Painting helmets and guitars

Rebecca

Mac-Valve Maestro!
Hi everyone,
I’ve only been airbrushing this year and have little knowledge about different paints, thinners, clears, etc. I have an Iwata Neo, and an Iwata Cm and have only used Createx Illustration paints on paper and aluminum panels. So my husband wants me to paint a guitar and a crash helmet. There are plenty of YouTube videos I can watch when I get time but my main question is will I need different paints and different equipment to spray the top clear coat? Should i invest in an inexpensive gun with a larger nozzle or just buy some clear in a spray can? And what brand or type paints and clear would be best for these projects? Thanks in advance for the help. You all are always so helpful!!
 
Thanks Mr. Micron. I’ve got a workshop out behind my house I do all my spraying clears and fixatives, but not 2K. Never used it. I’ll need to probably get a better respirator than just the dust mask. I’m guessing I need to let the graphics set up for several days before clear?
 
Thanks Mr. Micron. I’ve got a workshop out behind my house I do all my spraying clears and fixatives, but not 2K. Never used it. I’ll need to probably get a better respirator than just the dust mask. I’m guessing I need to let the graphics set up for several days before clear?
I usually give them 48 hours when the temps are around 70 to 80 before clearing coating .
and yes you will need a better mask for spraying the clear. I recommend 2k clear on a helmet but you can get by with 1k http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SprayMax_1_Part_Clear_Coat which is a bit more fogiving on flash coat times. PPG also make a nice durable 2 part clear but you would need a spray gun for that .
Mainly the new I suggested are automotive proven and do not flake off over time like krylon will do
 
I usually give them 48 hours when the temps are around 70 to 80 before clearing coating .
and yes you will need a better mask for spraying the clear. I recommend 2k clear on a helmet but you can get by with 1k http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SprayMax_1_Part_Clear_Coat which is a bit more fogiving on flash coat times. PPG also make a nice durable 2 part clear but you would need a spray gun for that .
Mainly the new I suggested are automotive proven and do not flake off over time like krylon will do
I usually give them 48 hours when the temps are around 70 to 80 before clearing coating .
and yes you will need a better mask for spraying the clear. I recommend 2k clear on a helmet but you can get by with 1k http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SprayMax_1_Part_Clear_Coat which is a bit more fogiving on flash coat times. PPG also make a nice durable 2 part clear but you would need a spray gun for that .
Mainly the new I suggested are automotive proven and do not flake off over time like krylon will do
Thank you. I’m sorry but I don’t know what a flash coat is....so much to learn.
 
Flash coat is time between coats of clear you start with a dust coat then a flow coat and the a final coat there is a min and max times between the coats
Hope that makes so in e sense.
 
my main question is will I need different paints and different equipment to spray the top clear coat? Should i invest in an inexpensive gun with a larger nozzle or just buy some clear in a spray can? And what brand or type paints and clear would be best for these projects? Thanks in advance for the help. You all are always so helpful!!

I'd say an inexpensive gun would be better than spray cans, you have better control over application of the material, there's also economy of the material, for in the case of using 2K spray can, you must use all the volume that's activated and throw away the volume that's not applied. In the case of using the spray gun, you can mix (activate) just the volume you need. 1K clear cans is the thing you should forget:) Only 2K clears!

Brands? PPG is the way to go! Both for colours (their base coat line) and for 2K clears. Here I can buy the volume of 100ml of any colour from their stand, it's very convenient. I guarantee, you will be surprised how great urethane basecoats work compared to waterbased paints you used before. Only thing changes in the case of using urethanes - you must wear charcoal filter respirator. As I understand, you've got great place to work with any type of paint, good for you! Also, nitrile gloves are great both for thinners and for ABing itself, you wouldn't leave anything on the painted surface while painting.
I can work all day long in this type of gloves unless not under straight sun rays.
 
Great info Vladimir. What is a good choice of spray gun? I know nothing about the Urethanes, or paints in general. I have been a graphite pencil artist for a few years and just started airbrushing so all the paint terminology is new to me. Appreciate the info!
 
