Paper and similar mediums query

V

V-Twin

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Can anyone please tell me (or describe) what the differences in use is of the following please.... (if you have used them obviously)...

Yupo paper
(or Yupo pad of 25 sheets of 85gsm - any good or too thin?)

Lana Vanguard 200gsm paper (similar to Yupo)

Lana Vanguard Polypropylene paper

Also,
I have bought 4 A1 sized sheets of 3mm thick foamboard for 10 gbp
1 pad of Daler Rowney Bristol Board 250gsm

Are these good to paint on (Com-Art) and scratch (blades and/or rubbers - erm ... erasers for you over the pond :) ) and is the Daler Rowney Bristol board good stuff or not?

thanks
 
Looks like they are all Synthetic papers and will react similar to erasing, all have slightly different personalities! I haven’t used vanguard but believe it to be good, I’ve used three different yupo papers and the Blair paper, yupo can go to about 90% of the Blair’s capabilities if used with care :)
 
oh, cheers for that musicmacd, much appreciated. Just trying to find out what is good and bad and what works well with erasing paint layers
using rubbers and blades.

Just for info, I conducted a little test by spraying onto a piece of A4 shiny paper that was the front marketing/packaging piece for a pack
of A4 clear poly pockets. I sprayed a light layer then got my blade and scratched gently..... wow.... it bloody worked :eek:.
So I carried on with more layers (actually a mini portrait of Prof Snape) and scraped away and it just kept working, taking paint away.
The blade did not go through the paper at all.

So now I understand that the surface has to be SHINY, or at least not totally absorbent for erasing to work well.

This leads me onto another idea that has just popped into my skull.
IF I cover the substrate (be it strong paper, mdf (uggghhh), or other wood mixes or whatever), with household Silk or Gloss emulsion,
can I then just paint straight onto that or will the acrylic paint (in my case Com-Art) react badly to it?
 
If it requires laser or eco solvent to print on, it's a fair bet it will work but every paper and every finish has a bit different personality as macd said.

You can clear coat most things with lots of different stuff to make it work ok.

Foam board requires some planning and precaution to keep it from curling up from painting it. Its terrible for trying to erase no matter what.
 
Oh, I do often spray glue a finished piece to foam board now though, just to make something rigid without going to the cost of framing it, or the weight of mdf.

Comart is practically watercolor or gouache, it really doesn't react badly to anything but maybe slicone and grease/oil.
 
Robbyrockett2 said:
If it requires laser or eco solvent to print on, it's a fair bet it will work but every paper and every finish has a bit different personality as macd said.

You can clear coat most things with lots of different stuff to make it work ok.

Foam board requires some planning and precaution to keep it from curling up from painting it. Its terrible for trying to erase no matter what.
Click to expand...

Oh crap!!!! :( Oh well, having 4 sheets of A1 size, I have a lot to get through in one way or another (thought it was a bargain price too) :laugh:
If you glue a picture to foam board, how then does one hang it on the wall? You can't put hooks into it as far as I can see?
Unless you also glue them onto the reverse side, which is what I guess you do with thin wood substrates too?

Think I'm gonna have some experimenting coming up soon then (once I have gone through my Job Apps and Interview [might be Interviews] over next week or two).
 
V-Twin said:
Oh crap!!!! :( Oh well, having 4 sheets of A1 size, I have a lot to get through in one way or another (thought it was a bargain price too) :laugh:
If you glue a picture to foam board, how then does one hang it on the wall? You can't put hooks into it as far as I can see?
Unless you also glue them onto the reverse side, which is what I guess you do with thin wood substrates too?

Think I'm gonna have some experimenting coming up soon then (once I have gone through my Job Apps and Interview [might be Interviews] over next week or two).
Click to expand...
Idk, I haven't hung any, lol
Just put em on shelves.
I guess that removable poster sticky gum stuff or like you said glue something on the reverse.
 
Bristol Board is fine for general practice, but it doesn’t erase well at all as it is still quite porous. But playing with all of them is the best bet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gareth White said:
With the Bristol board you can also spray it with Matt rattle can varnish which makes it non absorbent.
Click to expand...
If you want a less absorbent surface then just get some poster board and spray it with the rattle can clear. Don’t waste the Bristol board.

