Best clear coat for models

D

Dylan

Guest
Hi,

So I was wondering what the best clear coat is for models, I paint some 3d prints that get used rather than just being to look at and the paint can rub off in places.

So is there a clear coat I should use for these? Should I be looking at 2-part or just buying a rattle can? Should I be buying a cheap airbrush to run it through or is it ok in a regular airbrush?

Thanks for any reccomendations.
 
I've been searching and trying different clear coats for plastics as well. It's been my experience, all rattle can clears I've used are just too soft. Even after a couple weeks they are still really soft.

Might simply have to go the route of getting a small touch up hvlp gun and use 2k automotive clears since they are the hardest.
Now I just heard that there's an aerosol clear called Nason and it's supposedly much harder then any other rattle can clears.
It's still not going to be as hard as a 2k but I'm going to test it out on some ps3 controllers and stuff to see how it stands up to the abuse.
Oh yeah, and by the way I wouldnt run clear coat topcoat through your airbrushes. If you get a cheapy brush and clean up RIGHT away you might be ok. But I've had bad experiences with running topcoat clears through airbrushes lol
 
You do get a 2K in a can but it is recommended to finish a can as it goes hard in the can with a day or so. So you will have to build your army and paint them all. You can shoot automotive 2K through an airbrush. If you get a nice 0.5 or 0.6 gun it will work. Just clean the gun right after you paint and do a proper job.
 
im not a model but i am incredibly good looking.... is it information from a model on clear coat you seek specifically or would my devilish good looks suffice? * throws a blue steel *
 
Right... I have bought a £13 (it's going to be great!) airbrush off fleabay and some of that clear coat, I'll let you all know how I get on.

ad fez - I'll give you a satin finish when it arrives.
 
I think i had seen that reccomended elsewhere, but as they harden in the can it's not an option for me as I'm only doing one thing at a time.
 
So my el cheapo airbrush arrived today.

Really not that bad for £12, I mean you wont be doing any detailed work with it but considering its price I really cant complain.

For it's intended purpose it was ideal in any case. Applying the clear coat was stupidly easy. I was really cautious at first applying very thin lines and going back and forth, but as it turned out getting a good thick 'visible' stream gave quick thorough coverage and showed no signs of dripping. Even when I accidentally pulled the trigger right back when intending to just blast some air and laid it on way too thick it didn't drip.

What I'm trying to get across is that this was relatively newb proof. I'm sure it wouldn't be anywhere near as good as a pro laying down a clear coat on a helmet but for my intended purposes of protecting scale model type objects it was ideal and super easy to do.

Here is the clearcoat I used: http://www.hiroboy.com/SemiGloss_Satin_2_Pack_Clearcoat_100ml_2K_Urethane--product--6377.html
Following the example of the guy in post#4
5parts clear
3parts hardener
1.5 parts thinner

I also bought some airbrush cleaner thats good for urethane stuff from Hiroboy and fully cleaned down the airbrush afterward, we shall see how well it survives.

Well ventilated areas and a good quality mask are essentials, Urethane is nasty stuff.

Oh and I cant comment on it's relative hardness as I dont have any experience with other clear coats.
 
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