Createx issues

I sent Createx an email. Maybe they can shed some light on the subject.
you wish. I am still waiting for their mail which was send like 8 months ago... It was mail in which I asked why their colors are different from each batch. They don't like questions about quality.

edit: actually one year, I went to check:
https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/rgb-cmyk-airbrush-rgb.19872/page-9
wicked-mail-jpg.52444
 
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you wish. I am still waiting for their mail which was send like 8 months ago... It was mail in which I asked why their colors are different from each batch. They don't like questions about quality.

edit: actually one year, I went to check:
https://www.airbrushforum.org/threads/rgb-cmyk-airbrush-rgb.19872/page-9
wicked-mail-jpg.52444

I’m not familiar with colors not being consistent. I haven’t come across that. I can’t help but wonder about user error. I should probably shake my bottles more than I do. I’ve heard importance placed on shaking them well. “If it has a mixing ball, shake it.” That’s weird you didn’t get a response. I have emailed a couple times and got quick responses. But it wasn’t for a complaint. Hopefully my last email doesn’t sound much like a complaint and more like technical question.
 
They were quick to act when I spoke to them about a bottle of 4030 that was supper thick and unopened. Almost certainly had frozen during shipping. They replaced it very quickly.


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I usually get a quick response from them once in a while I have to wait a few days maybe because they are looking for an answer.
Funny how my bottle of 5618 states it is restorer and not a cleaner and my bottle of 4008 states it is cleaner . But Craig's video states it is reversed LOL . I think Createx has switched a lot of thing around in the past few years.
I guess I will have to take a picture of my bottle of restorer tonight and ask Createx what the deal is with that .
 
I usually get a quick response from them once in a while I have to wait a few days maybe because they are looking for an answer.
Funny how my bottle of 5618 states it is restorer and not a cleaner and my bottle of 4008 states it is cleaner . But Craig's video states it is reversed LOL . I think Createx has switched a lot of thing around in the past few years.
I guess I will have to take a picture of my bottle of restorer tonight and ask Createx what the deal is with that .

Changes have definitely been made over the years. The addition of several additives, real candy dyes, etc.

3FD3CDF6-96AE-4776-B856-4C1A50E9287D.jpeg
 
maybe they don't take seriously a guy with broken english. I should ask someone to ask them instead of me...
 
Changes have definitely been made over the years. The addition of several additives, real candy dyes, etc.

View attachment 58412
That is for sure .But I am mainly talking about them changing the 5618 restorer from 5618 to the 4004 cleaner number . No wonder while typing in Createx 5618 restorer it kept bringing up cleaner.
Maybe someday they will get their act together I mean they have came a long way in the past 10 years so who knows.
 
That is for sure .But I am mainly talking about them changing the 5618 restorer from 5618 to the 4004 cleaner number . No wonder while typing in Createx 5618 restorer it kept bringing up cleaner.
Maybe someday they will get their act together I mean they have came a long way in the past 10 years so who knows.
Thats because the number for the restorer is 4008 and 5618 is the cleaner...Never spray 4008, its only for soaking but 5618 is ok to spray and now they are saying 5618 can be used for light slow dry reducing too....
 
Thank you for contacting Createx Colors. Please find attached tech data sheets to 4011 and 4012 Reducers.


Illustration Colors (IL) are designed to break-down a bit when reduced with 4012. Long-term storage of IL over-reduced with 4012 is not recommended as 4012 promotes curing, which in IL will create seeding in the pigments over time.

IL were designed for use straight from the bottle with a Micron / 0.18mm tip-size. While many artists over-reduce IL, it’s not needed. Try reducing 5% – 10% 4012, allow the mix 10 minutes to acclimate and break-down surface tension of the water before spraying. The 10-minute acclimation before spraying makes a big difference. IL’s resin is much different compared to Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors, whose acrylics are more resilient to over-reducing. IL is a softer resin which gives excellent performance for low psi airbrushing through small tips without a grainy over-spray. The trade-off is its not desinged for long-term sotrage when mixed with 4012, especially when 4012 added in excess amounts. Again, IL was desinged straight from the bottle through a Micron without reduction; although most every artists reduces some.

Also, adding 4012 to paint in the airbrush cup and shaking will seed the paint every time. Reduce in a mixing cup. Try just adding 5% and see how it works after 10 minutes acclimation. If a little more is needed, try upping to 10%.


Adding 20 – 30% 4012 to IL Colors can seed the pigments. Another way to improve the flow and low psi spray performance of IL without adding too much 4012 is to add 4030 Balancing Clear.


We think an ideal mix is IL Colors with 10% 4030 Balancing Clear, then 10% 4012. Mix (do not shake) and allow 10 minutes to sit before spraying.


For a complimentary catalog, please email us your shipping address and let us know if we may be of any further service.


