I learned a lesson today...

Ryck

Needle-chuck Ninja
Actually, I learned a lesson over today. That being, "you get what you pay for". I had bought a cheap dual action airbrush kit on ebay and I got to test it (sort of) today using water only. It didn't perform well as it was slightly pulsing as I sprayed.

Knowing from reading some troubleshooting text that I had an air leak somewhere so I tried to tighten everything down which included the nozzle which I was attempting to hand tighten and it broke off. I was amazed at how tiny the threads were and how easy it broke which I immediately determined this airbrush is absolute trash. :(

So I am shopping once again. I am retired and on a budget so I can't spend a lot. I have been looking at the "Master Airbrush" line and hoping to spend around $50 which I know isn't much but I have to keep the price down and since I am only starting with this new hobby, it's kind of a "try it before you buy it" situation for me.

I am open to suggestions at this point so I would like some suggestions on what to shop for. Thanks in advance for any help on this.
 
I tried to tighten everything down which included the nozzle which I was attempting to hand tighten and it broke off.
First of all, nozzles are delicate on most airbrushes, even the expensive ones. They are easy to snap. It's just a fact. Better quality brushes may thread and seal better, but you still have to be careful with them.

As for budget recommendations, the Neo has done good by me. Normal retail is $65, but you might find one cheaper. It's still not high quality, but it's better than Master.
 
The pulsing could also happen if you are using a diaphragm compressor (no tank) some of the ‘compressors ‘ in the so called ‘kits’ are nothing more thank fish tank pumps, they’ll never get the psi high enough to do the job.
Do you have a pic or a link to what you bought ?
 
First of all, nozzles are delicate on most airbrushes, even the expensive ones. They are easy to snap. It's just a fact. Better quality brushes may thread and seal better, but you still have to be careful with them.

As for budget recommendations, the Neo has done good by me. Normal retail is $65, but you might find one cheaper. It's still not high quality, but it's better than Master.

Thanks for the information. I was just looking at the higher priced MA models and was surprised to see that they all use the same fluid nozzles as the one I bought on ebay. Even the Neo has the same nozzle so I have learned that most nozzles are the same.

I now would be scared to use the small wrench that came with any airbrush. The airbrush in the set I bought looks like the cheapest MA model G22. I found the Iwata Neo airbrush on Amazon for $63.00 which I think is a good deal. Thanks for your recommendation on that one.
 
Be forewarned, the Neo is going to come with the same little wrench. Not saying it's a bad brush, but most of them use the same design, and it includes that pesky little nozzle. You just have to get to know it and finesse it a little. That's one of the reasons I bought a Harder & Steenbeck. The nozzle design is better, IMO, but also costs more.
 
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You're all wrong, peak x3. $59. Good tip, not that lil screw on tip. Can graduate it up from .5 to .23. (.23 is a screw on tip tho)

I did a search for the PEAK X-3.1 airbrush. Seems that there is only one seller/distributor for that brand and they didn't show any pictures of the nozzle or list any parts for it that I could find. I think I would like to stick to a gravity fed airbrush though. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I think I have enough information and brands and models to look at for now. I have actually learned a lot about airbrushes tonight from you all and I really appreciate your time and suggestions. If anyone has any others to suggest, I am open to more suggestions but I am going to go do some reading on the ones suggested and watch a few videos on them. Thanks again.
 
We all have our reasons and opinions as to what brand is the best but I would like to say that no one is wrong when choosing an airbrush. Its all down to personal choice and budget. That's a fact.

I've had all brands of airbrushes over the last 35 years with different experiences, some worked great and I still have them, some sucked and I threw them in the bin or gave them away. What I want is to minimize the possibility of failure and frustration. I want something that I can pick up and know will work straight off the bat and one I don't have to mess about with.

Just a quick tip with nozzles from my experience 0ver the years. If you don't have to touch them then don't, if you do remove it, only screw it back in with your fingers, then get the little nozzle wrench, put it on the nozzle then just touch it with your finger, That will be tight enough. It shouldn't actually move when you use the spanner. I have never broken one off.

Since your painting your RC planes you may benefit from something with a 0.3 or a 0.5 setup simply because they will be able to give you more paint coverage.

Good coverage 0.5
More detailed work 0.3
Higher detail 0.2
Depends what you want it for. Your choice.



