A newbie's questions on connectors, hoses and transporting an oiled compressor

M

MrPickles

Guest
Hello all

New to the forums, and happy to join the community. First a bit about myself. I'm a late 30's bloke who lives in South Africa, although sometimes in Europe. I mostly work in digital graphic design, and getting into airbrushing is purely a hobby for now. My intended uses are miniature painting and probably some 2D art for practice and pleasure. I've picked up some equipment to get started, and have the following at the moment:

Compressor: Werther Sil-Air 50-24 oil lubricated silent compressor (24 liter tank)
Brush: H&S infinity cr plus 2-in-1 kit (0.4 and 0.15 mm needles)

I am currently preparing for a move, and I don't have time to get into setting up a workroom right now, so intend to get to it once I'm relocated. The last time I airbrushed was nearly 20 years ago as a teenager, so consider me a complete noob. My questions are as follows, and I'd appreciate any help I can get:

I got a 5 meter coiled air hose with the compressor, which I -think- is 1/4 inch. It has a male connector and a quick release female connector. The compressor has a quick release female connector which fits the hose. Obviously the airbrush I have doesn't fit the massive female 1/4 inch quick release, and I don't know much about the various connectors. What is my best option to getting the airbrush connected up, and what connectors/hoses should I be looking to get? The H&S airbrush manual that came with the brush says that the connector is 2.7 mm which is a bit confusing since that doesn't seem to fit with the standard hose diameters I've seen (like I said, I'm not well versed in this type of equipment). Should I just ditch the coil hose and get something else or can it be put to use with some fittings on the end? The compressor has a built in moisture trap, I believe.

My second set of question relates to my move. I'm flying from Europe to South Africa next month, and have space in both a cargo container and an airfreight container for furniture and equipment. From what I can see, there seems to already be some oil in the compressor, so I'm not sure about using the air-freight to transport it. Does anyone know if this is safe or if there are any precautions I should take for transporting it? I'd hate for oil to leak all over the rest of the container.

I've also uploaded a few photos here just for reference. Can anyone tell me what the valves/thingamajigs labelled A and B might be? A is on the left side of the output regulator/moisture trap and B is the small bit sticking out of the tank. Pencil for size reference on right of the air hose pic.

Thanks again for any help you might be able to offer, and please let me know if there's any further information I can add.
airhose.jpg compressor_connector.jpg compressor_conns_2.jpg
 
The H&S can use an Iwata air hose which has one end set up to just screw in a male coupler to hook straight to your compressor while the other end will screw right to the air brush.
As far as shipping your compressor just drain the oil out into a good sealing container and then box it up nicely and ship it .
While this thread does have a introduction in it , it's not really an introduction LOL
But nice to have you here.
 
I've moved a lot of laboratory equipment by sea and air over the years and we've always had to drain oils before shipping. I believe it is possible to ship wet but you'd have to send it as hazardous goods with all the associated paperwork and palaver. Probably easier to buy new oil on arrival.
 
While this thread does have a introduction in it , it's not really an introduction LOL
But nice to have you here.

I was thinking about that when I was reading This thread this morning. Airbrush forum should have a nice link to introduction and few tips what to do when you are signing to forum. I forgot if there were any when I was signing to forum, I just remember you asking for introduction and me posting food.

you know something like this:

if you press accept you agree to the forum rules and that you will do introduction in our introduction forum: *link to introduction section* , cause we are noisy bunch :)

Sry pickles for little thread hijack and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you with us.
 
Hello all

New to the forums, and happy to join the community. First a bit about myself. I'm a late 30's bloke who lives in South Africa, although sometimes in Europe. I mostly work in digital graphic design, and getting into airbrushing is purely a hobby for now. My intended uses are miniature painting and probably some 2D art for practice and pleasure. I've picked up some equipment to get started, and have the following at the moment:

Compressor: Werther Sil-Air 50-24 oil lubricated silent compressor (24 liter tank)
Brush: H&S infinity cr plus 2-in-1 kit (0.4 and 0.15 mm needles)

I am currently preparing for a move, and I don't have time to get into setting up a workroom right now, so intend to get to it once I'm relocated. The last time I airbrushed was nearly 20 years ago as a teenager, so consider me a complete noob. My questions are as follows, and I'd appreciate any help I can get:

I got a 5 meter coiled air hose with the compressor, which I -think- is 1/4 inch. It has a male connector and a quick release female connector. The compressor has a quick release female connector which fits the hose. Obviously the airbrush I have doesn't fit the massive female 1/4 inch quick release, and I don't know much about the various connectors. What is my best option to getting the airbrush connected up, and what connectors/hoses should I be looking to get? The H&S airbrush manual that came with the brush says that the connector is 2.7 mm which is a bit confusing since that doesn't seem to fit with the standard hose diameters I've seen (like I said, I'm not well versed in this type of equipment). Should I just ditch the coil hose and get something else or can it be put to use with some fittings on the end? The compressor has a built in moisture trap, I believe.

My second set of question relates to my move. I'm flying from Europe to South Africa next month, and have space in both a cargo container and an airfreight container for furniture and equipment. From what I can see, there seems to already be some oil in the compressor, so I'm not sure about using the air-freight to transport it. Does anyone know if this is safe or if there are any precautions I should take for transporting it? I'd hate for oil to leak all over the rest of the container.

I've also uploaded a few photos here just for reference. Can anyone tell me what the valves/thingamajigs labelled A and B might be? A is on the left side of the output regulator/moisture trap and B is the small bit sticking out of the tank. Pencil for size reference on right of the air hose pic.