There some great advice here from Mr M and Vlad. There are pros and cons to both the spray cans and a gun. If you have a compressor powerful enough to run a gun, then there’s the benefit of picking up another skill, but when you factor in a compressor, mask, gun, enough clear coat to practice and then use for the job, then the 2k cans seem pretty good value for money. I have used the cans in the past and had some great results, I upgraded all of my kit and bought a spray gun because I wanted to learn using one of those too.
So basically, unless you particularly want to learn to use a spray gun for the hell of it, the cans are good for the odd project here and there. If you want to learn the guns too, then go for it.
Just my humble opinion.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great info Vladimir. What is a good choice of spray gun? I know nothing about the Urethanes, or paints in general. I have been a graphite pencil artist for a few years and just started airbrushing so all the paint terminology is new to me. Appreciate the info!
To start answering of what good choice of a spray gun is, I think that there's good point from Simon! Key words are:
but when you factor in a compressor
I thought, there was big compressor somewhere in the place, where you can spray and paint:) Indeed, do you have big compressor? What model? From here it would be better to start advising the gun. I can tell, there's pretty huge choice of them out there in the US.

"Urethanes" is general name for automotive basecoat systems based on organic thinners. Urethane is one of the components of the paint mix, so from here the name appears.
Basecoat is 1K paint that must be covered with the clear. It's very convenient to use with an airbrush, but only in the case where you can work with fumes, no way to work in living area for the reason of using organic thinners. You've got that space to work with urethanes.
You can find locally either bodywork shop or company that coulourmatching paints for car repair, just go there and buy quantity of paint you need. You can choose the colours you need from the pallet of colours ans guys would pour them for you.
The paint stand looks like this:

ppg stand.jpg

What you see on the stand is only mix of pure pigments with the carrier. They are thick for the AB, you should buy thinner to dilute them to the state, when they'll go well through AB nozzle.
As I've said, they're pure pigment (not mix of pigment as some ready to go "special" airbrush paints are). So you can mix your own colours you need and learn the behavior of pigments and and use this knowledge for your advantage.

tins.jpeg

After AB work is done it needs clearcoating, PPG does have range of the clears:)
One of them:

2031888350_w640_h640_lak-deltron-ppg.jpg

Besides clears, basecoats, PPG has just everything you need for airbrushing and custom painting, concerning paint works. It's very good brand, I know no one having troubles with their products.

BTW, found someone selling PPG products in small bottles for ABing;)
https://airbrushsupplynetwork.com.au/80-ppg-kits
This means...;)
 
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To start answering of what good choice of a spray gun is, I think that there's good point from Simon! Key words are:
I thought, there was big compressor somewhere in the place, where you can spray and paint:) Indeed, do you have big compressor? What model? From here it would be better to start advising the gun. I can tell, there's pretty huge choice of them out there in the US.

"Urethanes" is general name for automotive basecoat systems based on organic thinners. Urethane is one of the components of the paint mix, so from here the name appears.
Basecoat is 1K paint that must be covered with the clear. It's very convenient to use win an airbrush, but only in the case where you can work with fumes, no way to work in living area for the reason of using organic thinners. You've got that space to work with urethanes.
You can find locally either bodywork shop or company that coulourmatching paints for car repair, just go there and buy quantity of paint you need. You can choose the colours you need from the pallet of colours ans guys would pour them fro you.
The paint stand looks like this:

View attachment 60892

What you see on the stand is only mix of pure pigments with the carrier. They are thick for the AB, you should buy thinner to dilute them to the state, when they'll go well through AB nozzle.
As I've said, they're pure pigment (not mix of pigment as some ready to go "special" airbrush paints are. So you can mix your own colours you need and learn the behavior of pigments and and use this knowledge for your advantage.

View attachment 60893

After AB work is done it needs clearcoating, PPG does have range of the clears:)
One of them:

View attachment 60894

Besides clears, basecoats, PPG has just everything you need for airbrushing and custom painting, concerning paint works. It's very good brand, I know no one having troubles with their products.

BTW, found someone selling PPG products in small bottles for ABing;)
https://airbrushsupplynetwork.com.au/80-ppg-kits
This means...;)
I think you’re right about there being a larger compressor Vlad, I also think I remember reading that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To start answering of what good choice of a spray gun is, I think that there's good point from Simon! Key words are:
I thought, there was big compressor somewhere in the place, where you can spray and paint:) Indeed, do you have big compressor? What model? From here it would be better to start advising the gun. I can tell, there's pretty huge choice of them out there in the US.

