Polishing needle-is this the right way?

huskystafford

Needle chucking Ninja
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So I open this thread that I don't thread crap in Stu Dales thread.


Decription of that video:

Couple of things about this: - yep, crud covered needle is cruddy. - this process is exactly the same for brand new needles, or needles that have a few hours on them. - I do this every major clean of my brushes. - DO NOT USE hard polishing sticks or cloths... use a simple $3 3 step nail buffer. It’s soft and wont put flat spots in your needles. - don’t press too hard you can actually bend the needle. And for those of you that may say “you’d never have to do this if you keep your needles clean”... well.. guess what.... yeah.. you do. I do this for all of my needles. It improves the flow of the brush significantly, and is really simple to do.



Soooooooooooooo, is this the right way?

I also am wondering about the tip. You polish the tip also? Cause to me, looks like that top of the tip isn't polished.
 
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I don't know, but watching that made me cringe a little. That sawing motion is for sure gonna take the round off that needle over time, and you are just one motion away from sticking that point right into the sanding surface. While that may work for some, I do mine differently - if using the same nail buff that he shows, I would turn my needle to be the same orientation as the nail file. I would place the needle on the surface trying to match the angle of the major taper, and then place a finger from my off hand on top of the needle to hold it down - and twist or spin the needle while drawing it backwards along the surface. Basically pulling the needle out from under my finger while turning. Light pressure to hold it down, not crush it. I will often use just the edge of a fingernail to maintain pressure on the needle as I spin/twist it while always drawing it backward, rather than pushing it forward. I do not try to polish the second angle at the tip, a the paint it released from it's upper edge - not the point.
 
I don't know, but watching that made me cringe a little. That sawing motion is for sure gonna take the round off that needle over time, and you are just one motion away from sticking that point right into the sanding surface. While that may work for some, I do mine differently - if using the same nail buff that he shows, I would turn my needle to be the same orientation as the nail file. I would place the needle on the surface trying to match the angle of the major taper, and then place a finger from my off hand on top of the needle to hold it down - and twist or spin the needle while drawing it backwards along the surface. Basically pulling the needle out from under my finger while turning. Light pressure to hold it down, not crush it. I will often use just the edge of a fingernail to maintain pressure on the needle as I spin/twist it while always drawing it backward, rather than pushing it forward. I do not try to polish the second angle at the tip, a the paint it released from it's upper edge - not the point.
Had me cringing too. [emoji51]
I’ve used 2000 grit wet sand for my initial polish and 4000 and 6000 polishing compounds to finish. Have always done a twisting motion on a very flat surface, keeping the needle at the proper angle. Once done, I never need to polish them again unless I damage the needle and need to repair it.
 
I don't know, but watching that made me cringe a little. That sawing motion is for sure gonna take the round off that needle over time, and you are just one motion away from sticking that point right into the sanding surface. While that may work for some, I do mine differently - if using the same nail buff that he shows, I would turn my needle to be the same orientation as the nail file. I would place the needle on the surface trying to match the angle of the major taper, and then place a finger from my off hand on top of the needle to hold it down - and twist or spin the needle while drawing it backwards along the surface. Basically pulling the needle out from under my finger while turning. Light pressure to hold it down, not crush it. I will often use just the edge of a fingernail to maintain pressure on the needle as I spin/twist it while always drawing it backward, rather than pushing it forward. I do not try to polish the second angle at the tip, a the paint it released from it's upper edge - not the point.
Thanks for the tips DaveG. I was thinking about what if he sticks that needle in to sander thingy. Do I need to polish each time? And what is taper or where is that major angle of taper located?

taper
verb


ta·per | \ ˈtā-pər

\
tapered; tapering\ ˈtā-p(ə-)riŋ

\
Definition of taper
(Entry 1 of 4)

intransitive verb

1 : to become progressively smaller toward one end
2 : to diminish gradually
 
I was thinking about buying SharpenAir polishing pad, but that would be a waste of money right if I can get nail sander/polisher?
Also there are nail polishers with glass fibers. Are those any good?

 
Had me cringing too. [emoji51]
I’ve used 2000 grit wet sand for my initial polish and 4000 and 6000 polishing compounds to finish. Have always done a twisting motion on a very flat surface, keeping the needle at the proper angle. Once done, I never need to polish them again unless I damage the needle and need to repair it.
So you basically polish only once when you decide to polish it and it's ok for long time?
 
