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Crystal pattern painting method / Custom paint & candy painting with urea fertilizer
- Thread starter huskystafford
- Start date
I should put that in color the world? Move it if I posted in the wrong section. Thank you.
Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
I'm not sure urea works with WB paints.
The effect solution is made using water and the effect itself is based on creating crystals when water is evaporated. If you add water again, the crystals are destroyed and the effect is gone. The urea comes into dissolved state again and it may mix with WB paint applied over it, thus this effect may not appear the way you'd expect, if it ever appears with WB paints (thoughts aloud). I know this effect works for urethanes.
The effect solution is made using water and the effect itself is based on creating crystals when water is evaporated. If you add water again, the crystals are destroyed and the effect is gone. The urea comes into dissolved state again and it may mix with WB paint applied over it, thus this effect may not appear the way you'd expect, if it ever appears with WB paints (thoughts aloud). I know this effect works for urethanes.
MarcosD
Detail Decepticon!
That is why you need an intercoat clear before the wb candy!
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Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
How the effect is applied.
1. basecoat, the colour of future frosty effect
2. application of urea solution
3. waiting for water evaporating. At this stage frosty crystals appear. Solt remains dry on the surface creating crystals pattern. This layer works as the mask.
4. different to the 1st paint layer next colour is applied. It's going to be "background" colour. After it's dry urea crystal layer with the paint over it (backgrounf colour) is removed with wet rag (the mask is removed).
5. clearcoating and it's done.
The question is on which stage to use intercoat clear and what for?
I'm just liking posts and learning 
MarcosD
Detail Decepticon!
In between 3 and 4, a thin layer enough to protect it before wb paint in 4.
If you use thin layers of wb paint in 4, a let it dry before a wet coat, do u think that the salt and soap will dilute anyways?[emoji848] it is not that easy to dissolve dish soap once is dry!
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Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
Let's think. My brain starts slowly to boil
So, we apply intercoat clear over salt pattern. I beleive, you're talking about WB intercoat clear from, let's say, Createx. Doesn't matter. What matters is water in that clear.
What we have. Transparent layer over first colour and salt. Intercoat lies over the colour and salt, bond with that colour and the salt. Right?
This layer adds some thickness to first layer of paint, what does it give, what's the reason? More important is what happens to the salt layer when WB transparent paint is applied over it. Can't understand what it gives us.
OK, the next is 4th step where we apply background colour to the previous layers, resulting such layers: basecoat, salt, intercoat clear, background colour.
Important here is what we have over the salt. We have thick layer of paint material that will be harder to remove with water. Salt works as water removable mask and we have now more harder removable mask. Besides, I have no idea what happens to the salt layer on the stage of WB intercoat clear application.
When do we apply dish soap?
Things become to be kinda very complicated
But they are simple when using urethanes.I do not use any WB paint. Someone using them and who's tried this effect with WB explain the process! My brain can explode thinking over it, not having tried it
MarcosD
Detail Decepticon!
1) You can see the use of dish soap in the video min +5.
2) Let's think a little, in step 4 you use a urethane paint as the backgound and then you use a wet rag to get rid of the undesire paint, so, you can use a thing layer of urethane intercoat clear to protect the salt (if you are concern about it disolving with the WB paint), and then the WB color paint as backgound and finally a wet rag, wich is the difference with using only a urethane paint as backgound? none.
3) I didn't use this trick but use one similar when doing models where you use hair spray(water soluble) for chipping effect, you can use water base paint over it withou any issue and then use a very wet sponge to get rid of it after the paint completely dried.
2) Let's think a little, in step 4 you use a urethane paint as the backgound and then you use a wet rag to get rid of the undesire paint, so, you can use a thing layer of urethane intercoat clear to protect the salt (if you are concern about it disolving with the WB paint), and then the WB color paint as backgound and finally a wet rag, wich is the difference with using only a urethane paint as backgound? none.
3) I didn't use this trick but use one similar when doing models where you use hair spray(water soluble) for chipping effect, you can use water base paint over it withou any issue and then use a very wet sponge to get rid of it after the paint completely dried.
