Harder en Steenbeck double action airbrush is spraying fluid when just pressing down on the trigger

rainfall said:

Interesting to read, are you suggesting that I should only clean my tip of the needle every few seconds or so when I'm noticing paint splatters on my paper when practicing? Or when I hear a hissing sound? Because that is something I heard one time when spraying with my airbrush.
What you are saying about factors that depends on dry tip occuring, sounds very difficult to me.
For me it seems so simple, I just want to have fun with my airbrush and my model making.
And just take the airbrush apart and clean it, so the next time I can happily being spraying again with my airbrush.

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water based are safer for your health than solvent/enamel based products.
Tip dry is just a part of water based paints, just clean the tip every 30 seconds or when you hear the air change and you'll never have to worry about tip dry.
You can also have scrap paper alongside you and give a quick spray to remove the paint on the tip (but that wastes paint)
you will suffer tip dry while you learn the airbrush and learn proper technique. As you get more time with the airbrush the tip dry will not occur as often but will still happen. Different colours dry on the tip quicker than others - white is a common 'tip dry' problem.

If you are painting in your house then consider the water based option. You may be masked up but do you have other humans / pets that can also be breathing in any non water based products you are spraying ?

Airbrushing IS fun, but like everything else, you need to learn how to use it properly.

I'm airbrushing in the barn at home, sometimes others come into the barn to get the motorcycle out to drive with it.
Or, someone get's her bicycle to go to work or to the shop.
But other than that, noone around.
And the output of the spray booth goes to the outside world, where a garden is between where you walk and the house.
So, I don't really see a problem here.

One point to note here, the paint I'm using.
Tamiya acrylics, is a paint that is on alcohol basis but I don't know much other details.
Maybe others can help me to learn more about the paints I use?

Another point to note, I never had chemistry lessons or so.
So all those difficult principles etc. will say nothing to me.
So that is another point to pay special attention to if you want to explain things to me.

Ronald art said:

yes I did

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I will remove those articles from my book marks.

SiRoxx said:

In that case I would avoid waterbased acrylic paint. Solvent and lacquer paints will do what you want. The downside is they smell and require a suitable respirator in order to use.


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Okay.
What about Alcohol based acrylic paints like the ones from Tamiya?
I'am interested in the Mr. Paint paints from Slovakia if I'm correct.
Lacquer based paints or so.
But, I don't have a respirator yet.
And it will take time before I'm able to get one.
Plus, I now already have a stock of Tamiya acrylic paints.
And, I'm planning on getting more from Mr. Hobby paints.
Another paint and manufacturer I have read often good stories about the products they made and make.
Definitely wanting to give that a try as well.

rainfall said:

Okay.
What about Alcohol based acrylic paints like the ones from Tamiya?
I'am interested in the Mr. Paint paints from Slovakia if I'm correct.
Lacquer based paints or so.
But, I don't have a respirator yet.
And it will take time before I'm able to get one.
Plus, I now already have a stock of Tamiya acrylic paints.
And, I'm planning on getting more from Mr. Hobby paints.
Another paint and manufacturer I have read often good stories about the products they made and make.
Definitely wanting to give that a try as well.

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Most Acrylic paints have some alcohol involved or else it’s in the reducer. As Jackie said, just get used to cleaning the tip dry from the needle. Technique does have an effect too, so that is I’ll improve in time and reduce the amount of time spent cleaning the needle. It can be frustrating, but there is no quick fix unfortunately.


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SiRoxx said:

Most Acrylic paints have some alcohol involved or else it’s in the reducer. As Jackie said, just get used to cleaning the tip dry from the needle. Technique does have an effect too, so that is I’ll improve in time and reduce the amount of time spent cleaning the needle. It can be frustrating, but there is no quick fix unfortunately.


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I'm having an aircap I believe it is called, over my needle that doesn't allow quick acces to get the dried paint of that easily.
I'm going to make some photo's of my airbrushes to post to help out in matters.

for easy acces to your needle but still protecting the needle from getting damaged you can buy or make a two sprong needle cap but there is a way to clean the dry tip from the needle with the needle cap you have on your airbrush : a hairy brush dipped in water will clean your needle just be careful and use a number 4 brush

Don't think that water will do the trick, since the paint I use is on alcohol base.
Maybe with airbrush cleaner?
I'm still going to buy Paint Retarder of Tamiya. See if it helps solving my problem.
If that doesn't help either, than I don't have any choice than constantly cleaning the tip after every few seconds...

the cheap bio ethanol from the "Action" will clean your alcohol based paint right off