Colouring In ?

The Createx is too thick to go through a 0.35 nozzle and you need alot of pressure. For my Com-art, I just heat set it afterwards. Will see what will happen after a few washes.

What about Golden paints? Here's a bit I got from their site "For Applying GOLDEN Acrylics to Fabric, GOLDEN Fluid Acrylics blended with GOLDEN Airbrush Medium yields a paint system that is very durable in normal laundering, and that does not require heat-setting (however, ironing will increase performance)."
 
you must assume that you must always start from a clear color and cover with darker colors.
In your case have the best base white, tries to make a layer from right vesrso left, with opening of the needle constant for the entire surface, then, make another layer from the top downwards, until reaching the red uniform.
 
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Obviously this technique is valid only for the cover, complete, to make shadow must not cross the lines;)
 
The Createx is too thick to go through a 0.35 nozzle and you need alot of pressure. For my Com-art, I just heat set it afterwards. Will see what will happen after a few washes.

What about Golden paints? Here's a bit I got from their site "For Applying GOLDEN Acrylics to Fabric, GOLDEN Fluid Acrylics blended with GOLDEN Airbrush Medium yields a paint system that is very durable in normal laundering, and that does not require heat-setting (however, ironing will increase performance)."
I have shot Createx through a .35 with no problems running anywhere from 25 to 40 PSI on textiles, I do reduce it with the proper reducer made by Createx But still get great coverage.
Problem I have found with Com-art is it is too thin right out of the bottle for the larger needle sizes at anything over 20PSI, Com-art was designed for Microns. When you buy a new Micron it comes with a test sheet that show how well it shoots , and sometimes you will have some color still in the cup. Iwata test all their Micron with Com-art. So I am sure you are getting better flow from a paint system that was designed for a .18/.20/.23 needle .
 
Well, I just tried Createx Classic. Black out of the bottle using my new out of the box Badger 155 Anthem. The Badger bottle fitting fitted the createx bottle.
Substrate was a childs Red 100% Cotton T-Shirt made by Shooting Stars. No prep work whatsover for the t.
I have the Etac 2050 (Why do I keep claling it Grecian 2000?) to reduce but chose not to do any reduction/thinning whatsoever either.
At 60 psi I coloured in a Square perfectly, however I notice there is overspray around that squars, and then I coloured another square at 30 psi, oddly no overspray that I can see.
Both perfect but will have to wait till they dry as that will be the true test.
I then got my new spectra tex Neon Pink, and shot that straight out of the bottle at 60psi around the 60black square and at 30psi around the 30 square.
I can see bleed around the pink, of course this could be peculiar to spraying on red and it has yet to dry.

I also have an Etac private stock white which I will try another day.

So far with this test it would appear that the problems do not all lie with me but I really need to get some hands on tuition and feedback from an expert.
 
Well, I just tried Createx Classic. Black out of the bottle using my new out of the box Badger 155 Anthem. The Badger bottle fitting fitted the createx bottle.
Substrate was a childs Red 100% Cotton T-Shirt made by Shooting Stars. No prep work whatsover for the t.
I have the Etac 2050 (Why do I keep claling it Grecian 2000?) to reduce but chose not to do any reduction/thinning whatsoever either.
At 60 psi I coloured in a Square perfectly, however I notice there is overspray around that squars, and then I coloured another square at 30 psi, oddly no overspray that I can see.
Both perfect but will have to wait till they dry as that will be the true test.
I then got my new spectra tex Neon Pink, and shot that straight out of the bottle at 60psi around the 60black square and at 30psi around the 30 square.
I can see bleed around the pink, of course this could be peculiar to spraying on red and it has yet to dry.

I also have an Etac private stock white which I will try another day.

So far with this test it would appear that the problems do not all lie with me but I really need to get some hands on tuition and feedback from an expert.

Bleeding will always be problem on fabric, especially with colours around black, it's all about how well you mask or shield the areas you don't wish to paint or run into other colours, It might be an idea to begin with your colours first, let them dry and then do your black.

Your going the right way by experimenting, that will save you a whole lot of grief in the future, and as you said find out what your minimum pressure can be to minimise over-spray, but as you've seen in the vids posted here, even the experts use extensive masking.

Neon colours rely mostly on the white underneath to make them pop, just like candies, so it's important to keep these areas clean of anything else.
 
Have you tried wicked on fabric? I just painted my first T and used wicked and it worked really well. I didn't reduce it as much as I usually would, and turned up the pressure a bit to compensate and it worked fine. I did it on a black shirt and put down a white base. I should have put down another layer or two of white as I think it muddied the colour a bit, but I'll know for next time. Anyway just thought it might be an alternative to what you use, as it's pretty veratile. I use it for auto work, but it's cool that I can do the odd T if I like.
 
I have only just bought my first bottle of createx classic :)
I will have to save up a bit for wicked
 
good luck tony, hope it works out for ya, got some good advice there
 
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