Thanks again for any help you might be able to offer, and please let me know if there's any further information I can add.
View attachment 58742 View attachment 58743 View attachment 58744
I’m not sure what B is. But A is a valve that you can use to empty the air receiver. Pulling the ring opens the valve and it empties to atmosphere. Mine is a little fierce and when I do use it it’s usually with one finger in my ear expecting an explosion lol.


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I’m not sure what B is. But A is a valve that you can use to empty the air receiver. Pulling the ring opens the valve and it empties to atmosphere. Mine is a little fierce and when I do use it it’s usually with one finger in my ear expecting an explosion lol.


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I have the same friking issue. I was thinking about using ear plugs for that. How often do you pull that ring? I got advice once per 3 months. I would guess on smaller tanks there is so much noise when you pull the trigger. Actually, if I would open draining valve the noise from the air would be to much also. I open it on half when I start with draining and later I fully open, when tank is already half empty. I should put hose on that draining valve thingy and shoot my neighbour with it. -.-
 
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You never pull the ring the ring is the blow off valve in case your tank build to much pressure due to a faulty regulator. It is a safety valve.
The bleeder valve which is usually on the bottom of the tank is for draining water out
B looks to me to be just a air release valve that you open to let the air out of the tank prior to draining or storing it.
 
You never pull the ring the ring is the blow off valve in case your tank build to much pressure due to a faulty regulator. It is a safety valve.
The bleeder valve which is usually on the bottom of the tank is for draining water out
B looks to me to be just a air release valve that you open to let the air out of the tank prior to draining or storing it.
The seller which sold me compressor told me I need to do that so that it doesn't build rust on that spring. And he also add that that's how you check that valve.
 
The seller which sold me compressor told me I need to do that so that it doesn't build rust on that spring. And he also add that that's how you check that valve.
Interesting being on all the compressors I have bought over the years a few professionally install due to being 2 phase 600 gallon always told me to never pull that release valve due to it never went bad on them. I have had a faulty regulator which caused that safety valve to pop off but that was after over ten years of use . I guess it is all in who is selling or installing the compressor . Even on my Silent air it only says to bleed air from the tank open the filter valve then open the water drain valve but nothing about the safety valve.
 
Interesting being on all the compressors I have bought over the years a few professionally install due to being 2 phase 600 gallon always told me to never pull that release valve due to it never went bad on them. I have had a faulty regulator which caused that safety valve to pop off but that was after over ten years of use . I guess it is all in who is selling or installing the compressor . Even on my Silent air it only says to bleed air from the tank open the filter valve then open the water drain valve but nothing about the safety valve.
Now I don't know what to do. I pul lthat pin like 3 times from the day I bought it...
 
How to test your pressure relief valve
VMAC recommends the inspection of the pressure relief valve for signs of corrosion or loss of functionality. VMAC’s manuals include test instructions to perform a pressure relieve valve inspection:

“To test the pressure relief valve functionality, turn the system on and bring it up to operating pressure. Pull the ring on the pressure relief valve to depressurize the system. Turn the system off, and ensure the system comes back to operating pressure when the system is restarted. If the pressure relief valve is showing loss of functionality, contact your local, authorized VMAC dealer for a replacement part. Relief valve failure can result in air/oil tank overpressurization leading to system failure or rupture.”

https://www.vmacair.com/blog/air-compressor-pressure-relief-valves-purpose-testing/

Now I really need your help guys, cause I don't wanna screw something up. I have 90 liters compressor so I don't plan to blow something up in the future lol
 
How to test your pressure relief valve
VMAC recommends the inspection of the pressure relief valve for signs of corrosion or loss of functionality. VMAC’s manuals include test instructions to perform a pressure relieve valve inspection:

“To test the pressure relief valve functionality, turn the system on and bring it up to operating pressure. Pull the ring on the pressure relief valve to depressurize the system. Turn the system off, and ensure the system comes back to operating pressure when the system is restarted. If the pressure relief valve is showing loss of functionality, contact your local, authorized VMAC dealer for a replacement part. Relief valve failure can result in air/oil tank overpressurization leading to system failure or rupture.”

https://www.vmacair.com/blog/air-compressor-pressure-relief-valves-purpose-testing/

Now I really need your help guys, cause I don't wanna screw something up. I have 90 liters compressor so I don't plan to blow something up in the future lol
Interesting maybe over the decades they have added that in, But being my silent air is about 15 years old and my shop compressor is pushing 30 might be why.The only thing I have replaced on the shop compressor is the regulator due to not allowing it to kick on. The silent air has had no issues at all . but I have changed the oil in it about 15 times LOL yes that is a yearly thing.
 
B is a drain valve, they've just run a tube to the tank bottom from it so water comes out when it's open. Same as the ones normally at the tank.bottom just relocated for convenience and probably less prone to rusting and seizing shut.
 
I have the same friking issue. I was thinking about using ear plugs for that. How often do you pull that ring? I got advice once per 3 months. I would guess on smaller tanks there is so much noise when you pull the trigger. Actually, if I would open draining valve the noise from the air would be to much also. I open it on half when I start with draining and later I fully open, when tank is already half empty. I should put hose on that draining valve thingy and shoot my neighbour with it. -.-
I just pull it every once in a while to make sure it’s moving freely. Usually I’ll drain the air from the bottom and do the moisture too. Maybe once a month.


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