Choosing an eclipse?

Nokie

Nokie

Gravity Guru
ive done some searching and reading like crazy. Sorry if this has been covered a dozen times but thought I’d get some input.
Within a week or two I’d like to pick up an eclipse but am unsure what to get.
I’ve got it narrowed down to either a B or C.
I have my talon but can’t get consistent fine detail out of it. I’d like to use my talon as my go to and get an eclipse for more of the finer details.
Until I get used to it and can run it for everything.
I guess the part that throws me off is the different hp-B,C,C+,CP.
my head just starts spinning trying to figure them all out.
I had even gotten to the point I was looking at a Mr hobby ps-770 or a sotar.
But I’ve read they’re all hit and miss, so it seems the Iwatas are consistent.
So if I was looking for an eclipse for finer work what’s a good option?
Thanks for any input
 
Both models will give identical spray pattern, thus the same level of detail. C has bigger cup. This series of airbrushes isn't for the detail work. If you buy B model, you will regret that you haven't bought airbrush with bigger cup as Eclipse is for faster coverage than other series of ABs, where you need bigger volume of the paint.

For what I call detail work, I'd suggest to look at this:
http://www.airbrush.com/RichpenUSA-Apollo-113C-Airbrush-w-Pre-Set-Handle/productinfo/100345/
This one is manufactured at the same factory as the models you choose between. For equal price you will have great airbrush that you can use for the detail work, not like micron, but it's not micron:) Generally it's like HP-C, but with another wording on the body.
 
Nokie said:
ive done some searching and reading like crazy. Sorry if this has been covered a dozen times but thought I’d get some input.
Within a week or two I’d like to pick up an eclipse but am unsure what to get.
I’ve got it narrowed down to either a B or C.
I have my talon but can’t get consistent fine detail out of it. I’d like to use my talon as my go to and get an eclipse for more of the finer details.
Until I get used to it and can run it for everything.
I guess the part that throws me off is the different hp-B,C,C+,CP.
my head just starts spinning trying to figure them all out.
I had even gotten to the point I was looking at a Mr hobby ps-770 or a sotar.
But I’ve read they’re all hit and miss, so it seems the Iwatas are consistent.
So if I was looking for an eclipse for finer work what’s a good option?
Thanks for any input
Click to expand...
The Mr Hobby brushes have a great reputation with ushered on this forum. As far as problems go the PS-770 has a .18 nozzle I believe and requires pretty accurate reduction to perform at its best. I’d imagine most problems reported are more user error than the brush itself.
But the Eclipse range from Iwata is also a fantastic brush. I have the CS and have always been really pleased with it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Iwata is easy.

A = no cup or just cavity in body
B = small top cup
C = bigger top cup
BC = bottom feed (Bottom Cup)
SB = side feed (Side Bucket)

From Eclipse upward they all say HP on them. The extra letter after the above model numbers says more.
R - Revolution
CS - Eclipse
nothing - The original High Performance (HP)
H - High Line
CM - Custom Micron

With the HP and Micron you get two big cup variants. C and C+ or C Plus or CP. C is the old school round bottom bowl and C+ etc has the tapered bowl. On the Micron the C+ etc also means it has the mac valve. All guns in the Hi-line range has the mac valve.

The Eclipse can do detail but what do you consider detail? On the side of a car door it is perfect. On a match box you will struggle. And rather go for the C over the B.
 
@J000seph
Thanks for that video. That was a great breakdown of the different models.

@SiRoxx
You’re not helping :p I was really set on a ps-770 and couldn’t get one from spraygunner before they sold out, so I figured it wasn’t meant to be so I had started looking at Iwatas again.

@AndreZA
Thank you for that list. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I was just having a hard time because I would go and look at one and by the time I clicked to read about 2 or 3 more I couldn’t remember what the first one had said.
I should of been more specific on my detail work.
Most of it would be on the bigger side. The thing I struggle with the most is any fine line detail in any kind of hair and especially in eyes. If I try and add any kind of layer in an eye. My talon fights me the whole time no matter what paint and reduction I try.
 
Last edited:
Nokie said:
@J000seph
Thanks for that video. That was a great breakdown of the different models.

@SiRoxx
You’re not helping :p I was really set on a ps-770 and couldn’t get one from spraygunner before they sold out, so I figured it wasn’t meant to be so I had started looking at Iwatas again.

@AndreZA
Thank you for that list. That’s exactly what I was looking for. I was just having a hard time because I would go and look at one and by the time I clicked to read about 2 or 3 more I couldn’t remember what the first one had said.
I should of been more specific on my detail work.
Most of it would be on the bigger side. The thing I struggle with the most is any fine line detail in any kind of hair and especially in eyes. If I try and add any kind of layer in an eye. My talon fights me the whole time no matter what paint and reduction I try.
Click to expand...
Haha, sorry Bud Lol. Go with your gut man, it’s a pretty safe bet it won’t be the only time you buy an airbrush, so whichever one you don’t get now is top of the list next time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd go for the C cup, cant go wrong with a C. It can do everything so it will always be something you will use.

Lee
 
I have a B and love it. I sold my C not to long ago because it just sat in my drawer. My best suggestion would be to buy a HP-CS and a HP-B. I can spray hair lines with the B at 15 to 25 psi with ease. If you own a Talon then use that for large area and the B for tight detail. If you plan automotive than go up to the C.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
http://fredaw61.wixsite.com/the-artist
https://www.youtube.com/user/fredaw61
 
I would go for the cs. You can use just a couple of drops of paint, or fill that cup up - part of what makes this wonderful brush so versatile. And although, no, it is not a detail brush, it really can pull the finest lines once you get your air/paint/reducer dialled in and get to know it. Is it as fine or as easy to get detail as using a micron? No, not as easy, and that's where the getting to know it comes in, but once it clicks into place getting that detail becomes second nature. And the detail really is almost as close, with the added bonus of larger coverage.

Add to that I can't recall anyone who ever got one and was sorry they did, I think you'll be happy.
 
On paper the Eclipses aren't really more detail-oriented than the Talon. They're kind of equivalent models in terms of the uses they're designed for.

That said, having owned both, the Eclipse is much better designed and made than the Talon. If you get one, you will probably find it replacing the Talon for most of your regular work rather than supplementing it. And although it's not a dedicated detail brush, it can do fine detail well, so it will get you what you want there as well.

SBS will give you the greatest versatility in one brush. It's able to fully be both a gravity or siphon feed depending on what kind of cup you use. The CS is slightly simpler to maintain, but not by enough to matter unless you're a 100% total beginner (and even then, the difference is minor). IMO the only downsides to the SBS over the CS is the SBS is more expensive, and some people don't care for side feed ergonomics on personal opinion level.
 
Nessus said:
...... some people don't care for side feed ergonomics on personal opinion level.
Click to expand...

Yup, that's me. I don't like the balance of a sbs, and also when I was painting bike frames, and awkward shaped parts feel the cup would be in the way. So whatever suits what you need it for best. You can't go wrong either way.
 
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