A question about polishing needles...

Ryck

Needle-chuck Ninja
I have seen things on the internet talking about polishing airbrush needles for the best performance. How is this best done?

UPDATE... I think I have found the information on this that I was looking for in another thread. I feel like I can probably deal with it being that I also have experience in jewelry making and the polishing methods used therein.
 
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I don’t know if this is the thread you found but it’s probably got the answers you seek. With a lapidary background you should have at least the right polish on hand :)
 
I don’t know if this is the thread you found but it’s probably got the answers you seek. With a lapidary background you should have at least the right polish on hand :)

Yes, I do have a supply of various polishing compounds on hand. I had one needle that had a very slight burr on the very tip. I could feel it if I pulled the tip between my fingers. No problem to fix at all. I mainly want to polish them so that there will be less of a chance of paint sticking to the nozzle and needle. This is the thread I found earlier.

https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/polishing-needle-is-this-the-right-way.22430/

Thanks for your reply.
 
Thanks for the link. At a glance, it looks like a good read and solid information. I see that they are using a Dremel rotary tool to spin the needle. I used a cordless drill earlier but I already have a cordless Dremel tool with the variable chuck. I will try it next time.
With your background it would be great to see a bit of a “how to” when you get into polishing the needles. It’s really useful when other skills and backgrounds can be applied to information on this forum.
Let us know how it works out Buddy.


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Be careful if holding the needle in the Dremel it spins FAST!
I toyed with the idea of using a mop in the Dremel and mounting it in a vice or strapping it to my desk so I could use it like a proper mop, otherwise its usually needle in the chuck and spin in a cloth with polishing compound. I also have some 6000 grit aircraft window polishing cloth ( I was told it was from the aerospace industry) that I just drag the last 2 inch of the needle through by hand. It doesn't need to be polished behind/beyond the cup.
 
Thanks guys for your input on this. When I decide the best way to polish the needles, I will share that with you. As far as using the Dremel tool, I agree that the speed it produces is too high. It could end up bending the needle beyond repair.

My cordless drill in it's high RPM setting was plenty fast enough to do the job last night. As far as repairing the very tip of the needle that had a burr on it, I simply dragged the tip over a fine grain emory board very lightly while spinning it in with the drill. It only took three short and quick passes. I actually used a polishing cloth called a "Sunshine Cloth" that is impregnated with jeweler's rouge to polish the needle. That cloth also has Carnauba wax in it which leaves a very fine coating of wax on the surface which I did wipe off with a cloth and some cleaning solution.
 
Thanks guys for your input on this. When I decide the best way to polish the needles, I will share that with you. As far as using the Dremel tool, I agree that the speed it produces is too high. It could end up bending the needle beyond repair.

My cordless drill in it's high RPM setting was plenty fast enough to do the job last night. As far as repairing the very tip of the needle that had a burr on it, I simply dragged the tip over a fine grain emory board very lightly while spinning it in with the drill. It only took three short and quick passes. I actually used a polishing cloth called a "Sunshine Cloth" that is impregnated with jeweler's rouge to polish the needle. That cloth also has Carnauba wax in it which leaves a very fine coating of wax on the surface which I did wipe off with a cloth and some cleaning solution.
Dremel has a cordless one that you can adjust the speed on.
 
Women seem to favor the ones run on batteries for some reason. :D

I have one of each myself, and the cordless model has much better speed control. The corded one almost put me in the hospital once. It seems having a long stretch of metal wire breaking loose at 15,000 rpm is a bad thing. Who knew?
 
Yeh it was corded one that flung the needle out at a similar rpm. My little battery one is one that's for golfers and has a little wire brush as standard, only designed to clean the crap off your shoes. It does me for attaching a diamond burr tool and sculpting the prongs on the 2 prong needle caps. That's all I use it for. Not powerful enough for anything else and as it runs on normal aa batteries doesn't work for long before they need changing. Thankful for rechargables.
 
My Dremel is an older one: mid-nineties corded model with a slider switch on the side for RPM. Seen all kinds of use, and still going strong. I'm told Dremel's construction quality has since fallen down the "planned obsolescence" hole.

I got a foot pedal for it back in the day that has a rheostat switch instead of a momentary or toggle switch, and that's been gold for manually controlling the RPM. The slider on the side of the Dremel bottoms out out an RPM that's still fairly high, and I don't have true "on the fly" control with it. But with the pedal switch, I have full real-time control over RPM from zero to top speed, just like with a cordless drill's trigger.

If you have a corded Dremel, I highly recommend getting a pedal switch like that.

I used my Dremel to polish the needles for my Eclipse and SOTAR. I strapped it in a bench block first so I wouldn't have to worry about the number of hands I have available. The needle sticks out a lot from the chuck, so it's super important to use one hand to passively grip the needle (firm enough that it can't deflect, but not so tight it can't spin freely) further down it's length AT ALL TIMES, otherwise it WILL spin out and bend from centrifugal wobble. As long as you're mindful of that though, it all works fine. Having the pedal switch helped a lot, both because I didn't need to take a hand off either the needle or polishing rag to start or stop it, and because it allowed me to ease the RPM carefully up from zero to whatever felt comfortable/safe, rather than instantly exploding to whatever the slider was set to.

Contextually irrelevant side note: I've always REALLY wished Dremels had a switch to control motor direction the way drills do. If you're right handed, the direction of the motor often has it spraying the dust/particles from grinding or cutting directly toward your face instead of down or away.
 
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That pedal sounds like a good bit of kit. Yeh You need 3 hands and that's what I didn't have hence the flying needle :) You seem to have it sorted with your setup though. Never thought about the reverse switch. I usually have it aiming away from me though so dont have too much hassle. I will stick to my cordless drill when I polish a needle :) Good to know there is something to help control the dremel though.
 
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