Once you spray any substrate you are no longer spraying on the substrate but on what you have coated it with
 
I have only used the lana vanguard, but with regards to erasing (and using Wicked paints with 4012, which does aid the curing) I found that the amount of dry time had an effect for me. It erased all the way back to white paper, but after leaving a while was able to get a more gradual effect, and the longer it was left the harder it was to erase - although saying that, it was still fairly easy to erase all the way back. But with different pressures and a softer eraser I was quite happy with the different effects I could get if I was careful.
 
Robby, Gareth, Si, Jacky, Squish; many thanks for help, info and tips. I have thought about spraying the substrate with something first,
but was not sure with what, might give Gareths idea a go at some point. - all good notes to take for me! :thumbsup:

I think I might buy some bits 'n' pieces from Art Supplies (Ken Bromley), namely Clay board, Lana Vanguard (paper and the plastic stuff)
and want to get some saral tracedown paper to try out too, as this site seems to be cheapest I can find at present.

I have 3 unopened box sets of Com-Art to use yet, and toying with the idea of possibly trying something else out, but no idea what yet,
but Createx Illustration or e'tac EFX keep running round my head, as I think these paints might be 'workable' for longer, as I am finding
that the Com-Art dries instantly and can't be removed, but that could be down to the substrate type and not the paint.
I am still learning the intricacies of how substrate and mediums react with each other.

I have started my first portrait attempt (B/W - ala TuffNutz styleeeeeee) and allready having issues with how the hell do I start and where!
Using a sheet of Daler Rowney Bristol board from the pad I bought, I am 'attempting' Professor Snape and have begun doing
his hair freehand. I have (and am) using rubber erasors to keep highlights present.

The rubbers are working (kind of), in that they do remove a 'little' paint and you can definitely see a little difference in shade next to the
untouched areas. I am using Com-Art Transparent Black and thinners at 1:2 or 1:3 ratios) and doing light passes.
The hair is gonna take me quite some time to complete I think at this rate.

And correction to my Foam board, it is 5mm thick (not 3mm as previously said).
 
V-Twin said:
I have 3 unopened box sets of Com-Art to use yet, and toying with the idea of possibly trying something else out, but no idea what yet,
but Createx Illustration or e'tac EFX keep running round my head, as I think these paints might be 'workable' for longer, as I am finding
that the Com-Art dries instantly and can't be removed, but that could be down to the substrate type and not the paint.
Click to expand...

Com-art is a great paint. It is much easier to manipulate than Createx Illustration. Read more here.
 
@AndreZA I had seen that page before but forgot about it. Will re-read that all over again soon (got job interview tomorrow first), and will
now keep to my Com-Art and try it out on new substrate types to see what happens and how I get on with it.

Also @Squishy ; thanks for input on the Saral, I am aiming to get the Yellow or Carbon (perhaps both), as my painting is at present
done on White substrates only.

cheers to you all.
 
Be careful with the saral paper, the slightest touch will result in a mark on your substrate, I suggest a test run with normal printer paper instead of your proper substrate to show how messy it can get and don’t drag it off the substrate, lift it. It can make a lot of mess if you’re not careful,
 
JackEb said:
Be careful with the saral paper, the slightest touch will result in a mark on your substrate, I suggest a test run with normal printer paper instead of your proper substrate to show how messy it can get and don’t drag it off the substrate, lift it. It can make a lot of mess if you’re not careful,
Click to expand...

Oh wow.... thanks Jackie, I did not know that.... now I do :thumbsup: :). I currently use normal tracing paper up to A3 size, then have to
do the usual soft pencil rub and re-draw again, takes me quite a while to get done. I was thinking of using normal typewriter style
carbon copy paper, but if the Saral is the the 'proper' and better way, then I will do that. Cheers to you !
 
Dont get me wrong, its brilliant stuff, but I used the black on a white car recently and I think it took me just as long to clean up the mess (magic eraser for the win after trying everything else in my arsenal) as it did to airbrush the piece lol the slightest roughness to a surface and it will grab the graphite.
The graphite is the reason that its the 'proper' stuff as opposed to carbon paper, it wont repel paint, some carbon papers can be a bit waxy.
 
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