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steve b
Guest
hi all,new to the forum and airbrushing.can anybody tell me the reason for my iwata eclipse hp cs making dots when I push the lever forward to shut off the paint flow?greatful for any information its driving me mad.
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steve b
Guest
It’s because you stop moving
Air on:start moving. Pull back for paint: air off: stop moving.
It soon becomes habit.
In the meantime
How about you head across to the introduction and provide some basic info
View attachment 57115
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steve b
Guest
hi jackEb,thanks for reply but when I press the air on and pull the lever back slightly to start the paint flow no paint comes out then when I push the lever forward just before the needle seats I get a small burst of paint then it stops causing a dot.
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steve b
Guest
ive got an iwata eclipse hp cs and use createx paints.
It could be as straight forward as the paint is too thick. I e found it can behave in very strange ways. A test is to add quite a lot of reducer, day 10 drops of reducer to 1 drop of paint, give it a mix and try that. If things have improved then it’s a pretty safe bet the mixture was too thick.
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Createx ‘airbrush colors’ requires larger nozzle (.5) and higher psi (50ish)
For ‘wicked’ or ‘illustration start at 1:1 paint reducer at ~25psi
SiRoxx could be right, just a case of paint way to thick.
I assume you’re using 4012 high performance reducer.... water can make it gloopy, straining doesn’t hurt either .
For ‘wicked’ or ‘illustration start at 1:1 paint reducer at ~25psi
SiRoxx could be right, just a case of paint way to thick.
I assume you’re using 4012 high performance reducer.... water can make it gloopy, straining doesn’t hurt either .
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steve b
Guest
thanks for info I've been running my pressure no higher than 30p.s.i so i'll turn it up and try that,i am using reducer and not water,thanks again.
So would I be right in thinking you are using ‘airbrush colors’? They’re designed for textiles, but if you reduce at around 1:3 (paint : reducer) or even more reducer then you can have the psi at a lower level.
Use the base line of 1:1 @25psi and add more reducer until it’s spraying well. You will however need more passes to achieve the appropriate colour saturation.
It’s a steep learning curve but if you are willing to listen and learn then we are all willing to help
Use the base line of 1:1 @25psi and add more reducer until it’s spraying well. You will however need more passes to achieve the appropriate colour saturation.
It’s a steep learning curve but if you are willing to listen and learn then we are all willing to help
Hi Steve
What airbrush are you using ?
What paints are you using?
Most time it is dried paint build up in the nozzle not allowing the needle to set all the way that causes this issue.
If you are using water based paint I suggest using some 5619 restorer made by createx http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer&cat=690 not only can you use it over and over again by filtering the small amount you need for soaking the nozzle but I have had my bottle for over 10 years so it is a wise investment.
Never soak anything in restorer that has rubber on it. make sure you remover all the rubber parts prior to soaking.
never feel you have to buy a new airbrush due to issues you have with your current one mainly due to you may find you have the same issues after using the new one for a while. Learning when you have a clog, or if you needle seal is too loose , or even the aircap is not making a good seal allowing air to pass by it comes with just learning everything you can about the airbrush.
There is a lot of information that can be found here with the search feature.
What airbrush are you using ?
What paints are you using?
Most time it is dried paint build up in the nozzle not allowing the needle to set all the way that causes this issue.
If you are using water based paint I suggest using some 5619 restorer made by createx http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer&cat=690 not only can you use it over and over again by filtering the small amount you need for soaking the nozzle but I have had my bottle for over 10 years so it is a wise investment.
Never soak anything in restorer that has rubber on it. make sure you remover all the rubber parts prior to soaking.
never feel you have to buy a new airbrush due to issues you have with your current one mainly due to you may find you have the same issues after using the new one for a while. Learning when you have a clog, or if you needle seal is too loose , or even the aircap is not making a good seal allowing air to pass by it comes with just learning everything you can about the airbrush.
There is a lot of information that can be found here with the search feature.
here is what confuse me with createx classics for a long time now:So would I be right in thinking you are using ‘airbrush colors’? They’re designed for textiles, but if you reduce at around 1:3 (paint : reducer) or even more reducer then you can have the psi at a lower level.
Use the base line of 1:1 @25psi and add more reducer until it’s spraying well. You will however need more passes to achieve the appropriate colour saturation.
It’s a steep learning curve but if you are willing to listen and learn then we are all willing to help
Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors may both be reduced with 4012 High Performance Reducer. Reduction amounts vary between Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors. Generally, Wicked Colors may be reduced in much greater amounts (up to
100% per volume) compared with Createx Airbrush Colors which are not recommended for reduction past 25% per volume to maintain an adequate resin-load.
https://creatextech.com/pdf/app-guides/Createx-Colors-Textile-Application-Guide.pdf
Createx classics is pain to spray. At least to me... I would rather start with wicked. Much less tip dry and wicked flows much better.
