Custom CM-B

Bryan71

Double Actioner
I was lucky enough to be able to buy a B it’s taken a lot of selling bits and bobs to buy these.
Toying with either and Eclipse or a HP-C 50th Anniversary.But nervous because it doesn’t have the Teflon needle seal.
 

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Are you painting with Urethane's or solvent based paint? If not forget about worrying about the seal - the o-ring actually offers a better trigger feel. If you are using solvents just replace the seal with a teflon seal - they are available from anyone stocking Iwata parts
 
Don’t all take the Mick but how easy is to change the O ring.
I need a nice general purpose airbrush and like the look of the HP-C
 
Don’t all take the Mick but how easy is to change the O ring.
I need a nice general purpose airbrush and like the look of the HP-C

Iwata makes a tool for adjusting the needle packing - it looks like a long screw driver with a pin sticking out of it. With the tool, it is super easy - without, well, you have to figure out a way to reach the thing.

iwata-packing-tool1.jpg
 
Appearing to sound completely thick once i’ve replaced it.Is it just a case of screwing it back in.Or is it a case of putting the needle in a playing around for clearance if you understand
 
Appearing to sound completely thick once i’ve replaced it.Is it just a case of screwing it back in.Or is it a case of putting the needle in a playing around for clearance if you understand

Another reason I prefer the Iwata tool - the pin is the same diameter as the needle (they have two sizes 1.2mm and 1.4mm). You can feel the adjustment on the packing seal as you do it, simply by sliding the tool in and out a little. Without the tool, you have to put the screw in, insert the needle, and feel it - adjust and feel again, etc, till you have it "right" . Not too tight, or it will bind the needle and make the trigger feel heavy. Not too light, or paint will leak back into the trigger area.
 
I don't want people to think the only thing I am trying to do is hock product ;)
I couldn't resist to not write this...

I am willing to bet one nice cold Guiness, nobody on this forum thinks you wanna hock a product. Quite opposite. I am willing to bet, all people here, see you as a great help with your knowledge and your modified stuff you make for better airbrush experience.
 
hehehehe, I try to avoid pushing product when responding to posts - because I don't want people to think the only thing I am trying to do is hock product ;)

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You have my permission (not that it’s worth much) to link to any products you have that will benefit members.
If anyone cares to report your posts then Herb and I will see them and act accordingly (filing the post in the appropriate place to deal with ‘later’ lol)
 
I couldn't resist to not write this...

I am willing to bet one nice cold Guiness, nobody on this forum thinks you wanna hock a product. Quite opposite. I am willing to bet, all people here, see you as a great help with your knowledge and your modified stuff you make for better airbrush experience.
Very true indeed.
 
hehehehe, I try to avoid pushing product when responding to posts - because I don't want people to think the only thing I am trying to do is hock product ;)

Besides, he's in the UK, and shipping costs have gone up :cry:.

Maybe, I'd behave the same as you, that's why the direction to the product was given:)

The seal is all worth having, so the shipping cost wouldn't beat the pleasure and precision of professional working with the seal. Especially, if buying a few O-rings or more.
I wouldn't advise them, if I wasn't satisfied with the results. For detail ABs these O-rings is a must.


Don’t all take the Mick but how easy is to change the O ring.
I need a nice general purpose airbrush and like the look of the HP-C

For changing the O-ring, magical stick works the best, one can get it out of the tooth pick box;)

HP-C is much more convenient brush than HP-C+ to my preference. It's definitely worth changing rubber O-ring it has to solvent proof one.

Sounds like I'm promoting the product:D But it's just good advice.
 
Has anyone a pic of the HP-C Anniversary brush more interested in the difference inside the paint cup between it and the Plus version please
 
Has anyone a pic of the HP-C Anniversary brush more interested in the difference inside the paint cup between it and the Plus version please

I don't have a photo but the reason I do not like the regular C is the cavity in the body is huge. If you paint horisontally, you can not just use a few drops as the cavity is deep and long. If you tilt the nozzle down it is better. Just look at a HP-A. The C basically just have taller walls. The C+ has a smaller hole in the body hence the tapered cup.
 
Thanks Dave quite a big difference.
Just now a decision on with other brush to purchase.It’s either the HP-C or HP-C Plus and on the list an Eclipse.
It’s going to be my general purpose modelling brush for 1/48 aircraft.
 
Thanks Dave quite a big difference.
Just now a decision on with other brush to purchase.It’s either the HP-C or HP-C Plus and on the list an Eclipse.
It’s going to be my general purpose modelling brush for 1/48 aircraft.

6 one, half dozen the other - the three of them are very similar. The HP-C and C+ use the same bits that matter, so they perform the same. I personally prefer the Plus as it is a little easier to clean, and I like the overall balance better. I also prefer the trigger feel on the HP's over the Eclipse. Both the C and C+ atomize just a little finer than the Eclipse, but we are splitting hairs. Not too sure that there is enough of a difference during use to say one is superior to the other in any direction, here.
 
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