So sorry guys, I didn't think about this before. I just had a light bulb moment and went to check if there is a video description. I was lucky. Here it is, this may help:
*************************************************************************
I experimented with the "Crystal Effect / CFX" painting method, which custom painters in Asia have been using vegetable fertilizer for over 5 years. (Also known as Crystal Pattern Paint / Crystal Pattern Paint / Mutant Crystal / Crystal FX / Rectra Finish / Crystal Paint etc.) I also paint candy with gold and green candy colors. The method of painting and the mixing ratio of materials are as follows. ※ Here, the fertilizer solution is called CFX solution.
1: Before testing Crystal Effect (CFX), paint the under color with oil-based paint silver and finish with a clear top coat.
2: When the clear is completely dry, grind with a # 400 to # 800 finish until the gloss on the painted surface is completely gone.
3: Dilute the dishwashing detergent 20 times and wash away dirt and sebum on the painted surface.
4: Apply CFX solution evenly to the completely dried painted surface.
5: The time until CFX solution crystallizes varies depending on the temperature and humidity, but it crystallizes in about 5 to 20 minutes.
6: After crystallization has stopped, leave for about 1 hour to evaporate the water.
7: Paint the whole of oil-based paint black. At this time, the extent to which the background is seen through is an appropriate amount.
8: If the black dries, use a water resistant paper # 2000 or sponge to wash away the surface roughness with water. It is gentle to the extent that you stroke the surface.
9: Once again, evaporate the moisture on the painted surface and paint the candy color of the oil-based paint. Do not use water-based paint at this time.
10: Finished with a clear top coat. The material and blend ratio of the CFX solution is the volume ratio. [100% urea fertilizer: 100% warm water: 1% to 2% dishwashing detergent] The crystal pattern changes depending on the blend ratio. Find a compelling combination yourself. However, there are cases that require attention. Urea is easy to absorb moisture. Therefore, urea does not crystallize on wet days and rainy seasons ”with high humidity”.
*************************************************************************
I experimented with the "Crystal Effect / CFX" painting method, which custom painters in Asia have been using vegetable fertilizer for over 5 years. (Also known as Crystal Pattern Paint / Crystal Pattern Paint / Mutant Crystal / Crystal FX / Rectra Finish / Crystal Paint etc.) I also paint candy with gold and green candy colors. The method of painting and the mixing ratio of materials are as follows. ※ Here, the fertilizer solution is called CFX solution.
1: Before testing Crystal Effect (CFX), paint the under color with oil-based paint silver and finish with a clear top coat.
2: When the clear is completely dry, grind with a # 400 to # 800 finish until the gloss on the painted surface is completely gone.
3: Dilute the dishwashing detergent 20 times and wash away dirt and sebum on the painted surface.
4: Apply CFX solution evenly to the completely dried painted surface.
5: The time until CFX solution crystallizes varies depending on the temperature and humidity, but it crystallizes in about 5 to 20 minutes.
6: After crystallization has stopped, leave for about 1 hour to evaporate the water.
7: Paint the whole of oil-based paint black. At this time, the extent to which the background is seen through is an appropriate amount.
8: If the black dries, use a water resistant paper # 2000 or sponge to wash away the surface roughness with water. It is gentle to the extent that you stroke the surface.
9: Once again, evaporate the moisture on the painted surface and paint the candy color of the oil-based paint. Do not use water-based paint at this time.
10: Finished with a clear top coat. The material and blend ratio of the CFX solution is the volume ratio. [100% urea fertilizer: 100% warm water: 1% to 2% dishwashing detergent] The crystal pattern changes depending on the blend ratio. Find a compelling combination yourself. However, there are cases that require attention. Urea is easy to absorb moisture. Therefore, urea does not crystallize on wet days and rainy seasons ”with high humidity”.
Last edited:
Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
You're a bit mistaken. We don't need to protect the salt. With the salt we protect the basecoat from the next colour we're going to apply. I think, we've settled this question. The difference between WB and urethane here is that WB contains water which affects appeared crystals (salt at least comes into dissolved state again partially. I have no idea how it will affect the pattern and further actions. Urethane paint by no way affect the crystals, it just sits over the solt layer. Then we remove this layer with water and pad, some use flat sandpapers, scothbrite pads or mirlon pads.
