Helmet Painting Createx Waterbased HELP

panicrevll28

Young Tutorling
Yes okay, started with a nice helmet, sanded it down from 400 to 600 to 900 to 1500. then i primed it and did it all over again. started with the createx white paint and layed a nice few coats over it. now i am at the point that it all starts getting blurry for me

Waterbased paint will fade when wet-sand beceause its waterbased what can i do ?

do i need to clear coat to be able to sand and lay different colors over it ?

maybe its me but i just cant find anything about this so thats why i am trying to get a hand from you guys.
 
Dunno what you mean by blurry.

You could always try to intercoat it before you get epic.

Once you have you artwork mint.

Tack coat in auto lacquer (mist coat so it doesn't crazy)

Wait 10. Go again but slightly heavier.

Wait 15. Go again with a wet coat.

Poss another coat of lacquer, but personally i hate the stuff, takes forever to cure if your flash times out, and you'll only have to cut it back before polishing anyway.
 
Dunno what you mean by blurry.

You could always try to intercoat it before you get epic.

Once you have you artwork mint.

Tack coat in auto lacquer (mist coat so it doesn't crazy)

Wait 10. Go again but slightly heavier.

Wait 15. Go again with a wet coat.

Poss another coat of lacquer, but personally i hate the stuff, takes forever to cure if your flash times out, and you'll only have to cut it back before polishing anyway.


I already have intercoat mixed with the paint. the case is that when i am going to sand the helmet the paint will just come off when it reacts with water ?
how do must of the guys handle this ?
 
What createx are you using ? Standard createx, Wicked/Wicked detail, Cretex illustration , AutoAir or Waterbourne?
With water base after you prep the surface and primer it and prep the primer then you simple base coat it and add artwork then clear.
Also why are you mixing the 4030 or 4040 with the paint unless it is to make it more transparent.
This is why we like to see and read introductions from folks it lets us no how much you know about airbrushing and paint in general.
you can find the introduction section here https://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/
 
What createx are you using ? Standard createx, Wicked/Wicked detail, Cretex illustration , AutoAir or Waterbourne?
With water base after you prep the surface and primer it and prep the primer then you simple base coat it and add artwork then clear.
Also why are you mixing the 4030 or 4040 with the paint unless it is to make it more transparent.
This is why we like to see and read introductions from folks it lets us no how much you know about airbrushing and paint in general.
you can find the introduction section here https://www.airbrushforum.org/introductions/

I'm using the Normal Wicked to paint the whole helmet and im trying to use some different fluo/metallic colors (also from wicked) for a nice design.
i believed that when you use the 4030 clear you dont have any problems with masking off different pieces of the helmet without paint thats coming off. at their website i read that this substant will prevent this.

or am i wrong at using the wicked paint as a base coat ?
 
1500 is way too slick for pre primer. 400 is all you need, then prime then 600 or 800 then base.

I only cut back before clear in the case of things like flames, where all the candy and intercoat can get really grainy at edges. In which case its just a real light wet knock down with 2000. Yes sanded sections will dull, but wont look that way when cleared. If you have any doubts, spray it with water (once its nice and dry of course) til its got a wet film, Generally thats what its going to look like when cleared.
Fully cleared wicked can be wetsanded without taking it all off, it is waterborne not waterbased so its basically almost as waterproof as anything else once cured.

Otherwise wicked is fine as basecoat then artwork over that then straight to clear. If it needs wiped down from handling or something i just use non ammonia glass cleaner because I havent found any wax and grease removers gentle enough for wicked with detailed artwork.

If you have 4030 mixed into the paint it will be very easy to get dry spray, i suspect maybe you have that and thats why you feel it needs sanded before clear?

You can 4030 over sections before taping but it shouldnt normally be necessary.

Any complex art work IME generally has to go through a flow coat process to level the clear. In other words you'll clear it, let that cure, block sand it with 1200 (more so in raised areas) , clear it again. This is how you end up with a nice even, level clear.

One tip, wicked is multi-purpose , so its made to be able to be used in some instances by itself in the way you would use a colored enamel, however thats not how youre trying to use it here. If its so thick its shiny and glossy and looks like finsihed paint on its own, youve gone too far. It doesnt hurt much but keep in mind you want to try to use it like basecoat.

Last tip, you pretty much never want to sand a metallic...its ugly.
 
600 or 800 is great for a base. Anything more is too smooth as Robby said. Most Createx products are 2 stage. What they mean by that is that they don’t dry to a gloss finish. They will dry more Matt and require a gloss clear coat to bring out the colours, much like a traditional Urethane system.


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As above, Because it's a water based paint it adheres by a mechanical process unlike solvents which basically melt into each other so for the mechanical bond you need a surface which has something for the paint to bite into hence 600 grit but no finer than 800 grit for the base a bit coarser for the primer. It's always a safe bet to use a clear in between the metallic base and any artwork so if you screw up you could lightly sand off the artwork without damaging the baseunderneath. Clear again if you want to protect your artwork or want to add some more without compromising your other work. Here's a great guide to wet sanding your work at the end.


Lee
 
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