Did some testing, who needs a micron???

As Mr.micron confirmed, I was referring to the aft of the brush. They do make a ‘soft’ spring for under the trigger but I don’t like it when spraying at super low pressure
I have soft springs on both of my eclipse. I like them. But if I spray with high pressure doesn't seems to be soft. I am assuming cause air pressure puts more ''force'' to the trigger. But I don't have a clue. We have a guy for this stuff on forum. While on 20 or 30 psi works nice, on 60 I don't feel any difference with regular one.

More pressure less noticeable difference. At least for me...
 
I have soft springs on both of my eclipse. I like them. But if I spray with high pressure doesn't seems to be soft. I am assuming cause air pressure puts more ''force'' to the trigger. But I don't have a clue. We have a guy for this stuff on forum. While on 20 or 30 psi works nice, on 60 I don't feel any difference with regular one.

More pressure less noticeable difference. At least for me...

For me, low PSI (15 or less) the soft spring isn’t strong enough to push the trigger up. Higher psi doesn’t seem to be a problem. But at 25+ I can’t pic the difference between brushes with stock or soft air valve springs
 
I have unscrewed it so much that I can put handle on, but I am on an edge to not be able to lol I like more softer fell. I would try without handle and all the way unscrewed, but I am afraid I would destroy needle by accident, so I unscrew how much I can and be able to sill put handle on.

to elaborate: I can make 2 turns with my handle when I try to screw it on. more or less 2 turns. So much that I know it holds on to airbrush.
You guys just blew my mind! I have always tightened up that part as much as possible and didn’t think twice about it. Now, with a much looser aft end, I find the controllability improved 10x! Now I can finally control the brush how I want to... a game changer!!!
 
You guys just blew my mind! I have always tightened up that part as much as possible and didn’t think twice about it. Now, with a much looser aft end, I find the controllability improved 10x! Now I can finally control the brush how I want to... a game changer!!!
lol this is hilarious

I watched your work and your progress from the day you joined to this forum. Still remember the day you decided to get a better airbrush. Don't know why I think you were on Sparmax before you went Iwata. Your progress was very fast from the day you joined. Now I'm gonna grab some popcorn and wait to see what you gonna make with airbrush you can control like you always wonted. :cool:

Next time, don't be shy, just ask :laugh:
 
@Franc Kaiser

time stamp 8:27(put video to this time)


I would like to unscrew like this guy, but I know myself. As soon I would do that, I would poke my self in to eye with back of the needle or I would destroy needle. But He can have soft tension like that. I would assume its also easier on his hand if he is airbrushing for long.

edit: I am assuming he has soft tension, but maybe he doesn't. Maybe he just doesn't like having a handle.
 
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I’ll say it again y’all are awesome. I didn’t expect this thread to turn into a discussion like this but the information given out has been fantastic. I will definitely try loosening that piece a little and see how the brush reacts and see what sort of control or lack of control I have with it.
 
Thanks Husky! Arrgh... now the onus is on me to deliver... yes, I worked with a sparmax Sp20x for a long time, then last year I got a Creos ps270, and in Nov 2019 a hp-bp (which I just destroyed unfortunately - now I am back on the ps270 again). All those brushes I tightened up like crazy...
 
Thanks Husky! Arrgh... now the onus is on me to deliver... yes, I worked with a sparmax Sp20x for a long time, then last year I got a Creos ps270, and in Nov 2019 a hp-bp (which I just destroyed unfortunately - now I am back on the ps270 again). All those brushes I tightened up like crazy...
Oh yea, you got Creos ps270. Thx for refreshing my memory, now I remember.
Don't beat your self up for tightening up like crazy, at least now you know and you opened another mystery box in airbrushing world.
 
I’ll say it again y’all are awesome. I didn’t expect this thread to turn into a discussion like this but the information given out has been fantastic. I will definitely try loosening that piece a little and see how the brush reacts and see what sort of control or lack of control I have with it.
Sometimes threads make a nice turns and sometimes they make a weird turn. This one made a nice turn :laugh:
 
Ill admit when it first got my brush a few weeks ago I thought there was going to be no way I was going be able to get the lines I was wanting to get on the size of work I planned on working on. I was a little frustrated and disheartened thinking I was going to have to scrape my plans. That said the NEO is a great brush and you can do a lot with it but I can imagine stepping up to an Eclipse in the future (probably the near future).

I suggest Iwata HP-C (high-performance), the price is slightly higher than Eclipse, but HP-C is far better.
I see You practice with watercolour paper, but keep in mind it's pretty absorbent and more forgiving, hard surfaces are more challenging.
 
I haven't had a lot of time lately to devote to working on actual project do customer orders for my "side business" but I didn't want my airbrush getting lonely so tonight I decided to take about 30 min or so and just do some playing around. I still have not found that perfect combination of air pressure and paint reduction for the best results, so thats what I messed with tonight.

I took a piece of watercolor paper and marked it out with 9 different squares and marked them with the reduction and air pressure. I went from 10 PSI to 15 PSI to 20 PSI, with reductions of 1:1, 2:1, and 4:1 at each pressure. I was actually surprised how fine of a dot and line I could get out of a .35 NEO, it wasn't the easiest to super fine lines and dots but it was possible, but it felt as though there was a little bit of a "slop" (for lack of a better word) in the trigger and it took a lot of focus and concentration to keep that fine line. I can see that over time working with this brush putting those very thin lines won't be an issue at all.

I still have a long way to go with trigger control as you can see but its so much better than I was even 2 weeks ago. My beginner advice to all the other beginners out there, it may be boring to make dots and lines over and over again but it really does help, and play with your reductions and your your pressure, I was really really surprised that it seems as thought 20PSI at a 2:1 reduction is a comfortable spot.

I relate this post about airbrushes to new people who get into competitive shooting sports like USPSA 3-Gun, IDPA, etc. They attend a couple of local matches and then run out and want to buy some $5000.00 souped up, custom gunsmithed handgun they think will given them the best chance of winning. What they don’t realize is that what will give them 90% of the initial edge is developing good trigger control, aiming, overcoming anticipatory flinch, etc., which will take several years and over 100,000 rounds to prefect. All of which can easily be done with a stock Glock, S&W M&P, Springfield Xd, etc. for around $500. In the hands of a capable shooter, a high end handgun can give them just that more of an edge, but only because they’ve spend years mastering the basics.

The same is true if you’re spraying paint on canvas instead of bullets on a range. A top of the line airbrush can’t make you a master overnight either. They often times are more demanding and finicky than other models and can be a headache for newbies who really need to focus building good basic fine motor control with the brush (I suspect this is why the Paasche AB had such a polarized fan base). What you really need as a beginner is a well made and reliable brush, not necessarily the most expensive one, which will allow you to practice and develop consistent technique with. My first brush was a Badger 150 my father bought me for Christmas and I used that quite a bit before moving onto other guns. And to be honest, it used to be that about 90% of my work was done with a 0.3 mm Iwata HP-C because of its flexibility. For the final edge in detail work I did have Microns and a Paasche AB available. But they are really specialized pieces for fine detail and to be honest, at that point in my life, I suspect I really didn’t have the technique yet to fully appreciate their full range of capabilities.

You’d really be surprised what a little bit of practice, and some creativity can do with a decent bit of kit like an Iwata NEO, etc. That gun will work well for what you’re doing.
 
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