OMG!
Are you seriously going to use oil-based paint? To use "dishwashing detergent 20 times and wash away dirt and sebum on the painted surface"? We normally use wax and grease removers to clean the surface
I've read youtube translation of the video description. That is ridiculous to read. It's better youtube wouldn't switch that translation. If we would learn from such videos, we'll go very far away
It's better to leave that video alone.Here's normal video. You can also view other linked to this one.
Nothing weird is done in this video, no oil-based paints or dishwashing detergents, just normal products. Normal way of application is explained.
One questions is how to get proper ratio for urea in water solution of it.
I've got somewhere printed instructions for this effect. I don't even remember for how long I have it and where I've gotten it from, as I remember it's in English. Maybe there's urea ratio in that instruction. Will find it and find out.
I saw in other videos from Russian speaking youtube that guy uses infrared system to speed up the evaporating process. By changing the temperature (speed) of evaporating it's possible to get different patterns.
Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
Yeah!
If you'd read what auto translation gave me... no, it's better not to read thatBTW, found printed instructions I mentioned above. I would not like to type those sheets
What's maximum resolution I could post? Moderators would you? I'll make scans and post them here. Maybe, I'll find the file with the text, but I've got doubts about that.
Nada
Air-Valve Autobot!
I have a video on this process. And making the Urea mix.
As for when to apply intercoat, or solvent etc There is only a need for the alternating color to be solvent based. No other time is it necessary (provided your base paint can withstand getting wet)
As for waterbased directly over the urea? Not really doable. Yes you can dry spray it and it sort of would work. But dry spray will cause an adhesion issue. On a coating that already requires a pretty heavy mil thickness that is highly not advisable.
So your choices over the urea are going to be your contrast color in solvent. That could be a tinted intercoat , or an opaque solvent. After that use what you will. Although a solvent with high solids for the final clear is going to have the best covering for the ridges.
As for when to apply intercoat, or solvent etc There is only a need for the alternating color to be solvent based. No other time is it necessary (provided your base paint can withstand getting wet)
As for waterbased directly over the urea? Not really doable. Yes you can dry spray it and it sort of would work. But dry spray will cause an adhesion issue. On a coating that already requires a pretty heavy mil thickness that is highly not advisable.
So your choices over the urea are going to be your contrast color in solvent. That could be a tinted intercoat , or an opaque solvent. After that use what you will. Although a solvent with high solids for the final clear is going to have the best covering for the ridges.
Vladimir
Detail Decepticon!
@Nada it's the best video I've seen to the date
@MarcosD have you found the answers in this video?
Tried to find the file, but there was no luck. But good news, I've found the link bookmarked. The thread was started there back in the beginning of 2007. Twelve years ago.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?1028-Making-a-crystal-effect-solution
Copypasting the info here for the reason sometimes forums stop their existing.
Full text.
"Making a crystal effect solution.
I know this has been kind of put in another post but here is my experience with the crystal paint effect.
ok, the crystal solution can be bought from alsa corp but it works out at £80 a quart to get it over here but will no doubt be cheaper for you guys. For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
There are 4 ingredients to the solution.
Water
Urea
ammonia (not so sure if this is an additive or just present in the urea)
neocryl (an acrylic copolymer used as some kind of wetting agent, it is in the form of neocryl bt-175 and this is made from 58% water 40% acrylic copolymer and 2% sodium lauryl sulphate(this is common in nearly all liquid soaps,used partly as a thickener. Anyway, not something that can be bought over the counter so i have looked for alternatives).
Water from your tap (i will try bottled water and deionised water as well), ammonia from hardware store and Urea from a cleaning supply store or maybe a garden center. Urea is also present in cleaning agents as well as fertiliser and is easily available in prill form (small balls/granules)
Im sure that where you get your Urea from will supply ammonia.
Now you need to create a saturated solution. To do this i got a pint of water and added the urea untill it stopped disolving in the water. Then i heated the solution in a pot and added more urea until it stopped disolving. About room temp is all that is needed. I found that if too hot the urea will decompose and will not work. No point in adding urea to boiling water as it takes up to 7kg per liter and most of it will reform when the solution cools. I believe that the re crystalised urea will be a better form with less impurities, maybe better to use but i'm not sure. At 20*c water will take about 1kg per liter of urea.
