Why you don't use your micron?

I changed all the gold bits on my Evolution to the silver ones from the AL-Plus. I don't like gold and that is also why I don't use my Infinity. If I could get a silver waist and preset button, I would convert that too. But my AL-Plus is starting to overtake my Evolution as my preferred H&S gun.

But the AL plus is not shiny... Personally I really like the gold trims on the Evolution. The rear of the infinity is not metal, don't like how it feels on the skin - and it is not shiny.

I am like...
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But the AL plus is not shiny... Personally I really like the gold trims on the Evolution. The rear of the infinity is not metal, don't like how it feels on the skin - and it is not shiny.

The gold wears off after a few years and then it is patchy where it is not rubbed off.

The Infinity's handle and the AL-Plus are anodized aluminium. Unless you polish it, it can't be shiny.
 
I have a Micron but I haven't used it for about over 3 years...I felt I just wanted one but I had damaged it within days of getting it and it cost a small fortune to fix and all it needed was a needle and head system. I damaged it once more and layed out another small fortune but then I thought why am I doing this when my other airbrushes pull the same detail and cost much less to fix so I have been using my HP CH and my HP SB side feed instead....the HP SB is my favourite.
 
My go to airbrush is my micron sb and it has been converted to suit my needs soft springs and the low trigger from DaveG my HP SB+ is the back up brush to the micron it does the job as good as the micron but I just like the feel of the micron
my other airbrushes are the eclipse SBS , the revolution and the dirt cheap fengda , I hardly ever use them but those brushes have a place in my arsenal and are great for custom work
 
head system or nozzle? Cause it's quite a difference in price.
Just an FYI I learned from @DaveG https://spraygunner.com/parts/gsi-creos-mr-airbrush-parts/ps770-custom-0-18mm.html the head from the PS 770 work awesome on the micron at a faction of the price plus it uses the Iwata wrench so in case you tighten it a bit much with your fingers it is easier to remove.For the price of the entire PS 770 head is what just the nozzle cost for the micron.
Being tight on funding right now due to just dropping 3k in a new engine for my Jeep and noticing my micron did not seem to spray right even though after close inspection I could not find anything wrong with it I bought one of the PS 770 heads after speaking with @DaveG . In my opinion it now sprays better then it did when it was new.
As far as mishaps with my micron I have had 2 the first was about 4 months after getting it I bent the needle while cleaning it due to I dropped it and it hit point first on the table then bounced off and hit the floor . The second was when my legally blind neighbor came up to watch me paint and get him a drink of shine , While I was getting the shine he managed to know the airbrush stand off it mount and needless to say I had to get a new nozzle and needle off that one.
But I usually tell anyone looking to buy a micron is it in your budget? There are many detail airbrush on the market now for a more affordable price not only in buying the complete airbrush but parts as well.
I have watch some of the old pros paint really tiny things like feathers with a .5 so is a micron or a detail brush really needed NO! but if you want super fine detail with a lot less practice time then YES... LOL But I can almost pull the same line with my eclipse now that I can with the micron. It is just a lot less work using the micron.
Now here is a link to Steve Leahy FB feed https://www.facebook.com/StevenLeahyArt/videos/465156874348814/ he is using the 105 .3 patriot from badger for painting a razor blade.. It shows what years of practice can do , Note he also will use a super fine paint brush.
 
Because I don’t like how it feels in my hands, and I don’t agree with you, because for me, more difficult more fun, if it is easy to use it is boring, Im the kind of person that enjoy doing impossible or very difficult tasks!


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Good thread and good discussion, guys! Although I can’t share points of comparison (I’ve never had the privilege to use a Micron) it gets me thinking. I guess in the end it comes actually down to which airbrush has the least hassle to operate. I would settle for the airbrush that I need to spend the least time to clean out blockages and disassemble all the time so I don’t get interrupted when actually painting.
 
I have the SB version of the micron and It stays in the box unless I need to do some real tight details otherwise I use my HP-B+ or my Richpen Mojo
It makes getting the detail a little easier plus I got it 1/2 price..

Lee
 
Because I don’t like how it feels in my hands, and I don’t agree with you, because for me, more difficult more fun, if it is easy to use it is boring, Im the kind of person that enjoy doing impossible or very difficult tasks!


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Masochist to sadist: hit me, hit me, let it be pain full, let it hurt !
Sadist to masochist: nah I won't hit you, no pain for you today, you gonna suffer!