Lee
 
I am open to more suggestions but I am going to go do some reading on the ones suggested and watch a few videos on them. Thanks again.

I wasn't going to suggest any specific brand but consider these.

This brand is over your budget at the moment, inexpensive compared to some but very very good quality. well worth considering in your hunt.

Plus Spraygunner is a highly recommended supplier.

https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-267-0-2mm/
https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-274-0-3mm/
https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-procon-boy-ps-266-0-5mm/

Lee
 
I like eclipse cause there is no wrench involved with that airbrush. I know this is probably out of your budget, but damn, that nozzle which you don't need to screw is yummy :laugh:

Are there any cheap good airbrushes with nozzle system like eclipse one?
 
Notes on the little wrench and nozzles in general...

I do a lot of restoration work and repair. The single largest airbrush killer out there is beginners trying to tighten a nozzle, with the little wrench, or even god forbid, pliers.

My advice for anyone new to airbrushing.... Under no circumstances, save the most dire, ever, ever, ever, ever remove, tighten or alter in any way whatsoever the nozzle. Even most clogs can be removed with a good soak and an interdental brush or sharp toothpick GENTLY applied from the back end, and even then, never ever, ever do that if you can see your needle tip coming through the nozzle. Even stubborn paint chunks of that tiny, tiny size will soften and blow out after an overnight soak in cleaning fluid or a mix of warm water and dishsoap.

It is common when starting out to think of the nozzle as needing independent cleaning, or being a source of air leakage, but this is simply not true. Nozzles pretty much stay reasonably clean in regular use and with proper back flushing or spraying cleaner through the brush. The ONLY time you EVER remove a nozzle is when something very, very solid gets stuck in there, or when you need to replace it because of physical damage, and in general, that should probably only be done by someone with experience who knows that you never tighten them on with anything more than single finger pressure. Once a nozzle is installed on the fluid head, that is it. Do not remove.

When installing a new nozzle, use the little wrench or a custom tool for it. Never, ever, ever use pliers or anything else. Nozzles are a softer metal that won't fuse with the brass body over time like aluminum or hardened steel can (chemical reaction that can happen over years). The slight give to them means that needles can make a good seal, preventing paint leakage. They are absolutely not meant to take any stress whatsoever. So when you use the little wrench to put on a brand new nozzle, use your little finger only, to turn the wrench and immediately stop the very instant you feel a bit of resistance. Never, ever, ever, ever, ever, "tighten".

If you have reason to believe that the nozzle is leaking or air is being forced back up the paint channel through a leak (bubbles in the cup usually), use a bit of chapstick or beeswax to seal them. Do not tighten.

I know I keep saying that "do not tighten" over and over again like a broken record player, but it is because it is responsible for more than 95% of all "broken" airbrushes I get in the shop. It is incredibly common to have them come in when some well intentioned new user has unnecessarily disassembled the nozzle for cleaning, then reinstalled it, and tried to make it air tight, and then ended up breaking the nozzle off, leaving a ring of threads in the body. A real mess to sort out.

Airbrush nozzles are delicate precision machined parts. Not robust mechanical parts. They need to be treated like delicate jewelry. It is best to never, ever take them off, as it will vastly extend the life of your airbrush.

Also, note, that they have nothing to do with air coming out of the gun. They control the amount of paint that mixes into the airflow. Usually if paint isn't flowing, it is because the paint mix is too thick for the size of the nozzle or pressure. So when testing your spray, start with water. See if it comes out in a nice cone. Trouble or damage with the nozzle will usually manifest as bubbles in the cup (air is being allowed back up into the paint channel due to a crack or some other issue with where the nozzle meets the needle). Chugging or erratic spray is nearly always some kind of air leak, and remember.... the nozzle really has nothing to do with the air flow.

So, unless the nozzle has been mashed, dropped on it's tip or something else, you should avoid taking that nozzle off like it was the plague. Once it is on, it stays on. Forever. Or at least until it gets damaged and it's time for a new one.

I learned all of this the hard (and expensive) way over the years. I pass it on to save new airbrush folk a lot of pain, frustration and an awful lot of money.

Never remove or tighten. If you have to install a new one, little finger only, and DO NOT TIGHTEN, just turn until the first bit of resistance.

Good luck!
 
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