This was good enough a process to create a saturated solution(a chemist might have the right way to do it, so feel free to inform us )
Ok that is the crystal solution ready but if you pour this over fresh dry paint it will bead on the surface. To stop this we add the ammonia, this seems to act as a wetting agent to break water tension and allow the solution to pool over the surface and stick a tiny bit better. I will experiment with other surfactants, washing up liquid,washing powder. This is why i think the alsa stuff has the neocryl bt-175
I used 70% crystal solution to 30% ammonia. This worked for me but experiment for yourself as you may need more or less ammomia. It does seem to take longer to dry with more ammonia. Good, bad, i will let you know later. EDIT: It does not require a lot of surfactant maybe only 5ml per 100ml.
Now apply your base coat, this will be the main colour of the finish depending if you candy or not.
once dry there are a number of ways to proceed.
you can clear over the base as this gives a good surface to key up heavily in many directions. This way you can almost control the forms of the crystal.
Or you can key/scuff up the base coat itself OR you can just leave the base coat. It is up to your self to try this out.
Now apply the the crystal, i just pour it on as it is cheap as if you make it your self £2 ish a pint. Others use a spray bottle to apply it. Either way is good. A thin layer of solution will give a thin crystal form and a thick layer will give a thick crystal form.
Now leave to air dry in a warm room for large finger fromations or force dry for tighter smaller formations. I prefer air dry.
As it dries you will see the crystals form, quite cool to watch the first few times.
Let it dry out fully about 15 mins to an hour depending on the temp and thickness of application.
Now it is time for the contrast coat, i use black as it seems to be more dramatic. This MUST be applied in a light dusting fashion, NO heavy application as it will melt the crytsal and make it difficult to remove later.
1 light coat will give a shallow 3d contrast and a few light coats will give a deeper 3d contrast. For the best result i found that NOT applying even coats of black is best for giving varing depth of finish. Once the top/contrast(black for me) coat has dried you can then remove the crystals by washing with water and a soft cloth, try not to rub to hard. If the crystal is being stubborn to remove then LIGHTLY wet sand with 1500/2000 grit.
Now that it is clear of crystal and dried you can apply your top coats be they candys, pearls or just clear coat.
EDIT: Raising the point of safety when mixing chemicals, I believe that you should only attempt this if you have researched the materials you are using and have COMMON SENSE I doubt the mixes i'm using are explosive or toxic (other than usual ammonia vapour and spay) but remember to be careful.
Urea reacts with calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite to form the explosive nitrogen trichloride. It is incompatible with sodium nitrite, gallium perchlorate, strong oxidizing agents (permanganate, dichromate, nitrate, chlorine), phosphorus pentachloride, nitrosyl perchlorate, titanium tetrachloride and chromyl chloride. PLEASE AVOID THESE WHEN MIXING WITH WATER!!!!!
It does contain ammonia which smells bad and is irritable . Ammonia solutions should not be mixed with halogens( fluorine (F), chlorine (Cl), bromine (Br), iodine (I), astatine (At), as toxic and/or explosive products are formed. The urea/ammonia mix is good for your plants........but if for some reason you mix it with bleach (one of the 1st things i thought of doing
just a quick note that the crazer effect that alsa sell can be replicated using fine rubbing compound over a base coat then contrast coated washed down and top coated/cleared
Might not be as good as the crazer but well worth the effort to try. Another cool effect is the marbilizer from HOK (house of kolor)
Note that all of theses effects need excrement loads of clear coats to build up the layers as they are tactlie finishes. Lots of clear allow you to wet sand and polish and create fantastic and unique paint effects.
Another note is that the crystal finish is organic in style and almost impossible to create the exact same effect. So it is best to do large adjacent panels at the same time as the air flow and temp will be the same.
Any way perhaps that will make it easier for ppl to grasp if they are just browsing the site.
Sorry, for once no pics
So, if someone will be playing with the ratios and different components it would be cool if you'd share you results here
MarcosD
Detail Decepticon!
