Powdery Createx illustration paint.

C0y0te

Needle-chuck Ninja
I've just moved over to Createx illustration paints and have next to no experience in them. I have only been using black and white opaques so far but have noticed that the paint film is drying with a powdery residue on the surface. If I wipe a paper towel over the dry paint it coats the paper. The paint does not come clean off the surface but it's as if the top layer isn't adhering. The paint is new and hasn't been sitting around on my shelf. It doesn't matter whether I thin it or not, it still leaves a dusty surface. I am painting on an acrylic primed canvas. Very good quality. Anyone else encountered this?

Iwata Eclipse
Iwata custom micron cm-sb
Createx illustration;
Black
White
 
It sounds to me that the paint is drying before it hits the surface, causing a powder like feel and is acting more like over spray. I reduce and set my air accordingly. The farther away you are, will cause the paint to dry before hitting the surface.
 
I've just moved over to Createx illustration paints and have next to no experience in them. I have only been using black and white opaques so far but have noticed that the paint film is drying with a powdery residue on the surface. If I wipe a paper towel over the dry paint it coats the paper. The paint does not come clean off the surface but it's as if the top layer isn't adhering. The paint is new and hasn't been sitting around on my shelf. It doesn't matter whether I thin it or not, it still leaves a dusty surface. I am painting on an acrylic primed canvas. Very good quality. Anyone else encountered this?

Iwata Eclipse
Iwata custom micron cm-sb
Createx illustration;
Black
White


I agree with Twood on the distance and reducing. But, make sure you are using the correct reducer for the temperature you are painting in. Don't use a fast dry reducer if you are working in 90 degree weather or super low humidity work space. use the correct reducer for the job, temperature and humidity. Just because Createx says their Illustration paints work well with #4012 reducer, doesn't mean #4012 will work with the temp OR humidity you are working in. Every reducer part number has a specific temperature range they work well in, but you may need to move up or down in temp range to fit your specific needs. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
I agree with Twood on the distance and reducing. But, make sure you are using the correct reducer for the temperature you are painting in. Don't use a fast dry reducer if you are working in 90 degree weather or super low humidity work space. use the correct reducer for the job, temperature and humidity. Just because Createx says their Illustration paints work well with #4012 reducer, doesn't mean #4012 will work with the temp OR humidity you are working in. Every reducer part number has a specific temperature range they work well in, but you may need to move up or down in temp range to fit your specific needs. Just my 2 cents worth.

I have all three of these in my arsenal...I live in Southern Ontario, Canada, and have every type of weather during the year....

4012 – Standard dilutant for all Createx paints.
4011 – High Temperature dilutant for temperatures over 80⁰ F [27⁰ C].
4020 – A specialty reducer for painting in humid or cold conditions.
 
I have all three of these in my arsenal...I live in Southern Ontario, Canada, and have every type of weather during the year....

4012 – Standard dilutant for all Createx paints.
4011 – High Temperature dilutant for temperatures over 80⁰ F [27⁰ C].
4020 – A specialty reducer for painting in humid or cold conditions.


I bet you do, and so do I, didn't Createx make a 4010 way back ? I think they quit when they brought out to 4020, not 100 % sure tho.

Anyways, we're not COyOte with the powdery dry paint, are we.... Oh by the way I forgot to mention he could add the Createx retarder # 5607, that could help it stay wet longer, if he can't get any of those 3 you listed to work as he needs to, straight out of the bottle. I think you only need a drop or two in the gravity fed airbrush paint cup, and mix it up good. But each case is different, so mix as it works for your needs, I guess. It's been years since i have used it. All this IS of course, after he tried to change his distance and / or a different / correct reducer, if he was using the wrong stuff by accident.
 
@Spritz if you wish to get a members attention just add the ‘@‘ at the front of their member name :)


Well JackEb, believe it or not, this is the first forum I've ever joined and commented on... so the neat lil tricks and goofy stuff is still new to me. But I'll try hard to remember, but be warned , I type like I talk, and I don't ever remember saying AT to my friends in my life to get their attention. It's always been Hey Kris, John, George or whom ever it is... never At or @ anyone. But thanks for the input.

