Brand new airbrush sotar 20/20 not working

2 things before I spend any real time typing;

1) are you really interested in getting it sorted out, or is this just going to be a waste of typing time, and picture posting?

2) have to tried contacting Amazon for a replacement? Generally their return policy is very good, and fast.

I did just go through something similar with someone else, and in the end it did turn out to be a manufacturing flaw. The very first one i have actually seen in all these years. 99.9% f the time, it is something simple.
 
this is brand new airbrush... what old paint ?
2 things before I spend any real time typing;

1) are you really interested in getting it sorted out, or is this just going to be a waste of typing time, and picture posting?

2) have to tried contacting Amazon for a replacement? Generally their return policy is very good, and fast.

I did just go through something similar with someone else, and in the end it did turn out to be a manufacturing flaw. The very first one i have actually seen in all these years. 99.9% f the time, it is something simple.

I think you are right its not worth anyone's time. thank you for your attention its just easier to trash it and buy iwata...
 
Badger has excellent customer service. I have a Sotar 20/20 and it does great. I also have a Krome that was actually the first brush I have bought. It started leaking paint where the cup attaches to the body. I sent it back to Badger and they sent me a new one. Works great. A week after I got the new one, they sent me the one I had sent them. So now I have 2 Krome's and I can deal with the leak if I need to use it.
Send yours back and get a good one in return.
 
This happened with my master a couple of weeks ago. Down and behind the nozzle there are air passages. I rammed a rubber dental tool down one and cleared the blockage.
 
This happened with my master a couple of weeks ago. Down and behind the nozzle there are air passages. I rammed a rubber dental tool down one and cleared the blockage.
Air is coming out, it just isn't pulling any water through!

I am interested in trouble shooting it, I have emailed badger.
 
Air is coming out, it just isn't pulling any water through!

I am interested in trouble shooting it, I have emailed badger.


OK, first things first. What set up did you purchase the brush with - fine, medium or large? Is the needle protruding from the front of the nozzle - is it visible at the front of the brush? Is there a visible gap around the nozzle tip, and the regulator cap at the front of the brush? When you move the trigger, doe the needle tip move in and out?
 
Lets start by saying you are not helping things by letting the needle snap forward like you are. The needle ramming into the tip will flare it and you will have to replace it. And....it is not a piece of sh** as you think. It is a piece of precise equipment that needs to be treated like it is...I know you are getting frustrated but you will make your problems worst.
Now, for your issue....The bubbling in the cup is caused by a dirty tip (inside), or where it is seated in the nozzle head. I find in most cases, it is the tip not seated in the head. Clean, clean and clean again the area that the tip sits in. Once that area is clean, the tip will sit evenly and seal and it will help a lot. Do not scrape it with anything....Just soak it and soften any old paint, then wipe out with a cloth.
Cheers

Yup that was my suspicion as well. Use an airbrush as a precision instrument and care for it well and it will probably outlast you. Use an airbrush for a bobsled, and it probably won’t survive the winter. It’s not exactly a hammer and it can’t take that much abuse.

I suspect the head assembly should be disassembled, and the spray regulator, the needle tip, and the nozzle, should be carefully inspected under a magnifying glass for signs of damage, cracks, or plastic deformation. Somethings causing air to flow back into the fluid channel and into the color cup. I suspect the problem lies in those components, but the needle is seating properly in the nozzle. Do that inspection, and if necessary order replacement parts to make the repairs. And finally when you’re done, be kind to it during use. You won’t get much better luck out of an Iwata Custom Micron if you treat it like you did that Sotar 20/20 in the video.
 
I'm getting bubbles in the cup in two used 155 Anthems and a new 105 Patriot. I installed new heads, tips, air caps and needles in all of them. Both the Super Detail and General Purpose combinations. I sent an email to both their Product Service and Artist Technician departments on April 13th. I'm still waiting for a reply. Expect to wait to hear from them.

This isn't a dis toward Badger. I realize they may be super swamped. I just want Copsey to know it may take a while to hear from them.
 
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I'm getting bubbles in the cup in two used 155 Anthems and a new 105 Patriot. I installed new heads, tips, air caps and needles in all of them. Both the Super Detail and General Purpose combinations. I sent an email to both their Product Service and Artist Technician departments on April 13th. I'm still waiting for a reply. Expect to wait to hear from them.

This isn't a dis toward Badger. I realize they may be super swamped. I just want Copsey to know it may take a while to hear from them.

Bubbles in the cup on the 155 and 105 is almost always the head base not being snug enough to get the nozzle to seal in the body. I hate trying to crank down on them, so tend to use wax smeared around the nozzle base taper before inserting it into the brush body. I tend to use chapstick or lip balm most often, for ease of application. This all assumes the nozzle is not damaged itself, and you have the correct regulator cap installed for the size components you are using.
 
I finger tightened it as per Badger's recommendation. I don't want to crank on it with pliers. I found some really small O-rings from a lighter that took away the large bubbles. Still got some random small ones.