Best Regards,


Createx Colors

Customer Service
 
Interesting and great information. Thanks for sharing what you found out from them.
Oh I was wrong my restorer is 5619 which according to the letter I received back from Createx was changed to follow more a long the lines of their reducers about 2 years ago. So now the restorer is 4004.
 
Thank you for contacting Createx Colors. Please find attached tech data sheets to 4011 and 4012 Reducers.


Illustration Colors (IL) are designed to break-down a bit when reduced with 4012. Long-term storage of IL over-reduced with 4012 is not recommended as 4012 promotes curing, which in IL will create seeding in the pigments over time.

IL were designed for use straight from the bottle with a Micron / 0.18mm tip-size. While many artists over-reduce IL, it’s not needed. Try reducing 5% – 10% 4012, allow the mix 10 minutes to acclimate and break-down surface tension of the water before spraying. The 10-minute acclimation before spraying makes a big difference. IL’s resin is much different compared to Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors, whose acrylics are more resilient to over-reducing. IL is a softer resin which gives excellent performance for low psi airbrushing through small tips without a grainy over-spray. The trade-off is its not desinged for long-term sotrage when mixed with 4012, especially when 4012 added in excess amounts. Again, IL was desinged straight from the bottle through a Micron without reduction; although most every artists reduces some.

Also, adding 4012 to paint in the airbrush cup and shaking will seed the paint every time. Reduce in a mixing cup. Try just adding 5% and see how it works after 10 minutes acclimation. If a little more is needed, try upping to 10%.


Adding 20 – 30% 4012 to IL Colors can seed the pigments. Another way to improve the flow and low psi spray performance of IL without adding too much 4012 is to add 4030 Balancing Clear.


We think an ideal mix is IL Colors with 10% 4030 Balancing Clear, then 10% 4012. Mix (do not shake) and allow 10 minutes to sit before spraying.


For a complimentary catalog, please email us your shipping address and let us know if we may be of any further service.


Best Regards,


Createx Colors

Customer Service
That’s good info. I have had bad experiences with 3 different bottles of 4030, so I wish Createx wouldn’t make that the “go to, all purpose, problem solver”. I will try a new bottle from a different supplier before I finally give up with it lol. I guess I’m lucky in that I haven’t had any seeding issues with Illustration colours even when over reducing them.


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What is this "over reduce" everybody is talking about. The only time it goes "over" is when you "break" it. When there is more reducer than binder.
"Straight from the bottle" stated again. But at what pressure. Anything can spray straight out of the bottle at a high pressure.
In the beginning of Illustration colours they said you should let it stand for 2-3 minutes. Then it went to 5 minutes. Now it is 10 minutes. Who's got time to wait for that?
 
What is this "over reduce" everybody is talking about. The only time it goes "over" is when you "break" it. When there is more reducer than binder.
"Straight from the bottle" stated again. But at what pressure. Anything can spray straight out of the bottle at a high pressure.
In the beginning of Illustration colours they said you should let it stand for 2-3 minutes. Then it went to 5 minutes. Now it is 10 minutes. Who's got time to wait for that?
Yes Steve Leahy says he lets his stand for 10 minutes too. Yet Gerald Mendez says he just mixes it well for about a minute. I think it is all due to where you live and how the paint reacts for your area.
 
What is this "over reduce" everybody is talking about. The only time it goes "over" is when you "break" it. When there is more reducer than binder.
"Straight from the bottle" stated again. But at what pressure. Anything can spray straight out of the bottle at a high pressure.
In the beginning of Illustration colours they said you should let it stand for 2-3 minutes. Then it went to 5 minutes. Now it is 10 minutes. Who's got time to wait for that?
As far as I’m aware “over reduced” usually refers to anything over 1:1 or 100%. Going by % can be difficult and doesn’t work all that well when used in the context of water based when airbrushing as it is often reduced more than that. But the terminology is a bit of a carry over from Urethane and Spray gun use.
This is only my understanding and isn’t meant to be presented as fact.


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"Straight from the bottle" stated again. But at what pressure.


Dru uses Illustration straight from the bottle. We did in class. I know he reduces with water sometimes. The air regulators in class are set between 20-25 psi at each station and you have Mac valve on your hose. But remember, Dru uses microns for his classes. 22 psi in a micron is not the same as in other brushes. 22 psi in my Eclipse will blow paper off the table.

Personally, I fight the equipment less if I use more reducer. I use 10-20% reducer for full coverage and at least 1:1 for detail if not 1 drop of paint and 5-8 drops reducer.
 
@Mr.Micron this video talks about some of the changes Createx has gone through. How auto air uses wicked resin now, and wicked will inherit auto air colors when auto air becomes acrylic urethane soon.
 
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