A question about Master Airbrush MAS TC-96T

Ryck

Needle-chuck Ninja
Hello,

I recently bought a used Master Airbrush MAS TC-96T compressor on ebay. I got this compressor for less than $20 due to some damage to the tank and regulator. Upon arrival, I found that the damage was minimal and very easy to repair so I bought a new heavy duty MA regulator for it and got it going.

This compressor is whisper quiet for a dual piston type compressor and works great but I did not get a manual with it so I have tried to find one but no luck with that so far.

If anyone of you can tell me what kind of maintenance this compressor requires I would be most grateful.
 
They’re ‘maintenance free’ so just remember to use the drain on the bottom of the tank to remove any residual water, (I do mine weekly) empty any moisture from the moisture trap as you see it accumulate (you may never get any in the trap- that’s ok )
 
Like Jacki said they're maintenance free Things do go wrong occasionally, but if they do we probably have things covered in one thread or another.

Lee
 
Thanks guys for the information. I kind of thought they might be maintenance free as I did not see any place to add oil to it.
 
If I could revive this thread: Ryck, does your relief valve work? I have two TC-96T compressors and neither one will allow me to pull out the relief valve.
 
If I could revive this thread: Ryck, does your relief valve work? I have two TC-96T compressors and neither one will allow me to pull out the relief valve.
you should be able to move the relief valve, it the tank is pressurised it should scare the *&^% out of you ! if its not pressurised you won't hear/notice anything
 
They are stuck, on both compressor. Will not budge when pressurized. The only way it will move is if I loosen the end piece, but then air begins to escape from the threads. Is there anyone else with this model air compressor and the same problem?
 
If I could revive this thread: Ryck, does your relief valve work? I have two TC-96T compressors and neither one will allow me to pull out the relief valve.

I had not given it a thought but I pressurized the tank and used a screwdriver to pull the ring and it is stuck. I might take it off and see if some lubrication will help loosen it up.
 
BIG UPDATE...

I learned a lot about pressure relief valves today. I removed the valve from the compressor tank and disassembled it. Being very mechanically adept, I figured that I could learn something from doing this. I had thought as some of you may have, that the "keyring" on the end could be pulled to test the valve but I was very wrong in assuming that. It is actually an adjustment for the limits of the relief valve in that it turns. I found that the valve is preset for a certain pressure and it should be turned until it is tight to achieve maximum pressure.

Most of the entire valve assembly is solid brass so there are no parts that could rust inside. There is a steel spring however but it must be rustproof. There is a red rubber part that is the seal for the pressure valve and the adjustment part has a black rubber O ring to seal it. The one on mine shows some wear or is just old and breaking down but still does the job.

So, overall, there are no parts other than the rubber seal parts in it that could wear out that I could find. I reassembled and reinstalled it and it works just like it did before. I did learn that unless the pressure cutoff switch fails, this valve is dormant. My MAS TC-96T compressor has a two position switch which in the up position, the compressor will automatically cycle as normal. In the down position, it runs continuously.

Here is a picture of what the valve looks like disassembled. All of the parts are in the order of assembly. I hope this solves the mystery of how this valve works for some of you as it did for me. :)

Pressure Relief Valve Disassembled.jpg
 
BIG UPDATE...

I learned a lot about pressure relief valves today. I removed the valve from the compressor tank and disassembled it. Being very mechanically adept, I figured that I could learn something from doing this. I had thought as some of you may have, that the "keyring" on the end could be pulled to test the valve but I was very wrong in assuming that. It is actually an adjustment for the limits of the relief valve in that it turns. I found that the valve is preset for a certain pressure and it should be turned until it is tight to achieve maximum pressure.

Most of the entire valve assembly is solid brass so there are no parts that could rust inside. There is a steel spring however but it must be rustproof. There is a red rubber part that is the seal for the pressure valve and the adjustment part has a black rubber O ring to seal it. The one on mine shows some wear or is just old and breaking down but still does the job.

So, overall, there are no parts other than the rubber seal parts in it that could wear out that I could find. I reassembled and reinstalled it and it works just like it did before. I did learn that unless the pressure cutoff switch fails, this valve is dormant. My MAS TC-96T compressor has a two position switch which in the up position, the compressor will automatically cycle as normal. In the down position, it runs continuously.

Here is a picture of what the valve looks like disassembled. All of the parts are in the order of assembly. I hope this solves the mystery of how this valve works for some of you as it did for me. :)

View attachment 65109
great info :thumbsup:
 
Rick, I Disassembled it too but I couldn’t get that last part off of the sensor cable. Is there a trick to removing that last piece from the sensor cable that last brass piece? Also, the brass piece with o-ring would not come out of the other brass piece. And I have two of these compressors, same situation for both.
 
Last edited:
Rick, I Disassembled it too but I couldn’t get that last part off of the sensor cable. Is there a trick to removing that last piece from the sensor cable that last brass piece? Also, the brass piece with o-ring would not come out of the other brass piece. And I have two of these compressors, same situation for both.

I did not take that part off at all. My compressor is shutting itself off at the factory set pressure just fine and cycles just fine as well. All I did was disassemble the safety relief valve. Sorry, but I can't answer your question on that sensor part.
 
The first brass fitting on the far left side. That part is threaded into the sensor/regulator with a black cable. EDIT: I just looked again, and you did not remove THAT part. Disregard. Thanks for your response!
 
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