"Urethanes" is general name for automotive basecoat systems based on organic thinners. Urethane is one of the components of the paint mix, so from here the name appears.
Basecoat is 1K paint that must be covered with the clear. It's very convenient to use with an airbrush, but only in the case where you can work with fumes, no way to work in living area for the reason of using organic thinners. You've got that space to work with urethanes.
You can find locally either bodywork shop or company that coulourmatching paints for car repair, just go there and buy quantity of paint you need. You can choose the colours you need from the pallet of colours ans guys would pour them for you.
The paint stand looks like this:

View attachment 60892

What you see on the stand is only mix of pure pigments with the carrier. They are thick for the AB, you should buy thinner to dilute them to the state, when they'll go well through AB nozzle.
As I've said, they're pure pigment (not mix of pigment as some ready to go "special" airbrush paints are). So you can mix your own colours you need and learn the behavior of pigments and and use this knowledge for your advantage.

View attachment 60893

After AB work is done it needs clearcoating, PPG does have range of the clears:)
One of them:

View attachment 60894

Besides clears, basecoats, PPG has just everything you need for airbrushing and custom painting, concerning paint works. It's very good brand, I know no one having troubles with their products.

BTW, found someone selling PPG products in small bottles for ABing;)
https://airbrushsupplynetwork.com.au/80-ppg-kits
This means...;)
Thank you for all this information. I do not have a big compressor, only my small one for my Iwata cm. Now I have something to work and save for, lol. I appreciate the help so much.
 
Thank you for all this information. I do not have a big compressor, only my small one for my Iwata cm. Now I have something to work and save for, lol. I appreciate the help so much.

There's not much to advise then:) But! I hope that compressor you've got now might feed this one https://tcpglobal.com/collections/spray-guns-gravity-feed/products/tcp-f3-set. It is what I'd choose for AB compressor with the tank, it should feed the gun set to round paint pattern (at least). You can use this for the projects you've started the thread for. It covers tasks for basecoating and clearcoating of small surfaces. And this thing will also give you understanding of work with bigger guns.

Big compressor is a must for you. You've got good potential you must improve. The compressor will pay for itself very fast;) Having one you can choose among plenty of spray guns and other pneumatic tools.
 
There's not much to advise then:) But! I hope that compressor you've got now might feed this one https://tcpglobal.com/collections/spray-guns-gravity-feed/products/tcp-f3-set. It is what I'd choose for AB compressor with the tank, it should feed the gun set to round paint pattern (at least). You can use this for the projects you've started the thread for. It covers tasks for basecoating and clearcoating of small surfaces. And this thing will also give you understanding of work with bigger guns.

Big compressor is a must for you. You've got good potential you must improve. The compressor will pay for itself very fast;) Having one you can choose among plenty of spray guns and other pneumatic tools.
Thank you so much! I’ve got lots to do for sure.
 
I would worry about cfm also. Basically it is the measurement for the air flow. Your compressor would need to supply that at a regular pace to keep feeding the gun...
 
I would worry about cfm also. Basically it is the measurement for the air flow. Your compressor would need to supply that at a regular pace to keep feeding the gun...
Thanks Twood. My compressor is a Master Airbrush T-40. Specs ay
I would worry about cfm also. Basically it is the measurement for the air flow. Your compressor would need to supply that at a regular pace to keep feeding the gun...
Thanks twood. My compressor is a Master Airbrush 40-T. Specs say .8cfm at 57psi. I don’t know if that’s good or bad, that’s just the rating lol
 
Thanks Twood. My compressor is a Master Airbrush T-40. Specs ay

Thanks twood. My compressor is a Master Airbrush 40-T. Specs say .8cfm at 57psi. I don’t know if that’s good or bad, that’s just the rating lol

Here are the specs from the gun mentioned
  • Air Inlet: 1/4"
  • Air Pressure: 30-60 PSI (2.0-4.0bar)
  • Air Consumption: 2.5-6.0 CFM
  • Cup: 7 Ounces (100 ml) Aluminum Gravity Feed Side Mount
  • Nozzle Atomizing Sets in sizes: 0.5mm, 0.8mm & 1.0mm
looks like you might not have enough
 
Here are the specs from the gun mentioned
  • Air Inlet: 1/4"
  • Air Pressure: 30-60 PSI (2.0-4.0bar)
  • Air Consumption: 2.5-6.0 CFM
  • Cup: 7 Ounces (100 ml) Aluminum Gravity Feed Side Mount
  • Nozzle Atomizing Sets in sizes: 0.5mm, 0.8mm & 1.0mm
looks like you might not have enough
Looks like I might need a little more oomph, lol
 
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