Trans base for protecting whites for erasing on glass?

huskystafford

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I was thinking. If I make white on glass as a white layer(think about it like white paper) and then hit it with createx classic trans base and I heat set it with a fan, would this work for erasing if I spray rest of paint over transparent. I was thinking of using wicked.

Does anybody know or have some similar solution for glass?
 
Yes it should work as you are erasing on the clear and not the white.

Lee
Just a thought. Would transparent base stay undamaged after erasing if I heat set it, or I would need to apply it once more so I get back that part which I damaged with erasing?
 
Depends how aggressive you are with erasing. If you only go through the paint you put on top of the trans base then you wont damage it. It would probably be better if you heat set it. I don't know how hard it sets so cant give you an exact answer.
I've only ever experienced automotive clear on paper which works really well. That you can erase and scratch on as it cures so tough.
Time for an experiment. Spray the white, clear it and heat set, then paint on top and erase to see the effects. Its on glass so at worse case scrape it off with a razor blade and try again.

Lee
 
Why even paint the glass white ? Just stick a sheet of white paper under the glass.
You can still practise your erasing techniques and the scrape the glass clean when youre ready to move on and try something different
 
Why even paint the glass white ? Just stick a sheet of white paper under the glass.
You can still practise your erasing techniques and the scrape the glass clean when youre ready to move on and try something different
doesn't look the same Jackie. I tried that. Also glass shines cause of the light which I have at the top of my easel.
 
White behind the glass, light spray of a matte on the glass to combat the reflection
matte what? Matte clear? I don't have it... Matte clear could be an option with my next airbrush stuff purchase if you were talking about matte clear.

If that would work for long time it would be great. Cause I was reading about paper on forum and is to much hustle and money. At least for stuff which I am making for myself. You could always take a photo of finished picture if you need memory of it. No need to have it on paper for me.
 
Test spray a bit of trans base on the glass, it may be matte enough. Once you start laying paint down it will reduce the glare. Can you reposition your light or easel to minimise the glare without causing your own shadow ?
 
Test spray a bit of trans base on the glass, it may be matte enough. Once you start laying paint down it will reduce the glare. Can you reposition your light or easel to minimise the glare without causing your own shadow ?
I can reposition my big easel. But I would rather leave position of easel and lights alone. I drove my hoses for airbrush to the sealing and then down to me from sealing so if I drop airbrush it doesn't hit the floor. Lights are fixed in hooks in the wall on chains. So moving stuff around is kinda pain.

I know glare is gone as soon you put paint on glass. That's why I was thinking of white layer and transparent base on top. I hope I will have some time today to test this. I also have wicked trans base, which I was planning to use just for paint mixing, cause regular createx trans is much cheaper and I have lots of it.
 
I never had much luck with erasing Wicked, it drys so fast and hard. It can be done for sure, but it takes a lot more work than the Illustration line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I never had much luck with erasing Wicked, it drys so fast and hard. It can be done for sure, but it takes a lot more work than the Illustration line.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I used wicked on automotive pieces it erased and scratched nice. But when I used it on terra slate (synthetic paper) it was almost impossible to erase or scratch...i switched to my com art paint on that paper...havent tried any other airbrush paints yet though
 
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