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Advise Please

Discussion in 'Airbrushes' started by Bryan71, May 1, 2019.


  1. Bryan71

    Bryan71 Young Tutorling

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    Having purchased a Iwata CM-SB a couple of weeks ago.I haven’t used anything else it’s a dream to use.
    I own a CM-C Plus V2 which I don’t really use much.I do marbling on my models over black basing.
    So the 0.18 is perfect but still having to switch colours a bit.
    So the options are do I sell the CM-C Plus And I was thinking of buying a CM-B
    Or do I buy a 0.18 needle and nozzle set up.As I feel I won’t really use the 0.23 set up now.
    I do have a brush for primers.
    Thanks for the input.
    Last edited: May 1, 2019
  2. MarcosD

    MarcosD Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    Why would you want to have to brushes with .18? I would keep both brushes with factory setup


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  3. markjthomson

    markjthomson AKA QuickDraw and very happy #nobrushleftbehind Staff Member Mod

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    Yup... this... don't mess with what the factory does... :) (Unless your name is Dave... @DaveG )
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  4. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    I suspect that the difference you are noticing between the C= and the SB is the atomisation, not so much the needle size.
    I got a CM B first, then later bought the CM SB because everyone seemed to say they were 'different' (so they are both .18)
    I notice a difference between the two, the SB sprays a lot better at lower PSI than I can get the B to do

    If you are happy with the SB then don't bother getting anything else, (even one of the same tip size) You can get the larger side cups if you are after more volume, you can also get bottles to fit ( I have two that I use for cleaning)

    if you get a .5 set up like an Eclipse -CS then you'll have no worries with primers / base coats / pearls etc
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  5. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    JackEB, I have heard you mention this before, and find it to be quite curious. Are both the CM-B and CM-SB V1's or V2's, and are they the same - meaning both the same "V"ersion?

    As for the original post - people get comfortable with what they get comfortable with. There are gobs of good brushes that may fit your ticket, but I didn't read anything that made it sound like you were in desperate need. You will eventually figure out what may fit the next spot in your stable, or maybe they all will.
  6. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    the CM-B is V1 and the CM-SB is V2 but they are both .18 needles :)
  7. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    Ah, ok, that explains it. The different "V" versions have different specs. The V2 air cap, nozzle, and needle work much better, and at lower pressure vs. the V1. The v1 on the other hand will produce finer atomization, and smoother blends. Not sure what needle you now have in your V1 CM-B, but the original V1 needle has a longer taper than the double angle V2... the V1 nozzles have different sized openings, as do the nozzle/air caps. I prefer the V2 configuration.
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  8. Robbyrockett2

    Robbyrockett2 Air-Valve Autobot! Very Likeable!

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    I had always figured this was due to sedimentation with particular paints. (CI)
    I use a siphon on heavy metallics on cars bc of that. Gravity just doesnt jam loose pigment right into the paint path so much......?
  9. Bryan71

    Bryan71 Young Tutorling

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    My idea was I use a brush for primers then I switch to my SB for marbling effect.I haven’t really used the 0.23 set up in awhile and thought rather than having an almost new brush sat in its box why not get another 0.18 set up.That way save on keep cleaning between colours may seem a bit over kill
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  10. Bryan71

    Bryan71 Young Tutorling

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    Thanks for that very interesting you noticed a difference between the CM-B and the SB always thought they would be the same.
  11. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    Dave
    @DaveG appears to be under the impression that because they’re a V1 and a V2 that it may be the difference but I don’t know about the technical differences, I just say it as I see it :)
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  12. huskystafford

    huskystafford Needle chucking Ninja Very Likeable!

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    You must really hate cleaning. 500 Pounds of worth hate for cleaning. :D
    Last edited: May 2, 2019
  13. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    I am working on a study/report, and have documented the differences in spray characteristics between the V1 and V2, as well as all the relevant dimensions of the parts. By the nature of the design, a gravity feed brush should work at a lower operating pressure than a side feed brush. If JackEB sees a difference in performance between the two in the opposite direction (and I trust her recount of the observation), then there has to be an explanation - which is why I asked if they were both the same version.

    In my opinion, you can never have too many .18's -

    stands2a.jpg
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  14. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    A gravity feed brush has a couple things going for it - gravity, and capillary action. A siphon feed (whether side or bottom feed) must rely completely on vacuum to get the job done. Back in the day, a retouchers choice of weapon would have been a gravity feed A cup for super precise detail work (if h were not using an Paasche AB). For gritty or larger pigment, thicker paints - perhaps a bottom feed is the perfect choice...
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  15. MarcosD

    MarcosD Mac-Valve Maestro!

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    Why you don’t use the 0.23, you can get the same amount of detail as with 0.18, if you don’t want to clean between colors, just buy a bunch of SB cups(olympos, iwata or aztec), it will be more cheaper as @DaveG pointed before.

    Jajaja I know, but you are an airbrush freak!!
    I have only 5 0.18!!


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  16. Bryan71

    Bryan71 Young Tutorling

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    Thanks everyone your probably right just fired the 0.23 brush up again and it’s good.Might invest in a couple more cups
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  17. JackEb

    JackEb The Dragon Hunter Staff Member Admin

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    I have a few of each of the 3 Iwata sizes of side cup, as well as two bottles for cleaning.. .. one of the better investments I’ve made
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  18. musicmacd

    musicmacd The Createx Bandit Artist of the Month! Very Likeable!

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    Dru has told me that he prefers the V1 over the V2, he also said the V1 is smoother to operate!
    I felt his gun and there was like no resistance anywhere!!! He also advises not to lube anything anywhere!!!
    OP - I’ve done what you’re suggesting at it is not a good move, also multiple cups - to me it’s pointless, for this reason - you have to clean the gun regardless between changes “unless contamination is not an issue” it takes less than 10 secs to clean out a colour (waterbases)
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  19. SiRoxx

    SiRoxx Party Boy UK Style Very Likeable!

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    @DaveG can correct this if I’ve gotten this wrong... But I think you could use the parts from a Creos / Mr Hobby PS770 to convert the .23 to .18, which would probably be the cheapest way of converting if that’s what you wanted to do.
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  20. DaveG

    DaveG Detail Decepticon! Very Likeable!

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    This gets into a whole different topic ;). Dru mentioned the same things about the V1 vs V2 in a conversation we had. Using them side by side, I get why he says that. Part of my theory there is that he uses a brush so much that they "break in" relatively fast compared to what others will feel out their own brushes. In a production environment, springs are generally not stress relieved after winding, so will soften over time as the stress is relieved. The more you use it, the faster the softening will occur :thumbsup:. In regard to the lube, yeah, tolerances within a brush are not such that something like a light machine oil will be of any use as a lube. Certainly not needed, and really offers zero benefit. I feel differently about a lube that will stay where you put it, or offers an actual benefit to moving parts, or seals. Again, not really needed, though...

    Just as a side note... the work I have done with my HP series of brushes, the parts that I made, springs, etc, makes them as soft, or softer to use than a Micron. Super smooth.

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