Thanks for the tips DaveG. I was thinking about what if he sticks that needle in to sander thingy. Do I need to polish each time? And what is taper or where is that major angle of taper located?

taper
verb


ta·per | \ ˈtā-pər

\
tapered; tapering\ ˈtā-p(ə-)riŋ

\
Definition of taper
(Entry 1 of 4)

intransitive verb

1 : to become progressively smaller toward one end
2 : to diminish gradually

I will take photo's tomorrow, and post...
 
Unless it gets damaged, I don’t have to touch them. In most cases the only thing the tip contacts is the nozzle, and the nozzle is generally a softer metal then the needle.
that's great. One time and I am good to go. Gonna order some kinda nail polisher/sander online.
 
that's great. One time and I am good to go. Gonna order some kinda nail polisher/sander online.

I think the polishing side of that nail file would be the only side I would use, and not like he did either.

I have polished all of mine in the past I used Autosol polish on a cloth, placed the needle in a variable speed drill and while holding the needle between my fingers slowly rotated the needle in the cloth while dragging it backwards.

When I last replaced a couple of needles I used some 3000 and 6000 abrasive cloth that I'd been given (I was told its used to polish aircraft windows) and only turning the needle by hand, pinching it inbetween my finger and thumb as I drew it backwards I got a great result.
If the needles were really dull I'd probably use a little polish on a cloth first.
I only polish so far up needle, just enough to get past the colour cup as the back end is inside the airbrush and doesn't need to be polished. I only usually polish the needle once, They stay polished for ever, just a quick drag through the abrasive cloth again if really needed, unless some damage occurs to it and then I would do it again fully. Has not happened yet.

I also thought about using a Dremel with a polishing mop in it, placing the needle on a hard surface and running the mop over it, or placing the dremel in a vice or clamp and pulling the needle across the rotating mop.

What I can say is UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES use a Dremel or similar to rotate the needle, too many rpms.. I have experienced that.. Not good experience !!!

I also thought about the direction of the polishing and would it make a difference to how the air and paint flowed and prevent paint sticking to the needle.

To the naked eye a polished needle looks shiny and smooth but if you look at it under magnification it has lots of little scratches. Compared to a standard unpolished needle there is a massive difference but there are still some blemishes and its not a complete mirror finish.
My thinking was, would it be better that the scratches went length ways along the needle ( pulling the needle through the cloth without any turning) apposed to going around the needle (spinning it in a drill) and then thinking would using a drill and drawing it backwards give it a spiral directional polish? Would that help the air and paint flow better, like the rifling in a gun barrel?

I haven't found any difference in the way they work but I haven't done any "experiments" to prove or disprove the differences, I have a smooth delivery which ever way I polish the needle.
What about you Dave @DaveG Have you done experiments along these lines? Any evidence?

Be safe and don't get caught polishing your needle by your parents :)

Lee
 
I use https://www.amazon.com/ZFE-Polishing-Compound-Syringes-Jewelers/dp/B06XCKNCKZ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Diamond Lapping Paste Polishing Compound&qid=1574003007&sr=8-8 with a soft piece of leather and my drill set on low speed. I place a very small dap of the compound onto the center of the leather then place the end of the needle into my drill and slowly work the needle back and forth . I use a different piece of leather for each grit of compound and mark the grit on the back side of the leather. I do this depending on how the needle looks before starting starting from about the mid grit of compound to the finishing grit . Once I am finished with the polishing process I end of with a mirror finish on the needle.
Which for me reduces tip dry and allows me to pull smooth clean lines.
I only have to polish the needle in this way one time after that it will pretty much stay with the mirror finish.
 
I use https://www.amazon.com/ZFE-Polishing-Compound-Syringes-Jewelers/dp/B06XCKNCKZ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Diamond Lapping Paste Polishing Compound&qid=1574003007&sr=8-8 with a soft piece of leather and my drill set on low speed. I place a very small dap of the compound onto the center of the leather then place the end of the needle into my drill and slowly work the needle back and forth . I use a different piece of leather for each grit of compound and mark the grit on the back side of the leather. I do this depending on how the needle looks before starting starting from about the mid grit of compound to the finishing grit . Once I am finished with the polishing process I end of with a mirror finish on the needle.
Which for me reduces tip dry and allows me to pull smooth clean lines.
I only have to polish the needle in this way one time after that it will pretty much stay with the mirror finish.
Interesting way. I didn't know diamond paste exists. Now you gave me food for thoughts. I went to check on amazon uk, and there is bunch of those different paste syringe combos available. And cheap.
 
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