spot with more sealer and sand it flat again (dry sanding).
But the more reducer i use with the sealer the longer i wait before taping and masking.

Hope that helps u further amigo

-Souldog Airbrush
 
Just be sure to have wicked over top of any autoborne sealer before you clear.
Since I have the Autoborne sealers in all of the colors I'll be using, would I be better served using them over the wicked colors?

No, the term sealer can be misleading here if coming from art or some other paint system.
Think of autoborne sealer as Primer sealer. It is meant to go under wicked color and keep color from interacting with any previous coating.

Just be sure to have wicked color or ate least 4004 over top of any autoborne sealer before you clear. It can have interactions with many clearcoats and according to createx should not have 2k clear applied directly to it. It's not intended to be your final color. No bare sealer. So I would NOT use the sealers as basecoat.

That said ,color keying autoborne to the color over it is good but in my opinion you're working way too hard. Doing every single color of autoborne under every color of wicked is overkill. Again I would think of it as primer sealer. So best to just use all white in most areas. Wicked opaque is semi transparent so. Black if needing a really dark color (that isn't black) and clear if doing a color close to whats there already. Silver gives the color some depth. White makes it very opaque looking and bright. Primary like.
In your case most likely your whole stallion head can be best done over white autoborne.
I would probably simply hit the whole thing with white autoborne sealer.


What you experienced was most likely your 2k primer still offgassing. Best to give it a while (24hrs) after sanding and before painting. I would probably just hit the whole thing with autoborne sealer white and then do the rest the way you originally planned.
 
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It can be done, createx says just thoroughly degrease it, but for me no amount of prep-all could keep it from causing problems and if you get it to work I would think it wouldn't be ideal.


Never use degreaser over autobourne or wicked.

Odorless mineral spirits is what you should use if you have to clean artwork with createx products.
 
Never use degreaser over autobourne or wicked.

Odorless mineral spirits is what you should use if you have to clean artwork with createx products.
Hmm, ok. It would be nice if createx specified that when they say to degrease it, LOL. I guess saying thoroughly degrease it, but not with degreaser doesn't make much sense.
Of course, I wouldnt trust putting 2k clear over anything I just wiped down with mineral spirits either.
Good to know though. Thanks
 
Createx;
If used as finish color, clean Sealer thoroughly with degreaser prior to clear or apply 4004 Transparent Base as protective coat to prevent reaction between catalyzed clear and Sealer.


I'm confused.
But honestly I see no reason to try and figure out how to properly use it as a basecoat color anyhow.
 
You CAN use solvent based degreaser over wicked and Autobourne,However odorless mineral spirits is recommended. There is no residue and that's perfect prep for 2k.
If kept clean and tacked you shouldn't have to do anything to shoot directly on to autobourne.
 
You CAN use solvent based degreaser over wicked and Autobourne,However odorless mineral spirits is recommended. There is no residue and that's perfect prep for 2k.
If kept clean and tacked you shouldn't have to do anything to shoot directly on to autobourne.

Thats a long wait if you want to be sure it's gone. Plus depending on how high end it is I've found plenty of brands that do leave a residue including basically anything you get at the hardware store. If you've seen cars that were painted a year or two ago and look like they have oil slicks under the paint ,the mineral spirits was low grade or they didnt wait long enough.
I just don't prefer mineral spirits myself. Thats just me.

The bit of clear i put straight on autoborne, hazed and lifted at edges. Just as the instructions warn you not to do.
When I degreased it well as per createx instructions It worked, but would delaminate if flexed.
IMO if you use it as a base color you're forcing it to work in a way that isn't ideal.
Seems a bit like 2k clearing over acrylic enamels. Like all those early 90s cars that delaminated.

Of the two ways createx recommends to make it work as a base color, I'd prefer the 4004 method, that gives proper adhesion and eliminates reacting with the clear.
 
I agree you have to make sure your product is pure. Same with degreasers, never know what additives they used. I actually called and spoke to one of their chemists for clarification. Unfortunately their sheets have been added and amended several times. Occasionally appearing to conflict.
Some degreasers will take your art right off. So once you find what works for each person I suggest sticking to it!
 
Yeah it's one of the biggest pains in the butt really. Who wants to go buy the cleaners that are from each paint system?
Thats why I would just say heck with it, it's easy to just throw 4004 on it.
I might color key sealer to paint color for a big panel or something just to make it even. For something this size I'd just sealer white the whole thing and then do the color and artwork then clear it.
I honestly can't think of a reason to use sealer as base color for this, or to color key every single color.

The mineral oil is a good tip though, If I ever need to clean up some wicked before clearing. Obviously the acetone or acetone based stuff just eats it. The water based degreasers from Sherwin and the like ,seem like an option for that but I don't see myself keeping that around to occasionally take a fingerprint off wicked.
IPA seems to do the trick for that though. I haven't seen any adverse effect from that but i haven't done it often enough or long enough to know if that could be bad for a large area or something.
 
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Thanks everyone for the replies. Ive got 3 of the 4 colors laid down. I ended up spraying the top of the mask with Black Autoborne followed by wicked black, applied masks and then used wicked colors only. Opaque white followed by golden yellow/yellow mix. Hopefully the masks didn't bleed and (fingers crossed) they don't lift the black.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies. Ive got 3 of the 4 colors laid down. I ended up spraying the top of the mask with Black Autoborne followed by wicked black, applied masks and then used wicked colors only. Opaque white followed by golden yellow/yellow mix. Hopefully the masks didn't bleed and (fingers crossed) they don't lift the black.
Just be sure to give it time before clear. Just be sure to give it time before clear, seems like wicked likes at bare minimum about 6 hours to dry first.
 
Dupli-Color make a "Soy-Based Solvent Blend Removes Grease And Wax Prior To Painting" that works great. Also, I don't know if any of you have had trouble sanding Auto Borne Sealer after a few hours, it balls up like most water base. The only time It would sand to a dust was just as soon as it flashed off. I might be doing something wrong but I sprayed a guitar with it and had a hard time with my art peeling up from the sealer.
 
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