Hey guys! It's been a while since I've been on here. I need some help! I was using the matte clear from spray Maxx. But now I've got while spots on some spots that I don't understand why they showed up. I did everything like I thought it should have been done. Is there anyway to take out the milkiness? I've used heat to help but it doesn't seem to be doing anything for it. Should I just let it sit, and try to hit it with heat again once it's cured or is there something else I can do?
Help with spraymax
- Thread starter Draxden
- Start date
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Pics would help but sounds like maybe you sprayed over wicked or something that wasnt really dry....or maybe sprayed in the evening and got some moisture?
Good luck, 95% of the time this will just have to be a sand down and re-do
Good luck, 95% of the time this will just have to be a sand down and re-do
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Only other thing i could think is solvent pop that didnt pop but im sure pics will tell more.
MarcosD
Detail Decepticon!
Dont know if this is the case, but the only time I had an issue with mate varnish was because it was and old one, and it has little dry crystals inside. The end result looked like you describe it above, and my artist mate varnish has a shelf life shorter than glossy ones. HTH
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Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
What was your primer? Looks like edge mapping to me. Which seems to be common on game controllers....Maybe and incompatibility with something in the plastics or something...idk...but ive seen it several times on here. Has me thinking a sealer is almost a requirement for them....idk
It happens when your base is thin in certain areas and the clears solvents soak through to a sensitive primer or buried contamination or other sensitive undercoat.
Regardless, the good news is you can sand it some , spray a little base in the affected area to cover the white and re-clear. Try to touch clear and blend first if you want, but a light reclear of the whole thing may be the end result.
It happens when your base is thin in certain areas and the clears solvents soak through to a sensitive primer or buried contamination or other sensitive undercoat.
Regardless, the good news is you can sand it some , spray a little base in the affected area to cover the white and re-clear. Try to touch clear and blend first if you want, but a light reclear of the whole thing may be the end result.
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Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Not certain...but i think using a sealer would do the trick. Either rust o primer sealer or like autoborne sealer.
Out of curiosity, did you use an adhesion promoter or anything? they can cause edge mapping too
What was your primer if any?
btw, internationally they just call clear "varnish" so im sure marcos was referring to 2k matte
Out of curiosity, did you use an adhesion promoter or anything? they can cause edge mapping too
What was your primer if any?
btw, internationally they just call clear "varnish" so im sure marcos was referring to 2k matte
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Or, to keep it simple, keep your coats down, make sure nothing is soaking through and have real tough superior adhesion you could always use epoxy primer. No adpro,no sealer required.
speedokote sells it cheap. Spraymax sells it in a can.
Just to be sure, you arent using spraycan for base are you?
speedokote sells it cheap. Spraymax sells it in a can.
Just to be sure, you arent using spraycan for base are you?
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Oh gotcha. Didn't know that about the vanish part. My bad!
I did not use an adhesion promotion. It's just the black primer with red and white airbrushed on. But it every did it on the red a bit too.
My primer is spray can. But that's it. But I did airbrush some matte clear in some others to try it, and I didn't get this issue at all. That's what's throwing me off. I even went with wet coats. Could it be this is spraying out too hard? the
I did not use an adhesion promotion. It's just the black primer with red and white airbrushed on. But it every did it on the red a bit too.
My primer is spray can. But that's it. But I did airbrush some matte clear in some others to try it, and I didn't get this issue at all. That's what's throwing me off. I even went with wet coats. Could it be this is spraying out too hard? the
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Walk us through it.
You sand I imagine.
Then exactly what primer?
Then exactly what paints for white and red?
You sand I imagine.
Then exactly what primer?
Then exactly what paints for white and red?
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
If its rust oleum automotive black sandable primer and its sanded after, its probably fine, not sanded after ...ehhhh idk. If its rust oleum painters touch or 2x black primer its almost certainly the problem.
Its an enamel, if you get any edge pooling it will never cure. 2k over enamel is almost always a no-no.
Id suggest hobby lobby for some black autoborne sealer.
Or SEM can primer...avoid self etching of any kind.
Its an enamel, if you get any edge pooling it will never cure. 2k over enamel is almost always a no-no.
Id suggest hobby lobby for some black autoborne sealer.
Or SEM can primer...avoid self etching of any kind.
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
rust oleum stops rust multi-purpose primer and rust oleum rusty metal primer are also going to be an issue.
Not sure about their black primer surfacer, and im sure they have a few more im missing.
Not sure about their black primer surfacer, and im sure they have a few more im missing.
Gotcha...could that also be the reason it did it to the red paint as well? Idk how that stuff works if I can go through things and interact with the bottom coats or not. Maybe I've just never had an issue with pooling before, because I've done plenty this same way, and I did others with this one that probably half of them turned out fine with not even a little bit of this issue.
Robbyrockett2
Air-Valve Autobot!
Yeah, other than really thick layers of aztec or wicked, solvents in the topcoat soak right through them.
Fully cured enamel wont have a problem but much over a very thin layer and it will take months/years instead of hours to fully cure.
Probably just had some thick spots, especially where it likes to collect near the edge.
Youve got plenty of options so you dont have to worry about it but autoborne instead of the rusto seems like your best to me, without spending $30-40
Fully cured enamel wont have a problem but much over a very thin layer and it will take months/years instead of hours to fully cure.
Probably just had some thick spots, especially where it likes to collect near the edge.
Youve got plenty of options so you dont have to worry about it but autoborne instead of the rusto seems like your best to me, without spending $30-40
twood
Air-Valve Autobot!
I have done a few xbox 360 controllers and face plates. I did not use a primer, but AutoAir sealers....with AutoAir and wicked over top. I then used the Rust-Oleum 2x gloss over that as a top coat (approx 5 coats) with great success...After a week or more curing time, they were bullet proof. Four years later, after being used by kids, they still look good...
