Can you control air pressure by trigger?,

Do you paint different parts of the model with different air pressures? You mix your paint, you get it to flow and you don't touch it again until you mess with the paint again. You don't test flow and pressure on the model, you do it on the side.

Actually I paint the same part with different airflow if I need to. Highlighting for example, using highly reduced paint, I will use high airlow for better atomization to highlight the portions I need. then when I am done, I will just use low airflow to deliver one single wet coat for a smooth finish and blending if I want to panel line and decal but don't want to use clear coat.

Also very helpful when I want to avoid overspray when painting mirror like gloss black for chrome paint. Lower airflow can deliver more narrow wet coats on the narrower side of the part.

Why wont I want to change airflow with the same paint viscosity? A lot of people do it, they just do it with the MAC valve, I prefer using the trigger to accomplish the same task.

Like I say, I am not asking others to do it. It is just something I picked up and got use to. Works very well for me.

p/s: Oh and controlling airflow via the trigger has a very neat use. Many like to mix paint in the cup by back flowing/flushing, or clean the airbrush using back flushing. If you only hold down the trigger slightly, less paint drops flying around, less bubbles and generally less messy overall.
 
I also use the trigger to control the air in certain situations. Since finding out that the H & S brushes lend themselves to be trigger controlled I experimented and although it took me hours of practice I eventually got the hang of it. I find it useful for when I mix colours on the fly. I use the Createx Illustration colours because I like their transparency, but for me I find that the viscosity of one colour can be totally different to another. So even though I set up my brushes with different colours and with different degrees of thinning complete with adjusting the air pressure accordingly, I sometimes want to alter the colour on the fly while painting. So rather than stop painting alter the colour, change the viscosity and alter the air pressure, I quickly mix the colour in the cup test for correct colour and then wind up the MAC valve and use the trigger to control the air flow. I only ever do this if I'm on a roll with the painting, otherwise I alter the colour and adjust everything in the normal way. Incidentally if Com Art sold their paints in bigger bottles I would probably switch to them as from past experience I found the viscosity of their paint was generally the same irrespective of the colour, so I wouldn't need to worry about altering the colours on the fly.
 
If I am not mistaken and my mind doesn't doing trick on me, I think our DaveG is also controlling air with the trigger. I think I read that somewhere when I was wondering about this stuff, cause my fingers were doing that by itself...

There is also possibility my brains are getting mashed potatoes cause of my age -.- I hope not, but you never know lol I should use search function of forum to try and find that post if there is that kinda post, but in my defense I am bad with searching. So I will just assume I am not mistaken and my brains are fine. And I can have a good day now :laugh:

 
for sure - I use my trigger to control air pressure all the time. Unlike others in this thread, I find other brushes quite capable of being controlled. I have been using my Iwata, and Olympos triggers this way for decades. It isn't a practice I try to cram down someone else's throat, because not everyone has, or will develop the feel for it.

This practice was one of the main reasons that i spent the time developing a new spring, and retainer for my Badger brushes :thumbsup: - Change them from an on/off affair to something I can play with.

badger trigger3.jpg
 
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for sure - I use my trigger to control air pressure all the time. Unlike others in this thread, I find other brushes quite capable of being controlled. I have been using my Iwata, and Olympos triggers this way for decades. It isn't a practice I try to cram down someone else's throat, because not everyone has, or will develop the feel for it.

Sounds like there is a need for a triple action Airbrush Dave. Not that the market would be that large. [emoji23]
 
ok, it's official. My brain is a mash potatoe. I went to start of this thread to check what people wrote in this thread and I did find that post from DaveG.

I will be quiet next time until I read the whole thread again. This caught me a little off guard....
 
for sure - I use my trigger to control air pressure all the time. Unlike others in this thread, I find other brushes quite capable of being controlled. I have been using my Iwata, and Olympos triggers this way for decades. It isn't a practice I try to cram down someone else's throat, because not everyone has, or will develop the feel for it.

This practice was one of the main reasons that i spent the time developing a new spring, and retainer for my Badger brushes :thumbsup: - Change them from an on/off affair to something I can play with.

View attachment 60923

I am planning to add the Iwata Eclipse to my collection next. I was wondering if you have tested one of those and how does its trigger compares to the GSI Creos and H&S. I for one have problems with the PS-770 because all I am manage is low airflow or max airflow - nothing much in between.

My experience with the H&S is that I can get 5 distinct airflow modes; the sound of the airbrush changes drastically so it is very easy for me to tell. Very Low, low, medium, medium high, max. The PS-770 has shorter trigger travel and it will go full blast the moment trigger is pressed down halfway hence I am unable to control it.

Does the Iwata behaves like the Creos or does it have more control than the Creos? Did you modify the Iwata like that Badger (love that tinkering of yours btw :thumbsup:), change of spring etc.
 
I am planning to add the Iwata Eclipse to my collection next. I was wondering if you have tested one of those and how does its trigger compares to the GSI Creos and H&S. I for one have problems with the PS-770 because all I am manage is low airflow or max airflow - nothing much in between.

My experience with the H&S is that I can get 5 distinct airflow modes; the sound of the airbrush changes drastically so it is very easy for me to tell. Very Low, low, medium, medium high, max. The PS-770 has shorter trigger travel and it will go full blast the moment trigger is pressed down halfway hence I am unable to control it.

Does the Iwata behaves like the Creos or does it have more control than the Creos? Did you modify the Iwata like that Badger (love that tinkering of yours btw :thumbsup:), change of spring etc.

There is an ever shrinking list of brushes I have not tried ;) The Eclipse is very similar to the Creos, as they originate in the same factory. The spring used in both brushes is about the same. A lighter spring helps in the Iwata/Creos/Richpen type air valve, and the o-ring in the top of the air valve needs to be kept in good shape. I do wind my own springs for the air valve, but there are some readily available out there...
 
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