:laugh:
 
Thank god , we don't have kindergarten place which I mentioned in 7 years itch thread -.-
 

To add my personal two farthings to the pot. I have most of my brushes as side feed including my Micron V1. Mind you my Micron SB was had for $300 and upgraded with the V2 fluid nozzle and needle via the Procon 770 parts(DaveG has confirmed they are identical) and performs quite nicely. I also own and use an Eclipse SBS from the older 2 hole handle series and while the Eclipse will lay down some color, I would not use it for enamel or laquer gloss paints. For a car body (in miniature) I would use my Paasche VL as quite a few painters in the T shirt painting industry swear by them. Not to brag but, I was able to spray the old Polly S dirt style paint through my VL back in the 1980's and the vast consensus is that Polly S is not sprayable at all.I swear this brush could probably spray concrete!
What most of the posters are trying to say in their own ways is this, no 2 airbrushes are equal for the user at all. They each have the pluses and minuses but the trick is learning what they are and capitalizing on them in your day to day painting. Of the 17 airbrushes I own, I have intentional overlap in capability, that way I can always switch guns in a pinch without any downtime. I can always come back and deal with the problem when I am done.
To Illustrate, my collection is;

Iwata Micron V1 (with V@ parts) DETAIL ONLY
Iwata Eclipse SBS DETAIL AND BROADER APPLICATIONS
OLYMPUS SP-B (modded with PS770 parts making it a Micron) DETAIL ONLY
OLYMPUS 100SB (modded with Iwata HP-SB parts to be a full on SB) DETAILS AND SOME BROAD WORK
WOLD A-1/37 (modded with the regulator head from an A-2) DETAIL ONLY BUT CAN DO SOME MID RANGE WORK
DEVILBIS AEROGRAPH 63E (modded with a DaveG needle tension spring to reduce the kick) BEAUTIFUL ALL AROUND BRUSH LIKE AN ECLIPSE BUT FOR FINER WORK STILL AND WILL MATCH ANY HP-B OR HP-SB
DEVILBIS AEROGRAPH SUPER 93 (stock) SAME AS THE SUPER 63E IN PERFORMANCE
PAASCHE VJR (set with a Fine needle and softer needle tension spring) GREAT OLD SCHOOL DETAIL BRUSH ASK ALBERTO PONO!
PAASCHE V (set with medium needle and softer needle tension spring) GREAT MID RANGE BRUSH THAT WILL DO FINE WORK WITHOUT FUSS
PAASCHE RAPTOR (modded with MOJO 3 trigger and airvalve and softer needle tension spring) NICE ALL AROUND WITH DETAIL WORK POSSIBLE AND CLOSE TO THE ECLIPSE IN PERFORMANCE FOR $50US!
PAASCHE VL (kept at the ready with the #3 medium needle set up) MY GO TO ON SPRAYING ENAMEL OR ACRYLIC GLOSS PAINTS
BINKS RAVEN 2 (fine needle but also have the medium) NICE BRUSH AND CLOSE TO THE THAYER A IN PERFORMANCE WITH A RE-IMAGINED REGULATOR HEAD
THAYER & CHANDLER ELITE A (so nice it is left stock) TERRIFIC GRAVITY BRUSH FOR DETAIL AND WEATHERING EFFECTS
SATAGRAPH 2 (really a Gabbert Triplex) NICE WORKMAN'S STYLE BRUSH FOR MID RANGE WORK AND SOME DETAILS
HOLBIEN NEOHOHOMI SIDE FEED (stock) EQUIVALENT TO AN ECLIPSE BUT BEARS NO COMMON PARTS TO ANY FUSO SEKI BRUSHES
BADGER RENEGADE SPIRIT SIDE FEED (SOTAR in a different body style) ONCE MODDED WITH A BINKS SIDE FEED CUP AND A DELRIN ADAPTOR TO TAKE SAID CUP, A USEFUL DETAIL BRUSH

LASTLY A SPARE PAASCHE V FOR JURIEN72 if he can get off his keister and contact me as it is FREE!

Not one of the above is a match for the other but do complement each other nicely. You will find airbrushes are a lot like cars or rifles. They are all machines made by imperfect humans and all exhibit their own personality and performance. You will need to find what works for you but the question must be asked, what exactly do you want/need? Be realistic in what you want from the brush. Do not be a brand whore as you will miss an awful lot if you go down that road. You will not find a brush that will do everything as that is a lie perpetrated by marketing arses who have one goal in mind, to sell you something whether you need it or not. Explore and keep an open mind and whatever you do, don't follow the pack!
Regards,
Chris the cabbie
 
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Since I got back to airbrushing from 25 some years ago I figured I'd stick with the iwata bcs .5 nozzle and just learn with it for a year or so, I think it was good for me I can pull a pretty small line now with it, it's a bit finicky on the small stuff but I started with an old Paasche so... waiting for my hp-sbs now with the .35 nozzle, be interesting to see the difference then head down to the .2 nozzle or maybe micron.
I paint a lot of different things(and paints) so the bcs(s) will always have a place, I couldn't imagine trying to get the body paints through anything smaller than a .5 nozzle.
 
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