Yep, you can use intercoat as i was saying[emoji1305]@Nada it's the best video I've seen to the date
@MarcosD have you found the answers in this video?
Tried to find the file, but there was no luck. But good news, I've found the link bookmarked. The thread was started there back in the beginning of 2007. Twelve years ago.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?1028-Making-a-crystal-effect-solution
Copypasting the info here for the reason sometimes forums stop their existing.
Full text.
"Making a crystal effect solution.
I know this has been kind of put in another post but here is my experience with the crystal paint effect.
ok, the crystal solution can be bought from alsa corp but it works out at £80 a quart to get it over here but will no doubt be cheaper for you guys. For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
There are 4 ingredients to the solution.
Water
Urea
ammonia (not so sure if this is an additive or just present in the urea)
neocryl (an acrylic copolymer used as some kind of wetting agent, it is in the form of neocryl bt-175 and this is made from 58% water 40% acrylic copolymer and 2% sodium lauryl sulphate(this is common in nearly all liquid soaps,used partly as a thickener. Anyway, not something that can be bought over the counter so i have looked for alternatives).
Water from your tap (i will try bottled water and deionised water as well), ammonia from hardware store and Urea from a cleaning supply store or maybe a garden center. Urea is also present in cleaning agents as well as fertiliser and is easily available in prill form (small balls/granules)
Im sure that where you get your Urea from will supply ammonia.
Now you need to create a saturated solution. To do this i got a pint of water and added the urea untill it stopped disolving in the water. Then i heated the solution in a pot and added more urea until it stopped disolving. About room temp is all that is needed. I found that if too hot the urea will decompose and will not work. No point in adding urea to boiling water as it takes up to 7kg per liter and most of it will reform when the solution cools. I believe that the re crystalised urea will be a better form with less impurities, maybe better to use but i'm not sure. At 20*c water will take about 1kg per liter of urea.
This was good enough a process to create a saturated solution(a chemist might have the right way to do it, so feel free to inform us )
Ok that is the crystal solution ready but if you pour this over fresh dry paint it will bead on the surface. To stop this we add the ammonia, this seems to act as a wetting agent to break water tension and allow the solution to pool over the surface and stick a tiny bit better. I will experiment with other surfactants, washing up liquid,washing powder. This is why i think the alsa stuff has the neocryl bt-175
I used 70% crystal solution to 30% ammonia. This worked for me but experiment for yourself as you may need more or less ammomia. It does seem to take longer to dry with more ammonia. Good, bad, i will let you know later. EDIT: It does not require a lot of surfactant maybe only 5ml per 100ml.
Now apply your base coat, this will be the main colour of the finish depending if you candy or not.
once dry there are a number of ways to proceed.
you can clear over the base as this gives a good surface to key up heavily in many directions. This way you can almost control the forms of the crystal.
Or you can key/scuff up the base coat itself OR you can just leave the base coat. It is up to your self to try this out.
Now apply the the crystal, i just pour it on as it is cheap as if you make it your self £2 ish a pint. Others use a spray bottle to apply it. Either way is good. A thin layer of solution will give a thin crystal form and a thick layer will give a thick crystal form.
Now leave to air dry in a warm room for large finger fromations or force dry for tighter smaller formations. I prefer air dry.
As it dries you will see the crystals form, quite cool to watch the first few times.
Let it dry out fully about 15 mins to an hour depending on the temp and thickness of application.
Now it is time for the contrast coat, i use black as it seems to be more dramatic. This MUST be applied in a light dusting fashion, NO heavy application as it will melt the crytsal and make it difficult to remove later.
1 light coat will give a shallow 3d contrast and a few light coats will give a deeper 3d contrast. For the best result i found that NOT applying even coats of black is best for giving varing depth of finish. Once the top/contrast(black for me) coat has dried you can then remove the crystals by washing with water and a soft cloth, try not to rub to hard. If the crystal is being stubborn to remove then LIGHTLY wet sand with 1500/2000 grit.
Now that it is clear of crystal and dried you can apply your top coats be they candys, pearls or just clear coat.