I bought their beeswax and used it. It stopped the bubbles.

I'm just baffled that there are bubbles in what is a new Patriot (I bought the shell and installed the new parts). The only thing I've sprayed through it is 91% rubbing alcohol.
 
OK, first things first. What set up did you purchase the brush with - fine, medium or large? Is the needle protruding from the front of the nozzle - is it visible at the front of the brush? Is there a visible gap around the nozzle tip, and the regulator cap at the front of the brush? When you move the trigger, doe the needle tip move in and out?
Thanks DaveG

It's a fine - 2020-2F. Needle is visible at the front and moves in and out with the trigger. I can't see any gap round the regulator. If I squirt water into the cup or blow in the top of the cup water comes out of the front of the brush with the needle back but not when using air from the compressor.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/kYb6ndPN9q6jT1dG6

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2eKqpAMHHZRChPbp8
sCQan9fU7urg2uMQ7


kYb6ndPN9q6jT1dG6
 
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how can you tell what regulator cap you have on?

It only came with one needle, nozzle and cap

The needle has a black ball on the end, so is a "fine". They come in medium=white, and large=clear. Sizing the regulator cap and nozzle really helps if you have more than one size to compare with.

It is a bit difficult to tell by looking at the photo's (only the first 2 show up for me) but just trying to judge by the needle protrusion - it is possible that there is a medium nozzle in a fine regulator head, which will not allow enough air to pass in order to draw paint off the needle. Really hard to tell just looking, as there is some a fair amount of tolerance range within a given size.

One thing to try, is with water in the cup, and releasing air with the trigger, loosen the needle chucking nut, and draw the needle back by hand (while releasing air. Looking down into the color cup, draw the needle back until you can see the tip in the color cup - and then push it back in, twisting it very lightly while re-seating it into the nozzle. Keep the air on the whole time! Hopefully there is just some debris in the paint path, and drawing the needle back and re-seating will cause it to be expelled - you will see spray if it happens.

@ how much PSI is your compressor producing? Can you feel any air at the front of the brush?
 
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I finger tightened it as per Badger's recommendation. I don't want to crank on it with pliers. I found some really small O-rings from a lighter that took away the large bubbles. Still got some random small ones.

I bought their beeswax and used it. It stopped the bubbles.

I'm just baffled that there are bubbles in what is a new Patriot (I bought the shell and installed the new parts). The only thing I've sprayed through it is 91% rubbing alcohol.

"Finger tight" is ridiculous on these, unless you are using a good coat of wax on the nozzle taper. The o-rings they use are for cosmetic purposes only, and don't actually have anything to do with sealing. A smaller one MAY allow the cap to screw down a little further without compressing the o-ring, but has little to nothing to do with the nozzle sealing.

If you added an additional one along the nozzle base, without a machined seat, there is nothing to hold it in place, and air will get around it.
 
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The needle has a black ball on the end, so is a "fine". They come in medium=white, and large=clear. Sizing the regulator cap and nozzle really helps if you have more than one size to compare with.

It is a bit difficult to tell by looking at the photo's (only the first 2 show up for me) but just trying to judge by the needle protrusion - it is possible that there is a medium nozzle in a fine regulator head, which will not allow enough air to pass in order to draw paint off the needle. Really hard to tell just looking, as there is some a fair amount of tolerance range within a given size.

One thing to try, is with water in the cup, and releasing air with the trigger, loosen the needle chucking nut, and draw the needle back by hand (while releasing air. Looking down into the color cup, draw the needle back until you can see the tip in the color cup - and then push it back in, twisting it very lightly while re-seating it into the nozzle. Keep the air on the whole time! Hopefully there is just some debris in the paint path, and drawing the needle back and re-seating will cause it to be expelled - you will see spray if it happens.

@ how much PSI is your compressor producing? Can you feel any air at the front of the brush?

Looks like the needle extends 2.5mm from the front of the regulator head.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JM1gPGnayzoen21w6

I tried the procedure you described, nothing came out and there was lots of bubbling. Air comes out the front (always the same pressure of air not dependent on what the needle is doing) and the compressor is at 40psi. If the regulator head was fine and the nozzle was medium and it was blocking the regulator head wouldn't there be no air coming out at all?

If I put water in the cup, and put my mouth round the cup and blow hard, if the needle is withdrawn* water comes out. You have to blow quite hard to get it to come out fast but then it is a very fine nozzle right.

It is a mystery to me. If no air was coming out I could understand but its like the air isn't enough to pull the water through.

(*if the needle is in nothing comes out)
 
Unfortunately, on these particular brushes, you can not tell a lot by JUST looking at the way the pieces fit together. The two brushes pictured here are both set up with "fine" sets of parts, using the same part numbes to complete both brushes.

Are you getting bubbles in the cup all the time while trying to get it to work, or just when you slipped the needle back?

sotar heads2.jpg
 
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