Clearcoat for Golden high flow

[beginner-James]

Good afternoon all
I was just wondering what is the best Clearcoat to use with Golden High Flow transparent Acrylic paint on Syn paper and clay board.

I have a cheap airbrush I could run this through with a .5mm needle and a .3mm needle also what would the clearcoat be reduced with.

I know the above question are silly question but I really don't have a clue
Beginner-James

 

[DaveG]

I have used acrylic varnish, particularly Liquitex for many years. I've used it over about every brand of acrylic AB paint at one time or another, without issue. I mostly stick with Matte or Satin. I have recently started using Createx's new clear coats as well, with very good results. Again, Matte or Satin for me. I work mainly on canvas, synthetic papers, and illustration boards.

For the longest time I used a .35 Eclipse by reducing the varnish just a tad with plain water. I now use a .5 Creos GSI, but still prefer to add just a bit of water to the mix.

 

[beginner-James]

thanks Dave I will try Liquitex Satin with my Eclipse then for paint pal

Beginner-James

 

[Robbyrockett2]

I use the same on paper and IB but I use the gloss. Comes out more like semi-gloss IMO though.
I dont use golden but i wouldnt expect Liquitex to have a compatibility issue with anything ever, its about as neutral as school glue.

 

[markjthomson]

I use the liquitex for a while but to be honest I don't bother clear coating mine now... they aren't in the sun.

 

[Robbyrockett2]

I use the liquitex for a while but to be honest I don't bother clear coating mine now... they aren't in the sun.

I like the pop, and the ability to wipe the dust off without smearing it into your colors. Im not certain liquitex even has any UV protection...?

 

[Leakyvalve]

I have recently started using Createx's new clear coats as well, with very good results. Again, Matte or Satin for me. I work mainly on canvas, synthetic papers, and illustration boards.

Any chance you used the gloss yet? I'm on the fence and a couple demos I seen on youtube didn't impress me because they laid it down pretty heavy, but it was super orange peely when the light hit it just right. Yeah it was glossy straight on, but from the sides it was terrible looking.

 

[Leakyvalve]

I use the liquitex for a while but to be honest I don't bother clear coating mine now... they aren't in the sun.

One of the benefits of clear, is it hides any trailing. I don't know what the official term would be, but its when you can see the exact path an airbrusher used to fill in a background or large solid color. Especially if they use a small airbrush and a large background. They don't blend, they just play a game of Snake (80's video game).

 

[DaveG]

Any chance you used the gloss yet? I'm on the fence and a couple demos I seen on youtube didn't impress me because they laid it down pretty heavy, but it was super orange peely when the light hit it just right. Yeah it was glossy straight on, but from the sides it was terrible looking.

No, I have not tried the gloss yet. With the Satin, I really have no problem with the way it lays down. If hey had orange peel, I would think that was their technique more than anything.

I use the clear coat for exactly the reason you posted in your next post, in that it ties everything together. Not every color dries with the same sheen, or I tend to mix brands, so clear coating gives everything a uniform finish.

 

[Leakyvalve]

No, I have not tried the gloss yet. With the Satin, I really have no problem with the way it lays down. If hey had orange peel, I would think that was their technique more than anything.

I use the clear coat for exactly the reason you posted in your next post, in that it ties everything together. Not every color dries with the same sheen, or I tend to mix brands, so clear coating gives everything a uniform finish.

Thanks for the info. Here's that video if you're interested. Tell me if you see the same thing or not.

 

[Robbyrockett2]

I was looking for that video a while back, thanks!
1:51 it looks horrible, but i think thats just where its beginning to dry and isnt even yet.
1:55 yeah it sure isnt a deep gloss or anything....I think thats a double tube fluorescent light....hard to tell in the reflection. Even if its a diffused panel thats still pretty bad....Id call it semi-gloss. .
I dont think its orange peel though....maybe...idk hard to tell in that video but either way its just not a glossy deep shine whatsoever. Even bad orange peel with a shiny clear would show that light more crisp , it would just show the OP pattern real well.
My guess is it comes out a lot like liquitex gloss, which is more like semi gloss and also has...IDK how to describe it....almost a glittery tooth rather than a wet look.

 

[DaveG]

Thanks for the info. Here's that video if you're interested. Tell me if you see the same thing or not.

yeah I don't know what the deal with that is - the panel they show standing up looks really bad with the gloss, but the one they show laying down (afterwards) looks much better.

 

[jord001]

I do like to coat my work after its finished to even out everything. I usually give my pics a coat of 1k laquer BUT it stinks the place out for a few hours. I have some Golden GAC 900 which is clear but for textiles. I would like something "water based" too that I could clear my work with so I will be watching this thread.

Lee

 

[crewchief227]

If you used acrylics create a barrier layer first. I'm a fine art painter, and varnishing is a crucial step. You can use any acrylic base or medium for this task. I personally finish using Golden Paint products so first I make up a sprayable acrylic medium by diluting Golden Soft Gel Gloss Medium 1:1 with water. Making light coats I'll spray 2-3 layers. Let dry for at least 24 hours cause the next step requires mineral spirits. Then using Golden MSA Varnish & Golden MSA Solvent I again dilute the varnish into a sprayable consistency. On a flat surface, in hopefully a dust free area, spray 2 light coats. Again let dry for 24 hours. For smaller pieces I use my .5mm iwata HP-TH, and for larger paintings I use my iwata W101 with a 1.0mm nozzle. Use the MSA Solvent to spray thru when finished, but don't end there, afterwards breakdown and clean your brushes per usual. I have finished work with a brush as well, but since this is a delicate process I have a $90 sable 3" flat that is designed just for finishing.

If you get runs don't panic, that's what the barrier layer is for, you can use MSA Solvent to reactivate and remove the varnish. That's why this process is so critical in the fine art world where you might have a conservator come and remove yellowing varnish or repair any paint. If they have to repair or refinish the barrier layer makes it so they can repair a painting without having to touch the "actual" painting that the artist did. A word of caution though don't use 'odorless' mineral spirits, they put in wax and remove the harsher solvents that make it soluble with the varnish. You can tell if you're using a weak solvent if the varnish turns cloudy, or has waxy chunks in it. To shortcut some of this you can buy MSA varnish pre reduced in a spray can, but I personally like having more control over the process, and having pure solvent on hand just in case a problem occurs, like runs, or a piece of lint drying on the surface, in which case I can dab a qtip in solvent reactivate that little spot, remove the lint, and have the varnish re level.