MAC valves

Scott

Double Actioner
Got a newbie question about MAC valves.


On @DaveG’s suggestion I ordered a PS 770 today and it comes with a built in MAC valve. I have read a few things and watched a few videos about how the integrated MAC valves. Are the integrated MAC valves and the inline MAC valves you can buy and attach to your air hose work the same way?
 
The built in MAC valve chokes the airflow to the nozzle. The best way to work with them is to set the pressure at your regulator about right for your mix and use the the MAC valve on the brush to drop the pressure when moving close for small details. It can be used for a lot of other techniques, but that’ll give you a good idea of how they work.
 
Got a newbie question about MAC valves.

On @DaveG’s suggestion I ordered a PS 770 today and it comes with a built in MAC valve. I have read a few things and watched a few videos about how the integrated MAC valves. Are the integrated MAC valves and the inline MAC valves you can buy and attach to your air hose work the same way?

Congrats on the 770 - nice brush! Yes, a MAC valve, as long as it is inline before the head, assembly works exactly the same whether on the brush, or hose...
 
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Got a newbie question about MAC valves.


On @DaveG’s suggestion I ordered a PS 770 today and it comes with a built in MAC valve. I have read a few things and watched a few videos about how the integrated MAC valves. Are the integrated MAC valves and the inline MAC valves you can buy and attach to your air hose work the same way?
And congrats on buying a great brush. Take some time I leant it and it’ll be a fantastic tool.
 
MAC valves are great, regardless if they’re built into the brush or an external attached at the airline end of the brush.
My personal preference is external, I have one and now I can buy any Iwata that has no Inbuilt Mac valve and save $$ (there are adapters for badger & paasche
 
Thanks everyone. I figured they were the same but I wanted to make sure. I am excited for the brush after watching a bunch of video reviews on them. I probably shouldn't have pulled the trigger but the price at Spray Gunner was too good to pass up and I won a golf event that gave me alittle extra fun money so I figured why the hell not.
 
Thanks everyone. I figured they were the same but I wanted to make sure. I am excited for the brush after watching a bunch of video reviews on them. I probably shouldn't have pulled the trigger but the price at Spray Gunner was too good to pass up and I won a golf event that gave me alittle extra fun money so I figured why the hell not.
Nah, grab it and use it. The worst that will happen is it gets damaged, it’s no the end of the world as the PS770 parts aren’t too expensive.
 
Nah, grab it and use it. The worst that will happen is it gets damaged, it’s no the end of the world as the PS770 parts aren’t too expensive.


Good point. I am still trying to figure out my NEO, but I am getting so frustrated with the trigger throw on it know that my entire reason for picking up airbrushing was to work on small items and needing small detail. I am hoping that the machining tolerances with this brush are quite a bit tighter than the NEO and the control of the trigger will be slightly easier. I could be 100% wrong though.
 
You can pull tight detail with the neo or for that matter a cs or bcs Eclipse but it takes a lot of practice and control to do so . That is why most buy a detail brush to make it easier.
Being I hardly ever use the mac valve being I want to know what PSI I am shooting at and not just guessing I use the regulator on the airline.
 
The NEO's trigger is just like most other brushes in terms of construction, and function. I suspect there is something else going on that you are interpreting as a trigger issue. Needle packing poorly adjusted, and binding the needle. Or, dried paint on the needle catching in the packing, etc. Try taking the needle out, and working the trigger - does it still feel like it is binding? Loosen the spring retainer, chucking guide a half turn, and work the trigger - how's it feel? I have seen one or two that had the chuck catch a lip in the chucking guide if they were turned a certain way (not Neo's, but brushes in general).
 
The NEO's trigger is just like most other brushes in terms of construction, and function. I suspect there is something else going on that you are interpreting as a trigger issue. Needle packing poorly adjusted, and binding the needle. Or, dried paint on the needle catching in the packing, etc. Try taking the needle out, and working the trigger - does it still feel like it is binding? Loosen the spring retainer, chucking guide a half turn, and work the trigger - how's it feel? I have seen one or two that had the chuck catch a lip in the chucking guide if they were turned a certain way (not Neo's, but brushes in general).

Its not so much that it bind as its feels inconsistent. Sometimes it feels and looks as though I have to pull the trigger back a very tiny amount and paint comes pouring out sometimes it take a long pull to get any paint of any kind out and then all of a sudden without warning I get a big blob of paint. I have played with the chucking guide and it hasn't seemed like it changed much. It could be that my needle is just slightly bent and I cant tell, I do have a new one coming. The trigger doesn't feel like its binding at all just inconsistent with the pull on it and when paint actually starts spraying.

I have watched a lot of videos on youtube and really paid attention to their trigger pulls and how little they have to move the trigger and most of the time I have to pull my trigger at least halfway, until I don't and then I end up with way more paint than I want. Of course it could all be my inexperience and lack of trigger control, which is probably more likely than anything.
 
This sounds to me like your paint reduction does not match your air pressure. The Neo is pretty particular in this department.
 
This sounds to me like your paint reduction does not match your air pressure. The Neo is pretty particular in this department.

its entirely possible. I have messed around alot with it trying to dial it in but it doesn't seem to make much of a difference. Again it could very well be my inexperience. Like I said some days are great and the brush works awesome other days I do nothing but fight it like crazy, which as I type that out does make it seem like its more of a paint reduction issue than anything. That would make perfect sense if I was trying to paint 1:1 but it doesn't it even when I over reduce up to 70/30. I may have to do some more playing around alittle more scientifically once I get my new needle.
 
hehehehe, I have been using them for almost 30 year, and I go through exactly the same thing. Some days everything works perfect, some days it is a constant struggle. I have enough brushes, that if I have trouble, I can grab another which usually rules out the brush being the issue real quick, if the same issue pops up.

Did you say what paint you are using? If so I missed it...
 
just throwing this out there - you may want to try something like Golden High Flow, or maybe even Com-art paint, just to get some time under your belt. The problem you are describing can be Createx any day of the week, and out of the blue. It is a good product, but has a learning curve that seems to change frequently ;). I have a serious love/hate relationship with the stuff. I use it when I get serious about a project, but tend to use something much more friendly, like E'tac PS or EFX for just playing, learning, or practicing.
 
I do have a little high flows laying around that I can play around with. The stuff is pretty thin, is that a paint that you have to reduce more typically?
 
I do have a little high flows laying around that I can play around with. The stuff is pretty thin, is that a paint that you have to reduce more typically?
With high flow, I may add a drop or two of water, if need be. The brush will let you know if you need to or not.
 
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