Tiriaq
Young Tutorling
I use an ear plug. They are soft and very cheap. Nice and small, so holding in you hand at the same time as you airbrush makes it easy to use.
Oww, cool. Never heard of that one, thnx!!
I use an ear plug. They are soft and very cheap. Nice and small, so holding in you hand at the same time as you airbrush makes it easy to use.
https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/fengda-bd-180-crown-cap.21593/
https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/interdental-toothbrushes-for-cleaning.21868/
Either way, I don't use guard anymore. I joined to: no protection pay the damage club. Much easier to clean.
sry friend. I don't have H&S. I have 2 iwatas which are praying to get some brothers and sisters in the future.my Evolution Silverline doesn't seem to be in that compatibility list
my Evolution Silverline doesn't seem to be in that compatibility list
If any of the Evolution and/or Infinity nozzle air caps are compatible with the Silverline, then any other cap that's also compatible with the regular Evo or Infinity should be compatible with the Silverline too. Logically for any of them to be cross-compatible, they'd all have to use the same threads, dimensions, nozzle spacing, etc..
To clean tip dry off the outside of the nozzle/needle, I usually use a q-tip. I moisten it with thinner/reducer, hold it perpendicular to the needle, and twirl the cotton "outward" along the nozzle/needle tip. I've tried toothbrushes, and found them to be ineffective, but an artist's brush sounds like it would work well if you selected the right type. The earplug idea sounds interesting and worth a try, though in my experience methods that push the accumulated paint forward are better than ones that push it back. Methods that clean by pushing back can end up packing the "removed" paint into the air gap between the air cap and the nozzle.
To clean the inside of a nozzle, I use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle point and soaked in thinner/reducer. I cringe hard whenever anyone suggests using a metal tool to do this (or even interdental brushes, as they usually have twisted wire cores), as that sounds like a perfect way to cumulatively damage the nozzle, either by scratching the inside, or flaring/distorting the tip. I wouldn't even use the ABs own needle to do this, much less a cheap Chinese needle that won't match the nozzle taper and might have any random amount or degree of surface finish snags.
Regardless, as others have said: you shouldn't have to manually clean the inside of the nozzle unless you're actively seeing signs of a clog stuck to the wall in there. Under most normal operation, flushing and spray-out with reducer/cleaner is all the nozzle needs to stay clean.
When it comes to the H&S Nozzle tool, it was designed by them and for their products. As long as you are using it for the .2mm and greater as it specifies, there are no problems.
I can tell you that every time I’ve had paint flow problems, one quick twist and my problem was gone.
It does auto center and prevent splitting. I had a post years back where a .2mm nozzle from the factory wasn’t working. I used the tool and applied more pressure, some brass came out on the tip of the tool. It didn’t split it, it actually fixed the nozzle and it’s still in my brush.The H&S tool is a special case exception. It's a tool made by H&S specifically for H&S nozzles, so you know it's going to be exactly the right shape and have certain standards in place on both the design and the manufacturing end. Plus the design of H&S nozzles would allow one to design a tool that would socket into the back of the nozzle to auto-center the metal cleaning needle and prevent one from pressing it in too far or hard (I don't know if the H&S tool actually does this, but I'd be surprised if it didn't, given how easily it could be done, and H&S's generally clever attention to detail in their brush designs). You're not going to get any of those things with a rando Chinese needle or an interdental brush with twisted wire ends "hidden" in the tip.
To clean the inside of a nozzle, I use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle point and soaked in thinner/reducer
Horror story... Once the wooden tip broke inside the nozzle when I was twisting... I got it out eventually but ordered the H&S maintenance kit the same day.
When using a toothpick, I insert it enough so the tip is poking out the nozzle end, then orbit around the inside perimeter to scrub. I don't insert it all the way to filling the nozzle/hole and spin it, which is what I'd guess you must have been doing. Doing that with wood, you'd be asking for the tip of the tool to either break off or be cut off by the edge of the nozzle hole.
And even with a soft tool like a wood toothpick, the metal at the tip of the nozzle is so thin that depending on the airbrush brand you could still flare it (you'd have to push pretty hard with an Iwata nozzle, but I dunno about H&S).
I suppose I should have been clearer about that when recommending toothpicks: orbit, don't ream.
I use regular wooden toothpick, but I did cut mine with exacto. I didn't have problems with my toothpick. Pictures are sharp like my minds isNupe, didn't do anything like you described. I would never use force or try to ramp a toothpick into the nozzle because with H&S nozzle, it will simple compress all that dry paint towards the tip of the nozzle and make matters worse.
Just gently insert the toothpick, turn it around gently and snap! I believe it was because I bought the cheapest toothpick there is, some recycle bamboo toothpick that cost a quarter for like a thousand sticks.
I use regular wooden toothpick, but I did cut mine with exacto. I didn't have problems with my toothpick. Pictures are sharp like my minds is
regular vs cutted comparison. I use toothpicks at last stage. It is more just in case. But I don't need them any more from the day I started soaking nozzles.
I guess this wouldn't work on small nozzle?
If using a sharpened piece of wood (and yes, I do this too) use a piece of bamboo - if you can. The wood toothpicks, or cocktail sticks (depending on your location around the globe ) can vary tremendously from piece to piece. It is very easy to have what happened to Andre, happen - a small piece breaking off, and getting stuck in the nozzle. Bamboo has much tougher, long fibers, making it much less prone to this sort of breakage. They make skewers for grilling that are perfect for this application... it is also much easier to carve to a long taper without breakage than the normal toothpick.
If using a toothpick, and something like Andre's experience should befall you, you can try allowing the nozzle to soak in mildly soapy water, maybe for a few days, an then try poking the stuck piece out with an old needle. Sometimes they will soften, and push out almost like putty...