P.S In the comment I made about the reducer and the retarder, I was talking to Twood, not coyote, I guess I figured he'd read it on his own, without me pointing directly to him. Again I type like I talk, So I am asking respectfully, please don't edit my comments anymore.
 
Last edited:
Well JackEb, believe it or not, this is the first forum I've ever joined and commented on... so the neat lil tricks and goofy stuff is still new to me. But I'll try hard to remember, but be warned , I type like I talk, and I don't ever remember saying AT to my friends in my life to get their attention. It's always been Hey Kris, John, George or whom ever it is... never At or @ anyone. But thanks for the input.

P.S In the comment I made about the reducer and the retarder, I was talking to Twood, not coyote, I guess I figured he'd read it on his own, without me pointing directly to him. Again I type like I talk, So I am asking respectfully, please don't edit my comments anymore.
No problems at all, we often have forum ‘virgins’ who are clueless how they work, so you’ll likely get random input from members, and if you are ever unsure then by all means ask.
I apologise for editing your post.
 
No problems at all, we often have forum ‘virgins’ who are clueless how they work, so you’ll likely get random input from members, and if you are ever unsure then by all means ask.
I apologise for editing your post.

No problem. I know about smileys and text size, and that's all I care about when typing online. At this point in my life at almost 60 years old ,I just want to airbrush, watch TV, have some beers every once in a while and hope I don't have another heart attack any time soon.
 
No problem. I know about smileys and text size, and that's all I care about when typing online. At this point in my life at almost 60 years old ,I just want to airbrush, watch TV, have some beers every once in a while and hope I don't have another heart attack any time soon.
There are a lot of members here in that age bracket (me included) with the same outlook so you’ve found the right place :)
 
Hey @Spritz ( I found the @ key!), the canvas is 120 x 90 cms. I basically laid in a solid (in reality powdery) background of one colour. Because I hadn't airbrushed on such a large scale I made the mistake of spraying from a bit more distance than I ought to have done. I trained in traditional easel painting so old habits...
I reduced my paint with distilled water; one drop of water to 7 paint. I asked Dru B. if this was ok and he gave me the go ahead. I live in Liverpool, UK. It's damp and cold. Please send food.


Forgot to add that I sprayed through an Iwata Eclipse 0.5.
 
Hey @Spritz ( I found the @ key!), the canvas is 120 x 90 cms. I basically laid in a solid (in reality powdery) background of one colour. Because I hadn't airbrushed on such a large scale I made the mistake of spraying from a bit more distance than I ought to have done. I trained in traditional easel painting so old habits...
I reduced my paint with distilled water; one drop of water to 7 paint. I asked Dru B. if this was ok and he gave me the go ahead. I live in Liverpool, UK. It's damp and cold. Please send food.


Forgot to add that I sprayed through an Iwata Eclipse 0.5.


@Coyote Wow I almost missed this thread reminder totally. Sorry about the delay. But I am glad you got it figures out.

I know a .5mm seems big but, a Badger Anthem 155 bottle feed with a .7mm setup ( but still a round spray pattern ) would work a lot better than any .5mm OR if you have a Paasche Talon, they have a .66mm needle AND a fan pattern head in the kit with 3 needle set ups 0.25mm 0.38mm and 0.66mm. You can use the standard round spray head or the FAN spray head with the 0.66mm needle and nozzle. I have one and it works great for doing a larger panel, It will give you a nice 3 inch wide spray pattern easy, with the correct reduction, air pressure and distance from the surface. Spray Gunner has the set for 97.00 Dollars, Oh and they make a 0.2mm needle and nozzle set up for it you can buy, you just use the 0.25mm air cap with it from the original kit. Heres a link to the kit / set, if you want a look . https://spraygunner.com/paasche-talon-tg-3f/

Or they make a regular spray guns / touch up gun for 50 or 60 bucks, with a 0.8mm or 1.0mm setup, ( one size only for each gun ) and an aluminum 3 or 4 ounce gravity feed cup and cap on top. But you will need a compressor with at least a 6 or 8 gallon tank to use one of those. A Link for the 0.8mm : https://www.midwestairbrush.com/pahghvtoupgu.html

Sorry for being long winded. Hope it helps for future projects.
 
Back
Top