Superlube

SiRoxx

Party Boy UK Style
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Hey Guys, me again [emoji56]. I gave my airbrush a quick lube with the Superlube that came in the box. I only used tiny amounts and I don't have a problem. But I wondered if it's the best thing to use or would small amounts of a regular thin Oil be better?


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"SuperLube" as in the blue stuff that comes in a tube with Iwata airbrushes? It is actually not a very good lube to use at all - it tends to thicken and gum up over time. Most of the time in the air valve. I believe Iwata has just changed the formulation of the stuff, and it is now clear -although I have not tried the new stuff, yet.

It is my belief that airbruhses generally don't really require lubrication. They just need to be kept clean to function as designed. With that being said, I have actually tried just about all available lubes ;), at one time or another. There are some airbrushes that use either a pin or post running through an o-ring as part of the trigger mech. This sort of construction can benefit (in terms of feel) from a small amount of lubrication - for me, the one I prefer above all others is Airbrush Balm from Foxy Studios. It is not an oil, but a thick bodied, translucent grease type substance. It reminds me of food grade silicone grease, but I have no idea what it really is - A very small amount burnished onto the surface you intend to lube does a really fine job...
 
Anymore after I give the airbrush a good cleaning I use no lube at all. None .
I have found and been told by many of pros that any lube can and at some point will get into your paint causing issues so I do not use any.
 
"SuperLube" as in the blue stuff that comes in a tube with Iwata airbrushes? It is actually not a very good lube to use at all - it tends to thicken and gum up over time. Most of the time in the air valve. I believe Iwata has just changed the formulation of the stuff, and it is now clear -although I have not tried the new stuff, yet.

It is my belief that airbruhses generally don't really require lubrication. They just need to be kept clean to function as designed. With that being said, I have actually tried just about all available lubes ;), at one time or another. There are some airbrushes that use either a pin or post running through an o-ring as part of the trigger mech. This sort of construction can benefit (in terms of feel) from a small amount of lubrication - for me, the one I prefer above all others is Airbrush Balm from Foxy Studios. It is not an oil, but a thick bodied, translucent grease type substance. It reminds me of food grade silicone grease, but I have no idea what it really is - A very small amount burnished onto the surface you intend to lube does a really fine job...
Yes, it was Iwata Superlube. I had read that it can gum up. Fortunately I only used it on the external threads. As the gun was new, I saw there was a small amount of grease type stuff on the trigger pin, so led that alone. Thanks for the help.



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Anymore after I give the airbrush a good cleaning I use no lube at all. None .
I have found and been told by many of pros that any lube can and at some point will get into your paint causing issues so I do not use any.
That makes sense Mr Micron, I like to think I give her a thorough clean after each use, sounds like that should do the trick then. Thanks for the help.


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Oddly enough I just watched a guy take a brand new airbrush out of the box and bathe it in Superlube... I could only cringe and wonder how long before his brand new airbrush became a solid gooey mess!
 
Oddly enough I just watched a guy take a brand new airbrush out of the box and bathe it in Superlube... I could only cringe and wonder how long before his brand new airbrush became a solid gooey mess!
Oh Jeez! Even a noob like me did enough research to know I only needed tiny amounts.


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Is it worth occasionally polishing the needle? Or another case of it not being required?
I just want to make sure I'm keeping her in top condition. I like to look after my stuff, in case you hadn't realised haha [emoji41]

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We had an old adage in model railroading- if you can tell its been lubricated, you've used too much. An airbrush certainly is not going to see enough force to require much in the way of lubricant. Lubrication actually can increase friction over cold metal.

As far as the needle... I'd only polish it if it needs it. You can screw them up quite easily.
 
Superlube is nice to apply as a very light coat on the needle when you put your airbrush away for a prolonged time or after using ureathanes. I'd avoid using it on moving parts. It will for a very short time make it go a tiny bit smoother but when it starts to dryout (which is very soon) it will become sticky and result in the opposite effect for what it was applied (which means cleaning reaplying etc... in short it's not worth the hassle:p).
 
In lieu of anything else superlube is OK... but only OK.

Go to Foxy (link on the front page) and get some K33 needle balm... great stuff. Enter the following code FOXY4ORANGE to receive a discount as well.
 
In lieu of anything else superlube is OK... but only OK.

