HP-CS trigger question

[Darkfine]

I purchased an HP-CS by Iwata recently and just got the compressor in so have been playing around with it.

I notice with the air action on the trigger there is a dead space of about half of the action. I can put my finger under the hat of the trigger and pop it up another couple of millimeters or so but that space essentially doesn’t do anything when trying to control the air flow.

This means the I have almost no trigger action to control how much air I get from the brush itself.

Is this normal? I have watched a lot of video but can’t really tell how much play is in the triggers.

Thanks for your time!

Quick follow up as I think about it, I have heard the iwata cleaner isn’t ideal, is this true? Something about it gunking up in the brush.

 

[huskystafford]

No dead space on eclipse. I have 2. Or I just don't notice -.- Either way, you should push trigger all the way down and just pull back when you control how much paint goes out of your airbrush. There is no need to control how much air you have with trigger, you got regulator for that.

Iwata lube gunk stuff. Not the cleaner.

 

[Mr.Micron]

I purchased an HP-CS by Iwata recently and just got the compressor in so have been playing around with it.

I notice with the air action on the trigger there is a dead space of about half of the action. I can put my finger under the hat of the trigger and pop it up another couple of millimeters or so but that space essentially doesn’t do anything when trying to control the air flow.

This means the I have almost no trigger action to control how much air I get from the brush itself.

Is this normal? I have watched a lot of video but can’t really tell how much play is in the triggers.

Thanks for your time!

Quick follow up as I think about it, I have heard the iwata cleaner isn’t ideal, is this true? Something about it gunking up in the brush.

Did you take the airbrush apart when you got it?
A lot of time newbies will take apart an airbrush and not really pay attention to the half moon cut out on the backside of the trigger and end up putting it in backwards.
Not really sure what you mean by dead spot , You push down for air so how high a trigger will travel is until it hits the needle which is not a part of how you airbrush anyway. then when you pull back on the trigger you get paint.

Now run a long and make a proper introduction https://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

 

[Darkfine]

The up and down on the trigger. Basically there is just enough play in the up and down from its resting position to either get almost no air or full blast.

The absolute height of the trigger, where you can lift it up with your finger would hypothetically give enough play to actually control the air but most of the trigger action is dead, doesn’t do anything.

Is that normal?

Also quick edit, I did break it down and reassemble under YouTube tutelage, I got the notch on the trigger correctly positioned on the rear I think.

 

[MarcosD]

The up and down on the trigger. Basically there is just enough play in the up and down from its resting position to either get almost no air or full blast.

The absolute height of the trigger, where you can lift it up with your finger would hypothetically give enough play to actually control the air but most of the trigger action is dead, doesn’t do anything.

Is that normal?

Also quick edit, I did break it down and reassemble under YouTube tutelage, I got the notch on the trigger correctly positioned on the rear I think.

It works that way, air on - air off you control the air with the air pressure with your mac, very few airbrush let you control the air pressure with your finger and you must be an extremely good airbrusher to do it!!


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[Darkfine]

Fair enough, thanks for the replies all!

Probably just misunderstood what the brush was capable of.

 

[Mr.Micron]

Yes you do not control the air flow with the trigger all you get is full on or full off. The PSI you spray at can be sat either using the dail gauge on the compressor or a Mac Valve that goes in the line , Between the line and airbrush that is.
Some airbrushes Like the Micron CM-C+ has a built in mac vavle on the front nose of the airbrush.
Depending what paint you're using will drive the PSI you want the compressor set at. The more reduction you have your paint the lower the PSI you will shoot at. Most airbrush paint suggest 30 to 35 PSI unless your using straight textile paint then there is no reduction and you spray at about 60PSI.

 

[Darkfine]

Good info, I’ll check out that Mac Valve.

I’ll be using water based acrylics and from what I’ve read will be at a psi from 15-25 depending on what I’m doing.

 

[DaveG]

On the trigger of the Eclipse, there is a small push pin connected to the bottom of the actual trigger. What you are feeling is the gap in the trigger where the needle fits through, and the top of the push pin connected to the bottom. Most people just use the trigger for an on/off switch as far as air pressure. I am, however, not one of them . I do actually use my trigger to control air flow through the brush, but this is not a skill I would expect one to learn too quickly. It takes a good long time to develop a feel for the trigger to know how much pressure to apply to initiate air flow without going full on... A lot of people tell me I am crazy when I suggest that I do use my trigger this way .

As suggested, add a MAC valve to your hose and work with that to get to understand air flow and trigger control.

 

[Darkfine]

Stopped reading and pulled the trigger!

https://imgur.com/a/yQRzg99

Thanks again all!

Dave, I messed around with just air and my palm last night trying to play around with it, got a little control but I’ll keep working on it!

 

[SiRoxx]

Stopped reading and pulled the trigger!

https://imgur.com/a/yQRzg99

Thanks again all!

Dave, I messed around with just air and my palm last night trying to play around with it, got a little control but I’ll keep working on it!

Recognisable characters! That’s better than my first pull of the trigger LOL.


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[wickedartstudio]

Quick follow up as I think about it, I have heard the iwata cleaner isn’t ideal, is this true? Something about it gunking up in the brush.

I also control the amount of air exiting the brush by how much I depress the trigger, but as others have already mentioned, it takes a lot of practice to perfect that technique.

To answer your other question... I think you're referring to the Iwata Super Lube, not the Iwata airbrush cleaner. The old Super Lube formula is a blue colored lube that absolutely will gum up in your airbrush. They have a newer formula that is clear (I think). The newer formula isn't supposed to gum up like the old, but I've never tried it either.