EDIT: Raising the point of safety when mixing chemicals, I believe that you should only attempt this if you have researched the materials you are using and have COMMON SENSE I doubt the mixes i'm using are explosive or toxic (other than usual ammonia vapour and spay) but remember to be careful.
Urea reacts with calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite to form the explosive nitrogen trichloride. It is incompatible with sodium nitrite, gallium perchlorate, strong oxidizing agents (permanganate, dichromate, nitrate, chlorine), phosphorus pentachloride, nitrosyl perchlorate, titanium tetrachloride and chromyl chloride. PLEASE AVOID THESE WHEN MIXING WITH WATER!!!!!
It does contain ammonia which smells bad and is irritable . Ammonia solutions should not be mixed with halogens( fluorine (F), chlorine (Cl), bromine (Br), iodine (I), astatine (At), as toxic and/or explosive products are formed. The urea/ammonia mix is good for your plants........but if for some reason you mix it with bleach (one of the 1st things i thought of doing) then it can release a chlorine gas which it bad bad bad (seriously)
just a quick note that the crazer effect that alsa sell can be replicated using fine rubbing compound over a base coat then contrast coated washed down and top coated/cleared
Might not be as good as the crazer but well worth the effort to try. Another cool effect is the marbilizer from HOK (house of kolor)
Note that all of theses effects need excrement loads of clear coats to build up the layers as they are tactlie finishes. Lots of clear allow you to wet sand and polish and create fantastic and unique paint effects.
Another note is that the crystal finish is organic in style and almost impossible to create the exact same effect. So it is best to do large adjacent panels at the same time as the air flow and temp will be the same.
Any way perhaps that will make it easier for ppl to grasp if they are just browsing the site.
Sorry, for once no picsmaybe when i do my lid [8D]"
So, if someone will be playing with the ratios and different components it would be cool if you'd share you results here
Will try this using only wb paints, I bet you that it will work!
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
Nada
Air-Valve Autobot!
If your talking clear intercoat... That will serve zero purpose.
The crystals have to be washed /sanded off. You can use a tinted intercoat which will give a contrast color.
You can try and spray waterbased direct to the urea, Many have. As I stated you could dry spray and sort of make it work, at the risk of loss of adhesion. And likely washing off far more than you want
Nada
Air-Valve Autobot!
Thanks Vlad. I made this video because Meesh had a problem with one of the manufacturers product... figured it would be helpful.@Nada it's the best video I've seen to the date
@MarcosD have you found the answers in this video?
Tried to find the file, but there was no luck. But good news, I've found the link bookmarked. The thread was started there back in the beginning of 2007. Twelve years ago.
http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/showthread.php?1028-Making-a-crystal-effect-solution
Copypasting the info here for the reason sometimes forums stop their existing.
Full text.
"Making a crystal effect solution.
I know this has been kind of put in another post but here is my experience with the crystal paint effect.
ok, the crystal solution can be bought from alsa corp but it works out at £80 a quart to get it over here but will no doubt be cheaper for you guys. For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
For the various effects you use different amounts of solution, mostly lots.
There are 4 ingredients to the solution.
Water
Urea
ammonia (not so sure if this is an additive or just present in the urea)
neocryl (an acrylic copolymer used as some kind of wetting agent, it is in the form of neocryl bt-175 and this is made from 58% water 40% acrylic copolymer and 2% sodium lauryl sulphate(this is common in nearly all liquid soaps,used partly as a thickener. Anyway, not something that can be bought over the counter so i have looked for alternatives).
Water from your tap (i will try bottled water and deionised water as well), ammonia from hardware store and Urea from a cleaning supply store or maybe a garden center. Urea is also present in cleaning agents as well as fertiliser and is easily available in prill form (small balls/granules)
Im sure that where you get your Urea from will supply ammonia.
Now you need to create a saturated solution. To do this i got a pint of water and added the urea untill it stopped disolving in the water. Then i heated the solution in a pot and added more urea until it stopped disolving. About room temp is all that is needed. I found that if too hot the urea will decompose and will not work. No point in adding urea to boiling water as it takes up to 7kg per liter and most of it will reform when the solution cools. I believe that the re crystalised urea will be a better form with less impurities, maybe better to use but i'm not sure. At 20*c water will take about 1kg per liter of urea.