Go to Foxy (link on the front page) and get some K33 needle balm... great stuff. Enter the following code FOXY4ORANGE to receive a discount as well.
Thanks Buddy. I've been looking at that site since someone else mention the Balm. Looks like good stuff.


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Superlube will gum up over time. They now only recommend a little on the end of the needle when packed away for more than a couple of days. On the trigger O ring it is best to only put a tiny amount of petroleum jelly on the top edge where the trigger enters it, but only if the trigger begins to stick. Don't use the lube on threads. Use beeswax for you threads. Just be sure not to get any inside the paint chamber or nozzle.


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It is my belief that airbruhses generally don't really require lubrication. They just need to be kept clean to function as designed. With that being said, I have actually tried just about all available lubes ;), at one time or another. There are some airbrushes that use either a pin or post running through an o-ring as part of the trigger mech. This sort of construction can benefit (in terms of feel) from a small amount of lubrication

Dave, what would you say about lithium grease? I have not tried grease from Foxy yet and find lithium one working best among what I tried.
The thing I like about this grease is it stays in the place it's been applied, I mean always stays in place, no matter if it's plated or mirror polished surface. Can't say this about many other type of lubricants, especially oils.
Air valve pin lubrication is a must for me, especially in the case of using soft springs. Lithium grease works well here. At least there are no issues after one year.

Superlube is nice to apply as a very light coat on the needle when you put your airbrush away for a prolonged time or after using ureathanes.

How is it connected with the urethanes? What is the trick? I've never done that and everything works great. The needles are polished and all the ABs are cleaned well after the session. I'm curious as the ABs I have for now never seen anything but urethanes.
BTW once applied,super lube and having read the info on the forum concerning issues with the super lube, I've immediately removed that grease from the ABs and not going to use that again:) (Blue type).
 
Iwata just came out with a new lube. Saw it on Instagram. They are calling it "Iwata Lube".. very creative guys.
 
How is it connected with the urethanes? What is the trick? I've never done that and everything works great.

With an Iwata cm-sb and cm-c when using urethanes and just flushing them with thinner after use, the needle gets stuck. Applying a bit of lube prevents that. Giving them a thorough cleaning also prevents it (no thinner/urethane residue left) but I can'tbe bothered doing that when they'll be in use again next morning :p
 
With an Iwata cm-sb and cm-c when using urethanes and just flushing them with thinner after use, the needle gets stuck. Applying a bit of lube prevents that. Giving them a thorough cleaning also prevents it (no thinner/urethane residue left) but I can'tbe bothered doing that when they'll be in use again next morning :p

I'm crazy about cleaning, no flushing for me!:) Only cleaning with interdental brushes using the thinners.
When AB is going to be used next morning without colour change - it would seat on the holder with paint in and lid on. If without the paint - then with the reducer poured in. There was no problem with urethanes, just imagine doing this with waterbased paints:eek:
 
I'm crazy about cleaning, no flushing for me!:) Only cleaning with interdental brushes using the thinners.
When AB is going to be used next morning without colour change - it would seat on the holder with paint in and lid on. If without the paint - then with the reducer poured in. There was no problem with urethanes, just imagine doing this with waterbased paints:eek:
I used to fully clean like that every day also but I was warned by Coast airbrush that taking apart the head and nozzle everyday will wear out the body threads and cause the brush to leak. The body is brass and the nozzle is platinum and with removing the nozzle over time it will soften the brass. The rest of the body and head may be fine because they are both brass.


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Used to lube things.. never again.
I just clean my brush as needed.
And now I keep a little liquid in the cup as long as I'm coming back to it.

It's really the main reason I use one airbrush... Because I only have to mantain one that way
 
Dave, what would you say about lithium grease? I have not tried grease from Foxy yet and find lithium one working best among what I tried.
The thing I like about this grease is it stays in the place it's been applied, I mean always stays in place, no matter if it's plated or mirror polished surface. Can't say this about many other type of lubricants, especially oils.
Air valve pin lubrication is a must for me, especially in the case of using soft springs. Lithium grease works well here. At least there are no issues after one year.

Well, in applications where you have an o-ring, lithium grease is usually an excellent choice. I can not really see where this application would be any different - it would just be a bit over kill (in my opinion) to recommend it to the vast majority of users... I have some, and would probably have no reservation about using it, but don't find the need.
 
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