Testors Model Master GP100

DaveG

Airbush Analyst
I know these types of brushes get a bum wrap. Truth be told, I did a ton of really nice work with the Aztek brushes when they first came out. I was doing commercial illustration and design, and did literally 100's of layouts using them. They are different, they are quirky, but when you get to understand them, they can do what they are supposed to do.

I picked up the GP100 because of the forward trigger lever, and pencil like grip. It can be used as either a fixed action, or a double action. Pressing down with the forefinger starts air, additional downward pressure will move the needle back, starting paint. It is in no way in the same league as the rOtring, and Conopois brushes, but the method of operation is certainly similar.

This one was cracked at the air fitting when I received it, and as soon as hooked up to air, it would simply blow the fitting out of the body. I made an aluminum collar to squeeze everything back together so I could at least fool around with it. I also had to alter my normal MAC valve QC set up, as adding it directly to the back of the brush has the set up terribly unbalanced with the front of the brush constantly being pulled skyward by the weight at the back.

I just purchased a second one for under $20 (new in case) and will be fooling around with them some more in the coming days.

DSC_8058.jpg
 
Conopois brushes? :lipssealed:

omg, I shouldn't use google to check them. Now it's to late. :whistling:

I was wondering, if hose is attached on a back of the brush, could you counter the weight problem with hose attached in the air. I have my hoses coming down from the ceiling so they are not in the way and also preventing my brush hit the floor if I drop it.
 
Conopois - hand made in England. The design was sold to rOtring in Germany in the mid 1980's.

conopois qc1.jpg conopois twins1.jpg

Your idea of hanging the hose from high is a good one for working with the Model Master type brush. They supply a very thin hose, which is not much an issue to use. I tend to make fittings for all of my brushes so that I can use one single hose for everything, using quick connects. My hose end also incorporates a MAC valve, so on the end of something like the Model Master, it becomes a bit long and heavy - I made a QC fitting for the end of the Model Master hose, that plugs into my normal hose, so no big deal in use.
 
I don't know why, but those kinda brushes looks more hand friendly then the ones which are sold every where this days. I didn't try nothing similar so I could be wrong :laugh: But there must be a reason they don't make them anymore.
 
I know these types of brushes get a bum wrap. Truth be told, I did a ton of really nice work with the Aztek brushes when they first came out. I was doing commercial illustration and design, and did literally 100's of layouts using them. They are different, they are quirky, but when you get to understand them, they can do what they are supposed to do.

I picked up the GP100 because of the forward trigger lever, and pencil like grip. It can be used as either a fixed action, or a double action. Pressing down with the forefinger starts air, additional downward pressure will move the needle back, starting paint. It is in no way in the same league as the rOtring, and Conopois brushes, but the method of operation is certainly similar.

This one was cracked at the air fitting when I received it, and as soon as hooked up to air, it would simply blow the fitting out of the body. I made an aluminum collar to squeeze everything back together so I could at least fool around with it. I also had to alter my normal MAC valve QC set up, as adding it directly to the back of the brush has the set up terribly unbalanced with the front of the brush constantly being pulled skyward by the weight at the back.

I just purchased a second one for under $20 (new in case) and will be fooling around with them some more in the coming days.

View attachment 62692

Why do you say Azteks got a bad rap? I never owned one, though I’ve used them and never found them to have any undesirable characteristics. Maybe it’s the fact that they were primarily constructed from polymer material, like the way people used to hate on Glock pistols?
 
I don't know why, but those kinda brushes looks more hand friendly then the ones which are sold every where this days. I didn't try nothing similar so I could be wrong :laugh: But there must be a reason they don't make them anymore.

There have been quite a few designs, on several continents that use one variation of a single lever, or another. The oldest I have been able to acquire is a design that originated in the early part of the 1900's - a Wold Model U. This one used a lever in a lever. The user presses down on the button at the front of the inner lever, and it starts air flow. When the button comes into contact with the second lever, it begins needle movement/paint flow. I have read descriptions of this brush that called it nearly impossible to control, but that has not been my experience. It does require a very delicate touch to master, but the action performs very well. There is a screw adjuster at the back of the lever assembly that allows one to set the amount of button movement before needle movement. More movement before needle movement also limits the needle travel, so will act as a needle stop or pre-set. It can be very precise if used deliberately.

Wold_Type-U_2.jpg Wold_Type-U_1.jpg
 
There have been quite a few designs, on several continents that use one variation of a single lever, or another. The oldest I have been able to acquire is a design that originated in the early part of the 1900's - a Wold Model U. This one used a lever in a lever. The user presses down on the button at the front of the inner lever, and it starts air flow. When the button comes into contact with the second lever, it begins needle movement/paint flow. I have read descriptions of this brush that called it nearly impossible to control, but that has not been my experience. It does require a very delicate touch to master, but the action performs very well. There is a screw adjuster at the back of the lever assembly that allows one to set the amount of button movement before needle movement. More movement before needle movement also limits the needle travel, so will act as a needle stop or pre-set. It can be very precise if used deliberately.

View attachment 62697 View attachment 62698
I know you have crazy collection, but you got me with ''pencil like'' brushes :laugh:

I should snoop around on your facebook, but I am worried you guys will make me an addict with all the goodies. Trying to not become one, cause it can be expensive. :whistling:

Serious question though. What to do if some airbrush part is damaged and airbrush is not more in production. Do you make your own or?
 
I know you have crazy collection, but you got me with ''pencil like'' brushes :laugh:

I should snoop around on your facebook, but I am worried you guys will make me an addict with all the goodies. Trying to not become one, cause it can be expensive. :whistling:

Serious question though. What to do if some airbrush part is damaged and airbrush is not more in production. Do you make your own or?

Sometimes you get lucky, and find parts in the oddest of places. I have purchased a lot of inexpensive, mid-century American made brushes, that come with pieces and parts from other brushes as extras - mostly the seller had no idea what they were.

In other cases, yes, I have had to make parts to repair some brushes. I have the machines, and a fair knowledge of how to use them, so I am lucky that way.

In all honesty, 98% of the brushes I have purchased have come around with a good cleaning, and some basic maintenance.
 
Keep looking Husky you wont get addicted... Honest !
Dave is lucky enough to have a lathe and some impressive skills to make parts. I only have hand tools and the will to make it work but I get by. I would certainly have a go at more complicated stuff if I had a lathe. I have made tools and parts to get old airbrushes working and it gives you a sense of achievement when you do it. Made a thread converter for the air valve in my Grafo a few weeks back and it works great. Still looking for parts for my Vintage DeVilbiss though.
I have the ability to cut threads for some modern nozzles now if needed so thats one hurdle I can cross.

Lee
 
Keep looking Husky you wont get addicted... Honest !
sureeeeeeeeeeee :laugh:

I don't even wonna go that route, I need to learn skills before buying all stuff. But those ''pencil'' ones are so impressive I can't help my self. I am wondering about feeling which you have in your hand when airbrushing with airbrush like that. It seems so more natural then the ones are used more or less today. I wonder if it's a game changer about how you feel while airbrushing.
 
sureeeeeeeeeeee :laugh:

I don't even wonna go that route, I need to learn skills before buying all stuff. But those ''pencil'' ones are so impressive I can't help my self. I am wondering about feeling which you have in your hand when airbrushing with airbrush like that. It seems so more natural then the ones are used more or less today. I wonder if it's a game changer about how you feel while airbrushing.

It is a very different feeling. It takes a much lighter, more delicate touch. There is also a difference in the angle in which you hold your wrist, etc...
 
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