This was good enough a process to create a saturated solution(a chemist might have the right way to do it, so feel free to inform us )
Ok that is the crystal solution ready but if you pour this over fresh dry paint it will bead on the surface. To stop this we add the ammonia, this seems to act as a wetting agent to break water tension and allow the solution to pool over the surface and stick a tiny bit better. I will experiment with other surfactants, washing up liquid,washing powder. This is why i think the alsa stuff has the neocryl bt-175
I used 70% crystal solution to 30% ammonia. This worked for me but experiment for yourself as you may need more or less ammomia. It does seem to take longer to dry with more ammonia. Good, bad, i will let you know later. EDIT: It does not require a lot of surfactant maybe only 5ml per 100ml.
Now apply your base coat, this will be the main colour of the finish depending if you candy or not.
once dry there are a number of ways to proceed.
you can clear over the base as this gives a good surface to key up heavily in many directions. This way you can almost control the forms of the crystal.
Or you can key/scuff up the base coat itself OR you can just leave the base coat. It is up to your self to try this out.
Now apply the the crystal, i just pour it on as it is cheap as if you make it your self £2 ish a pint. Others use a spray bottle to apply it. Either way is good. A thin layer of solution will give a thin crystal form and a thick layer will give a thick crystal form.
Now leave to air dry in a warm room for large finger fromations or force dry for tighter smaller formations. I prefer air dry.
As it dries you will see the crystals form, quite cool to watch the first few times.
Let it dry out fully about 15 mins to an hour depending on the temp and thickness of application.
Now it is time for the contrast coat, i use black as it seems to be more dramatic. This MUST be applied in a light dusting fashion, NO heavy application as it will melt the crytsal and make it difficult to remove later.
1 light coat will give a shallow 3d contrast and a few light coats will give a deeper 3d contrast. For the best result i found that NOT applying even coats of black is best for giving varing depth of finish. Once the top/contrast(black for me) coat has dried you can then remove the crystals by washing with water and a soft cloth, try not to rub to hard. If the crystal is being stubborn to remove then LIGHTLY wet sand with 1500/2000 grit.
Now that it is clear of crystal and dried you can apply your top coats be they candys, pearls or just clear coat.
EDIT: Raising the point of safety when mixing chemicals, I believe that you should only attempt this if you have researched the materials you are using and have COMMON SENSE I doubt the mixes i'm using are explosive or toxic (other than usual ammonia vapour and spay) but remember to be careful.
Urea reacts with calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite to form the explosive nitrogen trichloride. It is incompatible with sodium nitrite, gallium perchlorate, strong oxidizing agents (permanganate, dichromate, nitrate, chlorine), phosphorus pentachloride, nitrosyl perchlorate, titanium tetrachloride and chromyl chloride. PLEASE AVOID THESE WHEN MIXING WITH WATER!!!!!
It does contain ammonia which smells bad and is irritable . Ammonia solutions should not be mixed with halogens( fluorine (F), chlorine (Cl), bromine (Br), iodine (I), astatine (At), as toxic and/or explosive products are formed. The urea/ammonia mix is good for your plants........but if for some reason you mix it with bleach (one of the 1st things i thought of doing) then it can release a chlorine gas which it bad bad bad (seriously)
just a quick note that the crazer effect that alsa sell can be replicated using fine rubbing compound over a base coat then contrast coated washed down and top coated/cleared
Might not be as good as the crazer but well worth the effort to try. Another cool effect is the marbilizer from HOK (house of kolor)
Note that all of theses effects need excrement loads of clear coats to build up the layers as they are tactlie finishes. Lots of clear allow you to wet sand and polish and create fantastic and unique paint effects.
Another note is that the crystal finish is organic in style and almost impossible to create the exact same effect. So it is best to do large adjacent panels at the same time as the air flow and temp will be the same.
Any way perhaps that will make it easier for ppl to grasp if they are just browsing the site.
Sorry, for once no picsmaybe when i do my lid [8D]"
So, if someone will be playing with the ratios and different components it would be cool if you'd share you results here
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